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VE V6 o2 diagnosis

WreckWren

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Hi JC, first time poster in these here VE forums, just got my first VE.

VE S1 Omega with high Ks (300+) and it guzzles fuel (13L/100 is the lowest I can get it, 14.5 minimum normal) and logs o2 codes.

First up did the timing chain because it doesn't have a service history, so at least we can rule that out lol


I've heard some conflicting things, so here are my questions to try and be sure it's o2 sensors before I drop a couple hundred $:

  • There's what sounds like LOUD injector tick at idle. Coils not visibly arcing - how to test?
  • Worth checking & cleaning MAF thoroughly? Have heard to check air temp sensor - where?
  • Going to try smoke test for vac leaks. Anything specific to VE V6s I should check?
  • Can codes/eng light be reset without a proper scan tool?

If there's anything you know related to this or can contribute pls hit up that reply button


BONUS:
Interested in what a V8 swap on the cheap, all work done by me would end up running me.
 
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greenacc

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Forget swapping out the V6. If you want a V8 buy a V8.
The front passenger side O2 sensor died on mine around 220 Ks. They are around $130 each and $75 each for the rear ones but don't bother doing the rears it won't solve your problem.
The front one was a ******* pain in the arse to access but made a big difference once I got it done!
Try unplugging the coils one at a time while it's idling to test them. If the engine stumbles when you unplug it then that coil is firing ok. If no difference on one or two coils they are dodgy.
 

vr304

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o2 sensors are a service item anyway mate I’d just replace them and be done with especially if your fuel economy figures are that bad
 

Bonus

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The loud ticking your are hearing is likely to be the evap purge solenoid, common to start ticking loudly, not a issue tho unless the tick annoys ya
 

WreckWren

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Forget swapping out the V6. If you want a V8 buy a V8.
Why? Don't say it's expensive, I asked how much.

The front passenger side O2 sensor died on mine around 220 Ks. They are around $130 each and $75 each for the rear ones but don't bother doing the rears it won't solve your problem.
The front one was a ******* pain in the arse to access but made a big difference once I got it done!
Try unplugging the coils one at a time while it's idling to test them. If the engine stumbles when you unplug it then that coil is firing ok. If no difference on one or two coils they are dodgy.
Beauty, cheers I was wondering if the secondary bank was worth checking. No danger with these of causing damage unplugging things while running? All this EFI stuff is still a little newfangled to me lol used that trick with a VR once.

o2 sensors are a service item anyway mate I’d just replace them and be done with especially if your fuel economy figures are that bad

Yeah they're pretty bad ay perhaps it's a sign both banks of sensors are done?
I don't know what else to check, air filter is spotless and cats are free flowing. No vacuum leaks I can find so far.
 

WreckWren

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The loud ticking your are hearing is likely to be the evap purge solenoid, common to start ticking loudly, not a issue tho unless the tick annoys ya

As Bonus said, if it's ticking from the top of the motor and still running smoothly it can be this little guy
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Genuine-H...-EVAP-Purge-Solenoid-Valve-V6-3-6l/2038482207

Beauty cheers for clearing that up for me fellas, that's a load off the mind :D
So it should be unrelated to fuel economy?

Ultimately what I'm after is to get the V6 to guzzle a little less fuel to make saving for an LS a bit easier.
 
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BowTie

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An obd2 bluetooth adaptor and torque pro is the easiest way to zero in on faults. Realtime charts helps too.
 

WreckWren

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An obd2 bluetooth adaptor and torque pro is the easiest way to zero in on faults. Realtime charts helps too.
I actually have one of these and have been trying to work out what definite info I can get out of it.

Codes aren't logging correctly now but I did have a chart of the o2 readings, which were pretty bananas but were at least consistent.

iirc the correct reading at idle for them is around .450 or .0450 or something? I remember the readout on one of the banks reading double normal. Heard a dodgy coil or vacuum leak can cause readings like this though hence post.
 
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