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Vf calais v 6.0 litre lifter replacement issues
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Skylarking
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2 months without a car because of ticking lifters? Even in COVID infected Rackoon city (Melbourne), it wouldn't taken so long to fix this... Something is odd and i wouldn't be a happy camper if it was my car 
So how old is your car and how many kms has it done? Did you disuss this problems with a dealer before going 3rd party? If so what did they say was wrong? How much did the 3rd party mechanic quote to repair your car? Which cylinders aren't working (AFM shuts down cylinders 1, 7, 6 & 4)?
Normally, someone would reprogram the ECU to remove the AFM feature if they have installed a new more agressive cam that AFM lifters can't cope with. They'd then install new (normal) lifters (not the AFM ones) along with a new valley plate (to replace the VLOM). BUT such is done if your chasing power. If you just want noisy lifters fixed, it should just be new lifters and maybe a new standard cam (if worn).
If you've retained the AFM feature, reprograming wont help some crushed wiring that earths the VLOM solenoids (as that's the only fault i can think of that would sut down the AFM cylinders at startup).
It all seems odd and the mechanic needs to clearly explain the problem to you so you fully understand the repair... Go and ask the meachanic fixing your car to explain what he's done, what the problem is and how he's going to fix it ... and take a friend that understands cars with you
So how old is your car and how many kms has it done? Did you disuss this problems with a dealer before going 3rd party? If so what did they say was wrong? How much did the 3rd party mechanic quote to repair your car? Which cylinders aren't working (AFM shuts down cylinders 1, 7, 6 & 4)?
Normally, someone would reprogram the ECU to remove the AFM feature if they have installed a new more agressive cam that AFM lifters can't cope with. They'd then install new (normal) lifters (not the AFM ones) along with a new valley plate (to replace the VLOM). BUT such is done if your chasing power. If you just want noisy lifters fixed, it should just be new lifters and maybe a new standard cam (if worn).
If you've retained the AFM feature, reprograming wont help some crushed wiring that earths the VLOM solenoids (as that's the only fault i can think of that would sut down the AFM cylinders at startup).
It all seems odd and the mechanic needs to clearly explain the problem to you so you fully understand the repair... Go and ask the meachanic fixing your car to explain what he's done, what the problem is and how he's going to fix it ... and take a friend that understands cars with you
vf calais
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Cars 2014 vf calais, 100,000 km on clock...cars still under premium warranty and quoted me 1500, also its at the mechanics where I brought the car...I think there just ******* **** up more as they go...also thought warranty would have covered it all...but yeah...
Skylarking
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Is that an extended Holden factory warranty or some insurance policy they call a premium warranty?
If it's not an extended factory warranty and it's an insurance policy, read the policy in detail and make sure you know why you can't claim from it...
If it's an extended factory warranty, shouldn't it be repaired by a Holden dealer?
As it's done 100,000kms, im not sure but i believe its prudent to also replace the pushrods as the heads are off...
If it's not an extended factory warranty and it's an insurance policy, read the policy in detail and make sure you know why you can't claim from it...
If it's an extended factory warranty, shouldn't it be repaired by a Holden dealer?
As it's done 100,000kms, im not sure but i believe its prudent to also replace the pushrods as the heads are off...
vf calais
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I beleive its warranty through factory, not insurance...bloke said its $4500 job and said ill have to pay $1500...not sure wtf is going on ere...thinking of bringing in lawyers or ombudsman...
vf calais
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Old mate said the cam had a little bluey colour mark on it but cleaned up and said was fine due to lifters being stiff n rubbing on it but no damage done...2 months without a car because of ticking lifters? Even in COVID infected Rackoon city (Melbourne), it wouldn't taken so long to fix this... Something is odd and i wouldn't be a happy camper if it was my car
So how old is your car and how many kms has it done? Did you disuss this problems with a dealer before going 3rd party? If so what did they say was wrong? How much did the 3rd party mechanic quote to repair your car? Which cylinders aren't working (AFM shuts down cylinders 1, 7, 6 & 4)?
