VE SSV Redline - Cold Start Issues

[scrano]

Hi, I'm hoping that someone might be able to tell me what might be causing my 2011 VE SSV to sputter when it starts cold in the morning, because I'm running out of ideas.

The car has just been serviced a few days ago, and I've just had the battery replaced a little over a week ago with a much better battery than the stock one, which when tested showed it was on its way out, so I've put a Supercharge MF66H in there instead, which is rated at 750 CCA's, and when I had it serviced the other day I asked my mechanic if it could need new plugs, but he said that it shouldn't because the iridium plugs have lifespan of around 90,000 km's before they're due to be replaced.

He tested it for any tripped error codes, which there were none, and gave it good going over to see if he could find the issue, but couldn't find it, so he put a bottle of injector cleaner in it, and said that thought that should do the trick, but I'm still having the same issues, and I'm at a loss as to what's going on.

Can anyone tell me whether they've had a similar issue, and what the cause was, and whether the plugs could be the culprit, and possibly need changing now?

I'd really appreciate any help or suggestions guys, so thanks in advance

 

[showtime9]

I have the same problem with my LS3 but I'm thinking/hoping it's my starter motor

 

[MYVESSV8]

how many klm's, is it struggling to start-poor turning over, could be starter, also the positive red post is a joint where the cable goes under the engine, iridium plugs, I change mine at 50,000, check leads are connected but this would show most of the time, what fuel you running,

 

[scrano]

I always run 98 octane, so I wouldn't think that it'd be the plugs fouling up, and and it only sputters the once, which is the very first start of the morning, and from then on its flawless.

Like I said earlier my mechanic serviced it the other day, and I would've thought that he would've checked any potential starter motor issues, especially considering I'd told him what it was doing, and also the fact that he owns the same model car, so I would like to think that he'd be familiar with any normal types of issues, or at least how to test any potential problems, but he might've missed something, and it's only just had its 70,000 km's service, so I'm wondering if it's plugs.

Is there a way that can test the starter motor to see if it's faulty, or on its way out? Surely the starter shouldn't fail under 100,000 km's at the very least, but maybe it's a well known issue with the VE SSV??

I did ask him specifically when I picked the car up whether he was able to find what the issue was, and he said he couldn't find anything, so he put injector cleaner in, and that he thought that should fix it, because I asked him directly if it needed new plugs, and he said with iridium plugs they don't need replacing until 90,000 km's

The positive post that runs under the engine, is it pretty easy to spot? I'm just wondering whether I might be able too check it, and also whether he's missed it??

 

[showtime9]

I changed my plugs too. Thinking it could be the problem but it didn't fix it

 

[Nitro_X]

Sputters?....do you mean it misfires? .....idles rough?

I assume this is after the car is left over night?
Is it consistent every morning or is it intermittent?
How long does the sputtering last?
Is the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on the dash coming on?
Do you drive it to work and leave it parked all day? If so, does it do the same thing for a cold start in the arvo when you finish work?

Cylinder misfire will give you trouble codes:
P0300 - P0308
or
P1380 / P1381

The top range Tech 2 scan tool (which is what Holden workshops use) can pull and diagnose a huge amount of data, it can even display a count or history of misfire events for every cylinder for the last 200 crankshaft revolutions. But only if a misfire or DTC is active.
Depending on the problem, the technician may need to have the scan tool connected while the problem is occurring or the ECU has to at least log a fault code to point the tech in the right direction.
The scan tool can even display which injector was turned off if a misfire is detected by the ECU.

High level misfires can also potentially damage the cats.

With a fault like you describe it would be very difficult or near impossible to find the cause (unless you got lucky) without a Tech 2 scan tool connected while the fault is occurring and a very knowledgeable or factory trained tech diagnosing.
Computer Engine management on these vehicles are very complex.

 

[scrano]

Yeah Nitro X it only seems to happen when the car has been sitting for an extended period, which is usually overnight, but it has happened once when I've driven it to work and it was sitting there all day and hadn't been started until I was ready to go home.

It doesn't seem like a rough idle, or like there's any unusual behavior other than that initial start, and then it kind of sputters about bit, almost as though the timing isn't quite right, or its not getting enough fuel or something, and then fires up, and it's fine.

I've seen people mention that plugs that are on there way out have been known to cause this exact same kind of behavior, and that replacing the plugs had fixed it.

Like I was saying, my mechanic has put a scan tool on it, and no error codes or anything had been tripped, and I'd like to think that he's probably got a pretty good Tech 2 scan tool, especially given that he owns a VE SSV himself, so I'd like to think that between his own personal knowledge and with the scan tool that he uses, that he should've been able to find the cause, but given that he says that the plugs shouldn't need changing until 90,000 km's + and it's only just done over 70,000 km's, I'm not sure whether it'd be them that's responsible.

I might just need to call him and say it's still happening, and hasn't improved at all, and book it back in, and say I want it checked again because that's basically the reason that I put it in to begin with, and that I want it checked again, and to put it in the workshop overnight, and hook a scan tool up before they start it in the morning, so they can see what it's doing as it starts up, because I honestly don't know what to make of it at all

 

[Nitro_X]

I might just need to call him and say it's still happening, and hasn't improved at all, and book it back in, and say I want it checked again because that's basically the reason that I put it in to begin with, and that I want it checked again, and to put it in the workshop overnight, and hook a scan tool up before they start it in the morning, so they can see what it's doing as it starts up, because I honestly don't know what to make of it at all

Sounds like a good plan.

re: the scan tools, not all Tech 2 scan tools are equal, and there are a few cheap clones out there (eBay etc), branded as Tech 2 but are actually cheap Asian knock-offs, you'd have to query him on the scanner he uses.
Apparently the genuine units are made in the US and have a manufacture date stamped inside the top.
Also many mechanics don't actually use a "Tech 2" branded scanner, there are a couple of manufacturers who make different platforms, eg: Snap On tools have a range.
You also need to pay a subscription fee for the genuine diagnostics and software updates etc.
I've also read that some cheap scanners available on eBay can actually create problems when connected and even damage the vehicles computer modules.

Tech 2 Pro Optima | Bosch Diagnostics
https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/home

Snap-on Australia - Diagnostics Platforms
Snap-on Australia - Diagnostics Software

 

[scrano]

Thanks Nitro X, I really appreciate it mate, seriously, because at least now I have a starting point

 

[Nitro_X]

ps
Recently I had a fault occur with my (MY07 SV6 sedan) where my traction control was randomly switching itself off & on multiple times while driving.
Two mechanics initially thought it was a faulty wheel speed sensor.
I also had the 'engine check light' come on permanently after fitting a K&N high flow air filter into the standard air intake box.

I discovered that Holden had released a software update, so thought I would try that and booked my car into my local Holden workshop so they could update the ECU software ($130) and it fixed both problems.