VE HVAC System Info

[VFSV6FORME]

Gosh the planets must be aligning for the pair of us mate because I'm just beginning to have this issue myself! The dreaded clicky HVAC wiper module.

Worst part is too is that I have an aftermarket headunit in my car so the calibration process is going to be... Interesting, to say the least.

Yes Dont forget to turn your dial to the FEET ONLY before you turn your engine off and lock the car or leave it unlocked in your house and when you come back you turn the ignition on, lever the Electronics to do it bit and tell you the system id OK then start the car, few seconds later the Air con is ON then turn the selector from feet to my face. By the way I dont rush when I put the key in and turn the Ignition on, I let the car check the car is OK then start the car

 

[krusing]

The Article talks about the Puller Fans,
These are the Radiator Fans,
Well, GM have forked up on these !!!

Being I had a replacement radiator to install, as the original Radiator started weeping at the rear of it, at the bottom,
hence why I could always smell glycol after I switch the car off,
I sort of figured, the Car has done a few K's now [197,200 k/s], and the fans pull a bit of heat through the radiator,
and when its running at normal temp,
Keeping in mind the Fans will still be spinning with the wind/air flowing through the front of the car while driving

I recently noticed a vibration when idling and the Fans were on, and it also appeared only when the A/C was on,
And when I turn the car off, I could feel this vibration slowing/winding down.

With much manually diagnosing, I found it was the Radiator Fan motor on the Drivers side was the cause of the noise and vibration,

So I ordered the 2 Fans, [as another JC member mentioned a little while back they are still available]
While I was replacing the Radiator, I also replaced the Fans Motors,
All went back together perfectly and no leaks and is nice and quiet again.

Me being a bit inquisitive,
I decided to pull the faulty/noisy motor apart to see if I can replace the Bearings, simple job, a couple of small bearing,
WRONG !!!
Well the front Bearing is replaceable, however the back bearing is Bronze Bearing, and that was the one causing the noise,
They have 4 Brushes, so they are a very efficient motor, but the Rear bearing is the failure of these,
Being they are $170 ea Delco Part# 19355766 they are the same for Both Sides, VE Series 2 and VF Series 1 & 2
*** VE Series 1 and VE Series 2 Fan motors ARE NOT THE SAME ***
But
The Fans Blades are Different, there is a Left and Right one,
so if you replace the Motors, write on one of the Blades in Black Texta "L or R" Before dis-assembling the units,
which ever one you wish to mark accordingly.
Also they are not really made to pull apart, they have expansion pressing to hold them together, but such a waste, because they are well made.

Sorry for the Rant, but it may ease some one else's frustration if trying diagnose a fan vibration.

 

[Skylarking]

@krusing, interesting findings but sadly it’s typical designed for obsolescence manufacture.

[rant]
Cost wise there is two tenths of fcuk all in cost to design and manufacture motors so they can be disassembled and repaired. It’s a no brainer to use replaceable roller bearing or bronze bushes throughout.... but it takes brain effort to make them last just past the factory warranty...

It’s much smarter from the consumer and environmental perspectives to design the motors so that they are common through the manufacturers vehicles. But the manufacture probably carries a slightly higher per unit price by not using a quality commodity component via their purposeful designed onscolescense mindset.

The payback for the manufacturer is that as the vehicle ages and parts become unavailable or extreamly expensive, people simply buy another vehicle because of all the designed in failures...

In my mind, a 10 yo product, heck even a 20 yo product should be robustly designed and continue to work with minor servicing of for example bearings and brushes... but tr6 doing that when the modern **** is made to be unrepairable and the only option is to bump it in the bin and buy new... to keep the factories churning...

So, whenever there is some news report about the environment and how we need to do xyz to save the planet, i think STFU... don’t talk to me about the environment until designed obsolescence is considered immoral and made illegal...
[/rant]

 

[J_D 2.0]

Good point!
Series 1 VE V8's were known for throwing the A/C belts off.

So that explains why my A/C belt was pretty much brand new but my accessories belt was cracked to buggery when I went to replace them both last weekend! At least I bought both belts so I’ve got a new A/C belt for when the one that’s on there now let’s go!

 

[lazyc]

So ... I removed the evaporator this morning, saw a 20 odd minute video that did the deed via the glovebox.
Pulled the plastic across the windscreen and all the plastic for the fresh air/cabin filter. This gave full access to the tx valve and the two bolts that hold the fan duct in place.

Pulled the glovebox and left side radio trims, removed various clips for looms and looms, ac controller, unscrewed the 4 screws that mate the fan to the duct.
A plastic clip over the ac lines from tx to the evaporator. The box just needs a little encouragement and it's out...
The evaporator slides out ..

Couldn't justify pulling the dash.
Took an hour. Probably could have left some of the plastic in place but wanted to tidy the show up and replace some clips.
So. Long story short its not a $1000 job.
Took a few photos but they really don't show a lot
10mm under tx and 10mm to the right of air intake need let go. Under dash. The Phillips screws from fan to duct need to go. And the looms ..

 

[Fu Manchu]

I can’t get my head around how. I looked at this when screwing it all back together and it wasn’t going to be possible??

 

[lazyc]

I can’t get my head around how. I looked at this when screwing it all back together and it wasn’t going to be possible??

I also had my doubts but the video gave me the push to try.
With the plastic under the bonnet out it really opens up the work space.
Under the dash was pretty basic really,

Without filling an ac thread with with crap I haven't found an impossible job yet.

 

[J_D 2.0]

So ... I removed the evaporator this morning, saw a 20 odd minute video that did the deed via the glovebox.
Pulled the plastic across the windscreen and all the plastic for the fresh air/cabin filter. This gave full access to the tx valve and the two bolts that hold the fan duct in place.

Pulled the glovebox and left side radio trims, removed various clips for looms and looms, ac controller, unscrewed the 4 screws that mate the fan to the duct.
A plastic clip over the ac lines from tx to the evaporator. The box just needs a little encouragement and it's out...
The evaporator slides out ..

Couldn't justify pulling the dash.
Took an hour. Probably could have left some of the plastic in place bit wanted to tidy the show up and replace some clips.
So. Long story short its not a $1000 job.
Took a few photos but they really don't show a lot
10mm under tx and 10mm to the right of air intake need let go. Under dash. The Phillips screws from fan to duct need to go. And the looms ..

So what I’m taking from this is it’s impossible to get at the evaporator to clean it off? I wouldn’t mind getting at mine to manually clean it off as it smells fusty when you turn the aircon on or off. I’ve already tried using one of those aerosol aircon cleaners that you just bomb the car with but it didn’t do anything substantial.

 

[lazyc]

I did hit mine with the compressor it did nothing.... I used a brush and air that helped, but I don't see it being a easy job, it really needs another filter from the recirculation port ...

 

[Fu Manchu]

I’m going to go back through my photos to double check through. I recall a bracket that is screwed into the top that holds the evaporator pipes. I remember looking at it wondering how it could be reached without getting the whole lot out.