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VE on the Cheap, Well Hope so

VFSV6FORME

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Same thing goes for the VF. To Change my rear Tail light with LED's I had to lower/remove my rear bumper. Well at least I had to remove one item to get the one to be removed.
But the VE to remove the bottom half of the Air Cleaner to get at the oil sensor you must remove the Air Cleaner, now that ok but to get the air cleaner off one of the section of the air cleaner is hiding under that battery post so you have move it by loosen it and to do that you have to unclip the vent above it to push it up. Actually I was surprised I did not have to remove the BONNET!! LOL.
It would have been easy for holden to re design the Air Cleaner so that lug was not as long. Now I cut, Filed it, and look good and if you have to ever remove that air cleaner again it will slide past the Pos Battery post. YEH!! (PS: will have to look for the VF to see if some have changed to the better.)
 

Skylarking

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^^ haha, momentum from ACCC who helped to create the problem to begin with.

I'll believe things are better down under when i see full manuals available for sale for a reasonable price.
Oddly, GM service manuals (printed & PDF) are available in the USA for the Chevy SS here (but i'm not sure it's a full on covers everything manual).

PS, thanks @VS 5.0 for the links, especially the last one - interesting reading ;)
 

VFSV6FORME

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Well I went to 3 Panel beaters (4th tomorrow)so I can get quotes for the VE replacement of the quarter panel and as Soon a I say I want to do the Painting myself to save money they never bothered to give me a quote via a email. This is all about MONEY as most of them Charge DOUBLE per hour for Spay Painting compared to the Panel beating itself. Now I had one interesting Conversation with one owner of a shop and he told me doing any VE or VF they are sort of forced to replace the LOT from the front to the rear panel Part Number 92288051 (google it) thats in US Dollars, but some panel beaters buy a Complete panel to Fix VF but not likely to fix VE because they are not worth it and cut the quarter panel off and keep the rest. The utes are the worst to do.
Now If you do this you effect the structural integrity of the side of the car if not done correctly and this is the reason why so many VF (not VE, as not worth doing it on a VE) gets written OFF because of the issue.
http://www.flagstaffautobody.com.au...ase-studies/ve-commodore-oem-side-replacement
It is Hard to get a SKIN ONLY and if you can get it it will be the easiest way to do it.
I Asked, Why cant you Panel beat it out then you wont be playing with the structural of the Car.
To much time to do a good job. He said you need a OLD SCHOOL Panel beaters than can pull , stretch, shrink that panel , (HELP this is the third time that someone has mention OLD SCHOOL PANEL BEATER).
I asked him where do I find a OLD SCHOOL PANEL Beater.
He said most of them are Gone Now (like my Mate as the Nicky, Putty nearly killed him)
Interesting!.
Not giving up that easy.
 

EYY

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Very unlikely to find anybody willing to take on the job.

Proper panel beaters are used to working with panel steel (mild steel) which is relatively easy to work with. Newer vehicles use a much thinner, harder metal which has very different mechanical properties to the steel used in classic cars for example.

Once you have a crease, that's the point where it'll crumple again in the event of an accident. You don't really want a partially collapsed or compromised panel in that case. You really need to have the panel removed and replaced.
 

Skylarking

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...I asked him where do I find a OLD SCHOOL PANEL Beater...
They are all retired, too old to work or likely dead. So plenty at the cemetery, that’d be your best bet I’d say :oops:

Jokes aside, authorities have over time developed a hard line with respect to vehicle repairs since some 30 years ago it wasn’t odd to see cut and shut repaired cars in two halves after a mild crash bus to the many suspect repairers about.

Now, vehicle’s must be repaired using manufacturers repair methods (which benefits their spare parts sales). In cases like the VF where the whole side pressing is a one piece structural component, obviously the manufacturers would mandate that the component is removed and replaced in whole, even if only mildly damaged. To ensure repairs are done appropriately, complex processes have been put in place.

That is why when any vehicle is in a crash and an insurance claim is made, they are categorised and the condition marked in a national database. In some cases, what seems mild damage can reflect as a “statutory writeoff” within the database and that VIN will never be allowed to be repaired and registered. If the condition was not structural, then it may be classified as “repairable writeoff” and the repair process must be documented and authenticated by a business registered by the authorities before the vehicle is allowed to be registered and thus back on the road. Concessions had to be made to allow hail damaged vehicles to have PDR repairs done without the costly repair certification.