Normally, someone would reprogram the ECU to remove the AFM feature if they have installed a new more agressive cam that AFM lifters can't cope with. They'd then install new (normal) lifters (not the AFM ones) along with a new valley plate (to replace the VLOM). BUT such is done if your chasing power. If you just want noisy lifters fixed, it should just be new lifters and maybe a new standard cam (if worn).
If you've retained the AFM feature, reprograming wont help some crushed wiring that earths the VLOM solenoids (as that's the only fault i can think of that would sut down the AFM cylinders at startup).
It all seems odd and the mechanic needs to clearly explain the problem to you so you fully understand the repair... Go and ask the meachanic fixing your car to explain what he's done, what the problem is and how he's going to fix it ... and take a friend that understands cars with you
Skylarking
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If it’s under factory warranty, the manufacturer should cover all repair costs and it won’t cost you a cent but they expect the work will be done by their dealer network...
Those dealer/seller type “warranty” Insurances have conditions up the wazoo and may expect some contribution from you when making a claim or may limit the total amount they pay on any given claim.
Me, I’d go to a Holden dealer and give them your VIN. Ask them to print out when your factory warranty / extended factory warranty details which will list start and end dates. It’s then important to read and understand all the conditions of your factory and “premium warranty”. If the “premium warranty” is some extended factory warranty (underwritten by insurance company) then for all purposes it identical to factory. If it’s some separate dealer/sellers warranty insurance, it’s a different beast.
Seems like you have some work to do to understand where you are warranty wise. It may save you $1500, it may not. If you could have claimed through the factory warranty, that would have been preferable... It doesn’t seem like the $3500 premium is complete junk as it seems they made some contribution to the repair, you just need to find out if it’s according to the policy. If the policy is not paying out as it should talk to AFCA and and lodge a complain and in the best outcome you may get some $ back. If the claim could have been handles through factory warranty, also lodge a complain with your state consumer group.
You just need to work out where you are first, both from a warranty perspective and from a mechanical perspective.
As to your cam, any metal that goes blue has been heated up to the point where oxides form and the metallurgy has been altered. It can be done on purpose for aesthetics (like gun parts) but cams aren’t blued on purpose. Bluing on cams would be caused by heat and i‘d think the cam should be replaced rather than “cleaned up”...
There’s a few things going on for you but mechanical wise, seems like you need someone you can trust, that understands mechanical things, to be on your side and look after your interests...
Good luck with it all.
Those dealer/seller type “warranty” Insurances have conditions up the wazoo and may expect some contribution from you when making a claim or may limit the total amount they pay on any given claim.
Me, I’d go to a Holden dealer and give them your VIN. Ask them to print out when your factory warranty / extended factory warranty details which will list start and end dates. It’s then important to read and understand all the conditions of your factory and “premium warranty”. If the “premium warranty” is some extended factory warranty (underwritten by insurance company) then for all purposes it identical to factory. If it’s some separate dealer/sellers warranty insurance, it’s a different beast.
Seems like you have some work to do to understand where you are warranty wise. It may save you $1500, it may not. If you could have claimed through the factory warranty, that would have been preferable... It doesn’t seem like the $3500 premium is complete junk as it seems they made some contribution to the repair, you just need to find out if it’s according to the policy. If the policy is not paying out as it should talk to AFCA and and lodge a complain and in the best outcome you may get some $ back. If the claim could have been handles through factory warranty, also lodge a complain with your state consumer group.
You just need to work out where you are first, both from a warranty perspective and from a mechanical perspective.
As to your cam, any metal that goes blue has been heated up to the point where oxides form and the metallurgy has been altered. It can be done on purpose for aesthetics (like gun parts) but cams aren’t blued on purpose. Bluing on cams would be caused by heat and i‘d think the cam should be replaced rather than “cleaned up”...
There’s a few things going on for you but mechanical wise, seems like you need someone you can trust, that understands mechanical things, to be on your side and look after your interests...
Good luck with it all.
