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VE V6 o2 diagnosis

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by WreckWren, May 12, 2019.

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  1. WreckWren

    WreckWren New Member

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    Hi JC, first time poster in these here VE forums, just got my first VE.

    VE S1 Omega with high Ks (300+) and it guzzles fuel (13L/100 is the lowest I can get it, 14.5 minimum normal) and logs o2 codes.

    First up did the timing chain because it doesn't have a service history, so at least we can rule that out lol


    I've heard some conflicting things, so here are my questions to try and be sure it's o2 sensors before I drop a couple hundred $:

    • There's what sounds like LOUD injector tick at idle. Coils not visibly arcing - how to test?
    • Worth checking & cleaning MAF thoroughly? Have heard to check air temp sensor - where?
    • Going to try smoke test for vac leaks. Anything specific to VE V6s I should check?
    • Can codes/eng light be reset without a proper scan tool?

    If there's anything you know related to this or can contribute pls hit up that reply button


    BONUS:
    Interested in what a V8 swap on the cheap, all work done by me would end up running me.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  2. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    Forget swapping out the V6. If you want a V8 buy a V8.
    The front passenger side O2 sensor died on mine around 220 Ks. They are around $130 each and $75 each for the rear ones but don't bother doing the rears it won't solve your problem.
    The front one was a ******* pain in the arse to access but made a big difference once I got it done!
    Try unplugging the coils one at a time while it's idling to test them. If the engine stumbles when you unplug it then that coil is firing ok. If no difference on one or two coils they are dodgy.
     
  3. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    o2 sensors are a service item anyway mate I’d just replace them and be done with especially if your fuel economy figures are that bad
     
  4. Bonus

    Bonus Member

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    The loud ticking your are hearing is likely to be the evap purge solenoid, common to start ticking loudly, not a issue tho unless the tick annoys ya
     
  5. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    commy vk likes this.
  6. WreckWren

    WreckWren New Member

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    Why? Don't say it's expensive, I asked how much.

    Beauty, cheers I was wondering if the secondary bank was worth checking. No danger with these of causing damage unplugging things while running? All this EFI stuff is still a little newfangled to me lol used that trick with a VR once.

    Yeah they're pretty bad ay perhaps it's a sign both banks of sensors are done?
    I don't know what else to check, air filter is spotless and cats are free flowing. No vacuum leaks I can find so far.
     
  7. WreckWren

    WreckWren New Member

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    Beauty cheers for clearing that up for me fellas, that's a load off the mind :D
    So it should be unrelated to fuel economy?

    Ultimately what I'm after is to get the V6 to guzzle a little less fuel to make saving for an LS a bit easier.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  8. BowTie

    BowTie Active Member

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    An obd2 bluetooth adaptor and torque pro is the easiest way to zero in on faults. Realtime charts helps too.
     
  9. WreckWren

    WreckWren New Member

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    I actually have one of these and have been trying to work out what definite info I can get out of it.

    Codes aren't logging correctly now but I did have a chart of the o2 readings, which were pretty bananas but were at least consistent.

    iirc the correct reading at idle for them is around .450 or .0450 or something? I remember the readout on one of the banks reading double normal. Heard a dodgy coil or vacuum leak can cause readings like this though hence post.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  10. vr304

    vr304 Well-Known Member

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    Replace both banks of o2s mate
     
  11. WreckWren

    WreckWren New Member

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    OK, so I've got the new sensors and got the driver's side in, but for the life of me cannot figure out how to even get to the passenger side one without pulling the motor. Pulled the wiper housing apart to try and get easier access but the wipers won't come off either, held on by some retaining clips.

    Any ideas fellas?

    UPDATE:

    Managed to get all but the driver's side clip out. Can't seem to get in there without dropping the trans.

    UPDATE:

    Dropped the trans in the end and got it done. After resetting ECU, still throwing check engine (alternator warning as well, which is new). Codes to follow.

    P2008, along with P0300 & the respective codes for cyls 1, 3 & 5 - no doubt connected. Haven't driven the car more than a couple Ks since swapping the sensors & DCing the battery, though. Likely to affect the highway fuel economy a great deal?
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019

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