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VE SS Standard speaker sizes

bigdavepink

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Hi All

I have a 2008 VE SS fitted with the stock HU and speakers.....basically it's all a pile of crap and arguably the worst thing about these cars. I am happy to keep the stock HU as the aftermarket DIN E adapter kits look cheap and nasty and I am happy enough to use a line level converter to drive the amps.

What I would like to know is the standard speaker sizes fitted to this model as I would like to put some nice components in up front and something decent in the rear doors as well as adding a couple of speakers for the rear parcel shelf.......all to be fitted without chopping out new mounting apertures.

The rear parcel shelf appears to have apertures pre-cut (plated and spot welded over) for 6 or 6.5 inch speakers (which I can measure to get correct sizes), the dash top has a pair of approx. 2" tweeters (and that stupid centre speaker which will be disconnected completely). I can also measure the tweeters exactly, without any dismantling.

Does anyone know what size is fitted in the front and rear doors?

I could just tear off a door panel and take a look but its so much easier to post a question on here to you guys who have probably already done this

cheers

Dave
 

AutoSlick

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You should be able to mount 6.5" speakers using a spacer. If there is a choice between 6" and 6.5" the 6.5" would be the better option as a rule of thumb since most of the better models in a range tend to be 6.5". That said, with an appropriate install, the correct use of midbass/smaller subwoofers and some good tuning, its possible to achieve even better results with smaller drivers such as 5.25" and 4".

I can't offer you too much help with fitting information as I leave that kind of work to my partnered installers. I can offer you help with hardware selection when you start looking. Check out my site if you have some time, I've got plenty of nice splits available to check out.

Either way sorry for not being very helpful with your questions. Good luck with the answers, we have some very informative people on here.

Welcome to the forum by the way.
 
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holdenboy

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Yep they are 6", 6.5s will fit without too much hassle.
I would suggest upgrading the front splits (obviously including the tweeters in the dash) and just some coaxials for the rear doors. Personally i wouldnt bother with the rear parcel shelf speakers, you want the majority of the sound coming from the front speakers, if you were to upgrade the rears and add another set to the parcel shelf it would easily draw the sound stage rearwards. Ideally you want 90+% of the sound to come in front of you, like youre at a concert. But its your car and im only giving my advice ;)
 

Luke0011

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You should be able to mount 6.5" speakers using a spacer. If its not 6.5" its generally not worth having anyway.

Joe seriously think about it, not worth having a speaker if its not at least a 6.5 inch. Explain why then do audio engineers and science tell us that within the frequency range where most of the sound we hear is produced most accurately comes from a 5.25 inch loudspeaker. Personally 6.5 inch speakers have a poor reproduction of vocals and also the higher kick we hear in a drum beat. Not worth ... come on mate we all love the bass from a 6.5 but please not worth having...
 

AutoSlick

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Joe seriously think about it, not worth having a speaker if its not at least a 6.5 inch. Explain why then do audio engineers and science tell us that within the frequency range where most of the sound we hear is produced most accurately comes from a 5.25 inch loudspeaker. Personally 6.5 inch speakers have a poor reproduction of vocals and also the higher kick we hear in a drum beat. Not worth ... come on mate we all love the bass from a 6.5 but please not worth having...

Hehehe, you read too far into that one.

What I was saying was that if you compare 6" and 6.5" most of the better models are generally 6.5".

What your saying is correct though heheh.

Merry xmas by the way :D
 

Luke0011

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no didnt read to far into it at all, being that you are a retailer its good to be technically minded as this will result in getting a big sale or eating baked beans at the dole line....... Merry Xmas
 

bigdavepink

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Thanks for the help, very useful.

First mod I did was to disconnect that silly center speaker....instant improvement for 5 minutes work.

I then chose to go with 6 inch units all round in the cabin to keep it simple and accordingly have fitted some Kicker DS600 Coaxials in the rear doors and will be picking up some Kicker DS600.2 components for the front with a second set of DS600 Coaxials in the parcel shelf (only coz the car already has apertures for them and only once I figure out how to get the rear seats out to gain access to said apertures......anyone?).

The boot will have 3 Coustic amps (321QE x 2 + a 600SE) and a pair of Kicker C12's in custom ported enclosures with a 2.5 Farad Cap on the supply wires.

The Coustic amps are nice and provide both Line inputs and Outputs so can allegedly be chained together.....I am just waiting on advice from Coustic tech support to see whether they advise chaining the 3 amps RCA inputs or whether buying a decent Low Output Impedance LOC with capability to run three sets of outputs in parallel (without any signale degradation) is my better option.

I dont expect this setup will ever "blow the doors off" but I am pretty sure it will be a vast improvement over the stock system and for a shade over $1000 plus fitting time it wont break the bank either.
 

AutoSlick

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1. A Mod to the head unit to allow RCA outputs would be your best option. Greg from ASR can help you if your in NSW.

2. A LOC like my Cache COE6 only needs a single channel and can multiply that into two more pairs of channels which would make your life a bit easier when compared with chaining which may become complicated depending on how those amps work together. Shopping Secure - Car Audio Specialists - Caché coe6

3. 3 Amps? Going with 2 would make your life so much easier imho. Getting rear speakers and an amplifier for them should have really been the last priority when your on such a tight budget. 2 Amps would mean you could connect fronts to front and subs to rear and use the fader as a sub control. It would also still be possible to add another amplifier at a later date if the COE6 was installed since it would have a spare set of RCA outputs.

4. A cap? I personally think they're useless. Install your system and see if you need one. And if it turns out you do need one, get a new battery instead.
 
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