There are further classifications, for example, vehicles dunked in the ocean can’t even have their parts sold through a wrecker (I think they must be crushed).

As the processes are more complex when insurance companies are involved, panel beaters have taken advantage of it all and even for simple repairs they can be required to bo more simply due to the bureaucracies involves. Sadly this can carry over to private jobs.

Having said that, if your car wasn’t put through an insurance claim and as such no classification of the damaged was documented with the registration authorities, then just pull the panel out as best as possible, hopefully we’ll enough so a thin spray bog will make it look smick once painted up. Your mate should be able to advise.

If it has been marked in the database, check out the process before you start any repair as photos and documentation may be needed to have it certified and reregistered o_O
 

VFSV6FORME

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Very unlikely to find anybody willing to take on the job.

Proper panel beaters are used to working with panel steel (mild steel) which is relatively easy to work with. Newer vehicles use a much thinner, harder metal which has very different mechanical properties to the steel used in classic cars for example.

Once you have a crease, that's the point where it'll crumple again in the event of an accident. You don't really want a partially collapsed or compromised panel in that case. You really need to have the panel removed and replaced.

Yes I know the Difference between the NEW and OLD cars. I think Holden change the structure of the metal around the VL series
 

VFSV6FORME

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They are all retired, too old to work or likely dead. So plenty at the cemetery, that’d be your best bet I’d say :oops:

Jokes aside, authorities have over time developed a hard line with respect to vehicle repairs since some 30 years ago it wasn’t odd to see cut and shut repaired cars in two halves after a mild crash bus to the many suspect repairers about.

Now, vehicle’s must be repaired using manufacturers repair methods (which benefits their spare parts sales). In cases like the VF where the whole side pressing is a one piece structural component, obviously the manufacturers would mandate that the component is removed and replaced in whole, even if only mildly damaged. To ensure repairs are done appropriately, complex processes have been put in place.

That is why when any vehicle is in a crash and an insurance claim is made, they are categorised and the condition marked in a national database. In some cases, what seems mild damage can reflect as a “statutory writeoff” within the database and that VIN will never be allowed to be repaired and registered. If the condition was not structural, then it may be classified as “repairable writeoff” and the repair process must be documented and authenticated by a business registered by the authorities before the vehicle is allowed to be registered and thus back on the road. Concessions had to be made to allow hail damaged vehicles to have PDR repairs done without the costly repair certification.

There are further classifications, for example, vehicles dunked in the ocean can’t even have their parts sold through a wrecker (I think they must be crushed).

As the processes are more complex when insurance companies are involved, panel beaters have taken advantage of it all and even for simple repairs they can be required to bo more simply due to the bureaucracies involves. Sadly this can carry over to private jobs.

Having said that, if your car wasn’t put through an insurance claim and as such no classification of the damaged was documented with the registration authorities, then just pull the panel out as best as possible, hopefully we’ll enough so a thin spray bog will make it look smick once painted up. Your mate should be able to advise.

If it has been marked in the database, check out the process before you start any repair as photos and documentation may be needed to have it certified and reregistered o_O

I have one GOOD quote so far from a reputable repairer To replace the the damaged panel with a new one, use The rack to squared the car, R and R the rear window and give me the car in undercoat its $2850. Now I think they quote high as they have not seen the car it self.
Yes I have done a REVs and repairable Write off check and the VIN and Number Plate said nothing found.
 

VFSV6FORME

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Forgot to say the PPSR is GOOD and the NEVDIS (not recorded as written off) Also the REV Checks are the same so by this it can be repaired.
I look for a price on this car at Car Sales.com for a VE 2009 60th Anniversary (Private and Car Yard) with around 156 k on the clock and I found a lot of them. Price averaged around $7000 for a 180k car. some more than $7000 and some less than $7000 but with over 200, 000 on the clock
 
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Calaber

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Get that repairer to see the car to determine if his quote still stands, and if it does take it. Make no mistake, that is not a simple or basic repair job and at 2850, I'd be stoked.
 
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