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VE - No crank, no central locking, no boot release in glove box, no power windows,

Nate74

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Hi All, 2 nights ago we used the car stereo while having a few social distancing drinks on our street with the neighbours, and alas it flattened the battery of our VE V6 Omega. Took the battery out the next day and charged it, fitted it and turned the key, no crank! then discovered the following so far

  1. No Crank
  2. Contact Dealer on the dash
  3. no power windows
  4. no central locking
  5. no stereo (aftermarket)
  6. no boot control on the key or in the glovebox (have to lower back seat and pull yellow cord)
  7. no fuel gauge and low fuel reading (it has half a tank)
It has a working
  1. Heater blower
  2. Taco
Things I have already done

  1. Tested Battery 12.6 volts
  2. Replaced battery from another car
  3. Cleaned and checked battery cables and wires
  4. Power to 3 fuse boxes and the alternator is good
  5. Checked all fuses etc
  6. Tried spare key
  7. Kicked the wheel and swore a lot

    Any ideas and help would and be appreciated :)
 
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Freddy Kruger

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Checked the fuses on the positive battery terminal? Seems a few people (including myself) are accidentally blowing one of them while working on the battery.
 

Nate74

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Checked the fuses on the positive battery terminal? Seems a few people (including myself) are accidentally blowing one of them while working on the battery.

Cheers Freddy - Yes I have visually tested and checked the volts on each end, they are good
 

Skylarking

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Odd problem indeed o_O

Being an after market radio/amp, did the music start to crackle late in the evening or simply cut out?

As is, the problem could be anything but I’d look into the wiring associated with the aftermarket install as something may have fried. Aftermarket wiring can sometimes be done with rather poor quality and or cut into power in unconventional ways to make the job cheap and easy for the installer.

Hidden inline fuses that pinch power from something else (and power the original device and radio through that hidden inline fuse) are obviously problematic as their existence is often forgotten about.

If you have an OBD2 scan tool, can be had for $15 on eBay or $70 at jaycar, does it return any error codes? At least you’d be able to verify that the the ECU boots up and talks to the rest of the car via OBD ;)
 

Nate74

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I had a mate come round today with good scan software, it ended up being the immobilizer even though there was no light displaying for it. after getting it running it ran like a bag of assholes until we cleaned air intake codes, he also found a way of clearing the ABS and ESP warnings that had been there for the last 2 months and had been to 2 different shops for, it was a steering wheel alignment sensor......

Thanks for the help and I hope this helps someone else in the future
 

Nate74

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Odd problem indeed o_O

Being an after market radio/amp, did the music start to crackle late in the evening or simply cut out?

As is, the problem could be anything but I’d look into the wiring associated with the aftermarket install as something may have fried. Aftermarket wiring can sometimes be done with rather poor quality and or cut into power in unconventional ways to make the job cheap and easy for the installer.

Hidden inline fuses that pinch power from something else (and power the original device and radio through that hidden inline fuse) are obviously problematic as their existence is often forgotten about.

If you have an OBD2 scan tool, can be had for $15 on eBay or $70 at jaycar, does it return any error codes? At least you’d be able to verify that the the ECU boots up and talks to the rest of the car via OBD ;)

We found the problem it was the immobilizer, I will check the wiring of that stereo this weekend as I have seen some dodgy installs before, thanks for your help
 

MYVESSV8

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great to have a reply from people who have sorted things out, the more info for everyone
 
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