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Ve sv6 2011 engine noise

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by Burntout, Jun 25, 2014.

  1. Burntout

    Burntout New Member

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    Gday guys.
    So the other day i was driving my ute home and after about fifteen minutes i was taking off from the lights when she made a rather loud and heavy bang followed by what sounds like a ratchet noise (tick,tick,tick,etc) the car shut itself off and wouldn't start until a few hours later.
    There is no smoke when it starts up just the ticking noise but alot softer unless you give it some decent revs and the knocking noise gets louder and becomes constant.
    No engine light comes on or anything.
    Its got me fu#@ed what the noise is. Sounds more top end of the engine.

    Any thoughts or advice is much appreciated. Cheers
     
  2. torana355

    torana355 Member

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    Hard to tell, best to take it to a mechanic.
     
  3. Big-Al

    Big-Al Banned

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    Personally I would have got the car towed rather than trying to start it when it is clearly not running correctly.
    Mechanic will sort you out.
     
  4. Kermet

    Kermet New Member

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    I’ve got a similar problem. Mine is a 2012 series 2 SV6 with 150k on the clock. Was driving knock would come and go very minor never happened before, then all of a sudden a big pop from the engine then a knock knock knock sound, it’s constant with light smoke coming from left hand side of engine (passenger) Got told by several mechanics it was timing chain. Thought I’ll do it myself to save money.

    I got myself a timing chain kit, drained the old oil, Removed old chain compared old to new and the old chain was stretched by approx 30-40mm. Installed new one and did everything correct (rubbing my hands thinking this is it and had my fingers crossed) started it up and didn’t do **** same knocking as before didn’t do anything. Very pissed at this point. Decided to call roadside assist to come out, told him what I’ve done. Started it up for him knock knock knock. He plugged his scanner and came up as a P0300 random/multiple cylinder miss fire. He took spark plugs out and he said they were cooked. Unfortunately I couldn’t get one due to being late so had to get it the next day. Changed sparks from original shitty Holden ones to ngk platinum. Started it same thing, light smoke pouring from passenger side and knock knock knock. Looked under the car and noticed it was leaking oil roughly about where exhaust bolts on. Unfortunately that’s only an estimated guess. Has got me baffled and screaming. Has anybody come across this before or can assist into what the hell it could be.
     
  5. Skylarking

    Skylarking Well-Known Member

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    @Kermet don’t know what the problem may be but a stretched timing chain can jump the cam cog teeth. If the timing chain does jump cog teeth, timing goes out the window. Such can result in overheating and subsequent associated damage (including head gasket failure) or bent valves (I think V6 is an interference design but not sure). The type and amount of damage may dependon how bad the miss-timing has become.

    So before you removed your timing chain did you do basic old school checks, especially that all timing marks were aligned before you dismantled the timing chain.

    Doing basic engine checks, like removing plugs and manually turning crank to ensure it spins ok (can covers off so you can see what’s going on), compression test to check each cylinder’s condition, checked mechanical valve timing is correct, spark plug condition and colour, etc.... you know old school checks that people used to do to verify the mechanical status was ok before the advent of ecu’s and diagnostic codes.

    If doing the above shows all is ok, then it could be engine oiled pump or gearbox/torque converter/clutch as internal bits still sprin with the motor even when the car is stationary. Starter motor pinion may also not retract fully causing fringing or rumbling noises.

    But as mentioned in a post above, if you have periodic clunks, tapping or grinding with engine running, don’t drive thinking it will go away. Likely it will just cause more damage so don’t drive it until you know what’s wrong and have determined it’s safe to drive (with such knocking sounds) until you get it fixed sooner rather than later.

    Don’t be like my sister who has no mechanical sympathy and has driven with loud squeals occurring every time she jumped on the brake pedal. Continued doing this until the rotor eroded the brake pad wear finger and the noise got less annoying (but the brake pad backing plate started to grind away the rotor itself)... Then she asked if I can help after having turned a cheap pad change into new rotors and pads....
     
  6. Kermet

    Kermet New Member

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    Thanks for your reply mate, I have done most checks besides compression test, and it is an LFX interference engine. I am considering ripping the engine out or at least the head to find the needle in a hay stack.

    I haven't driven it for a month and several mechanic shops has told me I'm looking at about $1000 for them to rip the engine out and dismantle it to find the cause. I will try and post a video once I figure out how to. or you can give step by step.

    cheers
     

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