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VF II SS V - lost its growl!

monstar

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From F&TF 47:
monstar: I live my life one servo with E85 at a time

:D
Aye, life with alcohol's a wee bit more planned nowadays, not such a bad thing after decades of... FTW and FML unplanned!
 

V8L1ON-Redline

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Did anyone find a positive solution to this? Mine has now also lost the crackle on the downshift. It has been into the dealer several time for them to try to fix, but they come up with different reasons every time. We have tried new cats, and checked all the bimodal fuses and circuits. The latest reply was:

“ECM goes into Fuel Cut-Off 1 second after Accelerator pedal is released, crackling will stop.
TCM will request some throttle/extra Revs for a manual downshift, which will re-start the injectors/crackling.
- It may be shutting injectors off as soon as the shift is done, if the Acc.Pedal hasn't been touched.
Note: Fuelling changes as the Engine warms up. Did it previously have a Coolant sensor fault?
Is it only quieter on longer trips, once it's up to full operating temperature?
If the Acc. Pedal is tapped 5% on/off during the downshift, does it do what they're expecting?
It may be the TCM has learnt shifts well enough now to not need as much help rev-matching the downshifts.
-> If you reset adaptive shift values, shift quality will suffer, but does the crackle on manual downshift increase?
Advise the customer to give the Acc.Pedal a prod when they pull the downshift paddle, that should guarantee noise.”

I tried blipping the throttle, as suggested, but no difference, it is still silent and muted. I done seem to have the lack of power though that some of you are mentioning. I do drive it hard from time to time, but there are also "curzy" days. Ironically it was one of my longer "hard drive" trips that the crackle stopped, and pretty close to 20,000km (it may have been exactly, i wasnt watching, but noticed the odo had clicked over when i got home).
 

LS1SS

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Monstar good write up on burny stuff,I’m in the dark and probably so are some others on E85,I see good things in E85,now how do you set your car up to run on it,what are the cost involved and benefits of long term use and does it still switch over to the normal kero ok?
 

Ron Burgundy

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I noticed the same thing on mine in the last couple weeks
This coincided with 20 000 service by Holden and installing k&n panel air filter in stock airbox
For those who saw my previous posts...the cold startup rattling noise is all but gone...
Not noticable at all....huge difference to the videos i posted previously..
The car literally feels like it has different tune...
Crackle and pops are much less audible and the car just feels a bit lazier than usual...
Odd...
Very odd..
 

426Cuda

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I noticed the same thing on mine in the last couple weeks
This coincided with 20 000 service by Holden and installing k&n panel air filter in stock airbox
For those who saw my previous posts...the cold startup rattling noise is all but gone...
Not noticable at all....huge difference to the videos i posted previously..
The car literally feels like it has different tune...
Crackle and pops are much less audible and the car just feels a bit lazier than usual...
Odd...
Very odd..
Is it all in the tune???
No piston slap at all?
I suspect so.
 

monstar

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I see good things in E85, how do you set your car up to run on it,what are the cost involved and benefits of long term use and does it still switch over to the normal kero ok?
Info in my build thread details the main benefits versus petrol
C6B2CF66-B0B6-4096-BDCD-2F796EB5E3A4.jpeg

but VF 2013-2014 has everything built-in, so is simple to retrofit 2015-2017. The only component missing on later models is the fuel composition sensor ($150), and to activate the EFI routine already inside the ECU (~$450).
Thing is the EFI routine in our ECU calculates the best tune on-the-fly depending on ethanol fraction whether 100% petrol and 0% ethanol or vice versa. So you can splash and dash where it’s available and / or when it’s good value.
 

monstar

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Did anyone find a positive solution to this? Mine has now also lost the crackle on the downshift. It has been into the dealer several time for them to try to fix, but they come up with different reasons every time. We have tried new cats, and checked all the bimodal fuses and circuits. The latest reply was:

“ECM goes into Fuel Cut-Off 1 second after Accelerator pedal is released, crackling will stop.
TCM will request some throttle/extra Revs for a manual downshift, which will re-start the injectors/crackling.
- It may be shutting injectors off as soon as the shift is done, if the Acc.Pedal hasn't been touched.
Note: Fuelling changes as the Engine warms up. Did it previously have a Coolant sensor fault?
Is it only quieter on longer trips, once it's up to full operating temperature?
If the Acc. Pedal is tapped 5% on/off during the downshift, does it do what they're expecting?
It may be the TCM has learnt shifts well enough now to not need as much help rev-matching the downshifts.
-> If you reset adaptive shift values, shift quality will suffer, but does the crackle on manual downshift increase?
Advise the customer to give the Acc.Pedal a prod when they pull the downshift paddle, that should guarantee noise.”

I tried blipping the throttle, as suggested, but no difference, it is still silent and muted. I done seem to have the lack of power though that some of you are mentioning. I do drive it hard from time to time, but there are also "curzy" days. Ironically it was one of my longer "hard drive" trips that the crackle stopped, and pretty close to 20,000km (it may have been exactly, i wasnt watching, but noticed the odo had clicked over when i got home).
There’s no way to change DFCO, cat warm-up and or ricer retard without altering the tune. Possibly resetting the LTFT and TCM adapts by disconnecting battery for >20mins to 12hrs but sounds like Holden dealer service person has no authority to recalibrate factory tune, so has to look everywhere else but the briar patch!
 

Murdoch

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Yes it is either fuel, heat, or both retarding Spark to protect your engine.
Intake Air Temperature around 60° is common in traffic where ambient is over 35°, as are coolant temps 100°-110°.
Under these fairly typical summer conditions the ECU pulls spark 11° out of around 21° flooring it with 98, so it's like trying to accelerate with idle spark.
I can't imagine what flooring it with lower octane in typical hot summer traffic would be like but I see that sort of thing all the time... one person daily commute wasting money on cheap, barely refined toxic fuel powering a full sized performance sedan, crawling along with lukewarm a/c on full bore, sun beating down on bitumen bubbles that crackle and pop as the V8 CO2 generator (with Full Bolt Ons) drags its boiling two tonne arse through another non-stop three-in-a-row summer drive time.
Flex your fuel, solves the problem. Made in Australia for us for good reasons.

spot on here bloke
I have been monitoring my spark advance and it does pull it back a lot when it sucking in 30+degree air, and power is down somewhat too.
Car loves early morning 10 degree air, totally different beast.
 
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