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VF Evoke 2014 sedan - remove battery strap question

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

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have a 2014 VF evoke sedan, so is that information relevant for me? I'll be mindful of the vent tube.

Now I have 2 opinions - 12 and 13mm. Can anyone confirm which it is?
My VF is from 2017, and the a few principle differences (for the wagon) is the size of the battery recess and curiously, marked difference in sizes of several nuts and other fitments, not just confined to one area. Rather than fret on which spanner fits which size nut (and remember the golden rule, use the right tool for the job, not a 'near enough will be good enough' one), go for a toddle to Supercheap or AutoBarn, or Repco and get a set of metric spanners and sockets. Then work through each one, and sure as the sun rises in the morn', one of 'em will fit!

When all else fails, just cut the strap. Sorted. Bewdiful. o_O
 

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

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Lastly, be cautious in Melboure, or is it now know as Racoon city, I hear a trip to Bunnings could cost you $1652 for breaching CHO directives :p:eek:
Yes, be really careful!! The CHOttie is not to be messed with. Nor the Chairman. What a great team we have there...

This wont hurt a bit.jpg
 

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Here is a Link to a post which will point you to the VF workshop manual, download it and digest its info ;) It’s a difficult PDF to read but best done on a computer using Adobe free PDF reader with the chapter/bookmarks pane open on the left side of the window...

A workshop manual is the best tool a DIY home mechanic can have... along with common sense and a safety focus... just ask for advice and always be safety aware and use safety equipment... Never get under a car only supported by jacks as it can be fatal - use axle stands..

12mm or 13mm, doesn’t matter, get yourself a full socket set if you plan to learn a little and work on your own car.

Lastly, be cautious in Melboure, or is it now know as Racoon city, I hear a trip to Bunnings could cost you $1652 for breaching CHO directives :p:eek::p
Thanks, I've downloaded the manual.

Another question I've just thought of - will I need the radio code once I've replaced the battery? I searched "radio code" in that manual and it didn't come up with anything. Couldn't find in the car manual either.

My VF is from 2017, and the a few principle differences (for the wagon) is the size of the battery recess and curiously, marked difference in sizes of several nuts and other fitments, not just confined to one area. Rather than fret on which spanner fits which size nut (and remember the golden rule, use the right tool for the job, not a 'near enough will be good enough' one), go for a toddle to Supercheap or AutoBarn, or Repco and get a set of metric spanners and sockets. Then work through each one, and sure as the sun rises in the morn', one of 'em will fit!

When all else fails, just cut the strap. Sorted. Bewdiful. o_O
I've got a 40 piece socket set but the 13mm piece was not deep enough to fit onto the nut, as the bolt protrudes a fair bit. Which means (I believe) I need to buy an individual deep socket piece, and I want to get the exact right one.
 

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I believe the infotainment system is coded with the cars VIN. During startup it cross checks against the VIN stored in the either the ECU or BCM of some other place of magic. If everything matches up, the infotainment system will turn on. So, you don‘t need to do anything as archaic as entering a code manually ;)

As for socket sizes, you can actually try both the 12mm & 13mm socket without the ratchet handle so it should slip over the threaded bolt nicely... whichever fits snug is the correct size... if you’re lucky you can even push on the handle partly on the socket and get a bit of perch to loosen the nut (as was mentioned earlier) :cool:
 

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Your radio code, along with key security codes etc, is on the Vehicle Security Information card the comes with the car (and which should never be stored in the car). If the battery is changed at a service centre (not necessarily or exclusively Holden), a device is plugged in to the OBD port to provide power while the battery is changed out.
 

jimmy_d

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I believe the infotainment system is coded with the cars VIN. During startup it cross checks against the VIN stored in the either the ECU or BCM of some other place of magic. If everything matches up, the infotainment system will turn on. So, you don‘t need to do anything as archaic as entering a code manually ;)

As for socket sizes, you can actually try both the 12mm & 13mm socket without the ratchet handle so it should slip over the threaded bolt nicely... whichever fits snug is the correct size... if you’re lucky you can even push on the handle partly on the socket and get a bit of perch to loosen the nut (as was mentioned earlier) :cool:
Cheers, noted.

Yeah, tried without the ratchet, no luck. It's just hitting the bolt. The socket set is a cheapo one, maybe that's why. I ordered the 13mm deep socket.

Since I've got this thread open I might as well ask your advice on the battery purchase. The batteries I'm looking at from Repco just went on sale. Attached pic shows which ones "fit my vehicle" supposedly, although I was under the impression it had to be a DIN model due to the output valve, and some of them aren't. Any thoughts on the best one for value?

Edit: I should mention I use the car pretty standardly, around 10k per year and no additional sound system fittings or other electronics.
 

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Skylarking

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Your radio code, along with key security codes etc, is on the Vehicle Security Information card the comes with the car (and which should never be stored in the car). If the battery is changed at a service centre (not necessarily or exclusively Holden), a device is plugged in to the OBD port to provide power while the battery is changed out.
The Owners manual page 20 states:

INFOCARD
The security card lists various security numbers for the vehicle, including key numbers.
Keep the card in a safe place, away from the vehicle.
If a key is lost, a replacement can be ordered through any Holden Dealer by quoting the key code number, security code number and providing proof of ownership.

Also, the owners manual infortainment section makes no mention of any security code :rolleyes:

It‘s also interesting that the Info card pictured within the owners manual show what seems to be RPO codes. Oddly mine doesn't show RPO codes although it makes a naff reference to radio code which is obviously wrong... Holden QC on display :p

The workshop manual itself is quite clear about the VIN matching during startup as part of the theft protection on page 3653 of 11631.

And I’ve found no other reference to security (radio) code within either owners manual or workshop manual.
 
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Anthony121

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Cheers, noted.

Yeah, tried without the ratchet, no luck. It's just hitting the bolt. The socket set is a cheapo one, maybe that's why. I ordered the 13mm deep socket.

Since I've got this thread open I might as well ask your advice on the battery purchase. The batteries I'm looking at from Repco just went on sale. Attached pic shows which ones "fit my vehicle" supposedly, although I was under the impression it had to be a DIN model due to the output valve, and some of them aren't. Any thoughts on the best one for value?

Edit: I should mention I use the car pretty standardly, around 10k per year and no additional sound system fittings or other electronics.
I would use R&J Batteries if in Melbourne and get an AC Delco replacement battery
 

Anthony121

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Your radio code, along with key security codes etc, is on the Vehicle Security Information card the comes with the car (and which should never be stored in the car). If the battery is changed at a service centre (not necessarily or exclusively Holden), a device is plugged in to the OBD port to provide power while the battery is changed out.
My other car had a flat battery for weeks and I changed the battery myself without any other power supplied to the car and the radio and I think all the driver settings were retained. It took me about 50 mins to swap the battery so the car would of been without power for at least 10 mins. Battery was dead with only about 9 volts when I removed it.
 

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Any thoughts on the best one for value?
If going a century battery, (including the Repco's home brand ones) try to go for one with a glossy body over a matte one. Glossies are made in Australia by Century whereas matte ones are imports from Asia.
Also, incase something goes wrong. Pay attention to how a battery maker or their sellers structure their warranties. Generally the stronger the battery the longer they will guarantee it. But some will make you wait while they send off your battery to run "tests" and then come back at you and claim it's been 'abused'. Its great when you buy from somewhere who gets their young weekend casual staff to put a simple volt meter on it and if its low they give you a complete new battery.
 
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