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VF series 1 ss turbo

Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by Clay1391, Jan 1, 2020.

  1. Clay1391

    Clay1391 Active Member

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    Has anyone put a turbo on a VF series 1 ss? Was looking into putting a small turbo to make roughly 330rwkw . Currently just have full exhaust making 270rwkw and didn't want to put a cam in it.

    How much power can you get out of the transmission and other parts before things start to break? Obviously it also comes down to how you drive it too.

    Was also told you don't need to put a cam in to put a procharger in too, but wanted to look into all option's.

    Advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks and happy ny
     
  2. abuch47

    abuch47 Active Member

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    you dont need to change the cam for any type of boost.

    goat, killaboost manifolds both do turbo kits. occasionaly see kits for $2-5k on marketplace which is about the cheapest turbo option. LSA chargers plus fitment are a little bit more expensive.
     
  3. Pyrex

    Pyrex Member

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    There is no turbo kit that will get you anywhere near 330rwkw, Killaboost entry level kit is good for 500rwkw on 98.
    Turbo charging a 6 litre will produce serious power, enough to destroy most driveline parts if used frequently .
    Even if tuned on 5psi you will still be around 400rwkw
     
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  4. Smashfist

    Smashfist Active Member

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    Yeah if all you're chasing is 330rwkw put a half decent cam in, that's how I got 330rwkw.
     
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  5. wagon37

    wagon37 Member

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    Yeah I got 315-330rwkw with a sensible cam, auto trans and full exhaust. Still perfectly driveable and goes good.
     
  6. Forg

    Forg Well-Known Member

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    400rwkw with a cam, if you use the right dyno!
     
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  7. abuch47

    abuch47 Active Member

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  8. Clay1391

    Clay1391 Active Member

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    I didn't want to go cam because of the 5-7k outlay to gain 30rwkw on a stealth cam or similar vcm cam. I don't want to go histall and the excessive cost of fuel for a bigger cam.

    I thought maybe a small boost setup with some second hand parts would of been achievable to gain around the 330rwkw, for around 8-10k. Seeing as a 400rwkw+ was around 13k to install with brand new parts.
    Tell me if I'm wrong but the way I'm thinking about it is, the spending a little extra on a boost setup would out way the cost of a bigger cam as the bigger cam would be more expensive to fuel for a daily. As the turbo would be more efficient and would only cost more fuel if I stepped on the pedal more.
     
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  9. Pyrex

    Pyrex Member

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    You are right that to get 330 out of a l77 will require a bigish cam and a stall and would be thirsty and a pain to drive in traffic.
    What you're not getting is that you will need a turbo with a turbine and exhaust housing that will flow enough to allow a 6 litre to breath. This will be at least a T4 1.10A/R , a turbo of this size will have a 70+mm compressor and be capable of 900+hp worth of air. A waste gate of 50-60mm will really struggle to keep boost to 5psi, and even 5psi will produce way more than 330 .
    A LSA blower would be your best option for the power level you are after.
     
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  10. Forg

    Forg Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone who’s done a turbo kit comment on the fuel-efficiency thing? I’m a tad surprised that a turbo would use less fuel than a large-ish cam, the comment about the turbo being more efficient is true when you’re on boost - but when not on boost the turbo’s a big restriction in your exhaust system.

    And a mechanically-connected supercharger is gonna be worse!
     
  11. 07GTS

    07GTS Well-Known Member

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    u will have to do a fuel system for any form of boost so add in pump or pumps and injectors to your pricing, going turbo for such small power figure would be a waste of all the work fitting it in, just go PD blower with stock pulley system and u will have way more then u want also and when cruising around the blower is bypassed so its almost like n/a, any form of boost will use more fuel most of the time but the cruise areas should be tuned to about stock if not better it will be more on the tuners ability then modifications done
     
  12. kleanphil

    kleanphil Active Member

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    EDIT: DOH! Helps if I read the title of the thread
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2020
  13. Clay1391

    Clay1391 Active Member

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    I just don't think the cost of setting up a supercharger is worth it. Looked at it previously and it was roughly 13k+ to set up. Prices obviously differ from place to place.
    Haven't looked at the procharger though, wonder if that would be around the price range I'm looking at. Anyone comment on this?
     
  14. Milo 6.0

    Milo 6.0 Active Member

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    Those goat kits look good,i really like the low mount turbo set up under the car,alot more airflow over the turbos almost eliminating the engine bay heat associated with turbos mounted in the engine bay.
     
  15. Pyrex

    Pyrex Member

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    The Procharger kit from LSX performance parts is 12 grand.
    The Killaboost entry kit from above is 8 grand.
    You may find a shop that has an LSA blower left after someone upgraded to a 2600 that may install it cheap ???.
    As already stated you will need a big, boost referenced fuel system also.
    Call some shops, the Killaboost kit could be running for 12ish which is the best bang for buck.
    Boost is not cheap.
    OR....…….. sell commy , buy an FG-FGX with Barra and you will achieve your power goals with less money and hassles o_O
     
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  16. Clay1391

    Clay1391 Active Member

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    Hahaha I thought of that already

    Thanks for the help anyway and I guess If I'd go boost the only option is turbo.

    Anyone know what fuel economy is like for a stealth cam?
     
  17. Milo 6.0

    Milo 6.0 Active Member

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    Lol i already tried telling these holden guys its much better value to mod a fg/x barra,didnt go down too well :)
     
  18. Clay1391

    Clay1391 Active Member

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    No **** sherlock. It's also heaps cheaper too.
     
  19. Pyrex

    Pyrex Member

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    Hahahaha I keep member ride as my old Ve ute , don't want anyone on here knowing about my 400rwkw Octane FG ute.:D
     
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  20. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    Can tell you this is certainly not the case, and if you're chugging fuel off boost it is almost certainly tune related. The point at which it becomes a restriction in the way you describe is when the turbo starts spooling and making boost. The other reason this is true is that intake air has to go through the turbo regardless of being on boost or not, and if the turbo was a restriction on the exhaust side the engine certainly wouldn't be getting enough air on the intake side either. The turbo is always spinning and using heat energy, even at idle.

    Otherwise every factory turbo car and turbo Falcon would absolutely chew fuel and be a nightmare to drive on the highway, you can drive them around off boost and they're fine. And realistically, existing turbo LS cars aren't driving on boost all the time on the road.

    Efficiency is a totally subjective thing though. All people that do turbo builds use different setups, cam sizes, turbo sizes, and tuning. On an apples for apples factory car though - in general terms, the reason it's more efficient is that a turbo (appropriately sized) can spool up to produce boost at the engine's factory cam RPM/torque range (eg 2000rpm or something) whereas an N/A cam to make the same power would have to rev much higher and use much more fuel at lower RPM because of the much bigger duration.

    OP, also consider that fitting a turbo or supercharger will effect your insurance and make the car unroadworthy unless you get it engineered. Lots of people spend up then have to go through all these hoops once they get defected. IMHO for an increase like what you say you want you'd be better off looking for some kind of cam and like a really renowned tuner who will take their time and won't just do a cut/paste tune.

    I wouldn't base your desires or results on the dyno number, you will rarely see the car using all of it's 320kw. For a road car (particularly if it's a daily) I would be focusing on the low to mid torque curve instead of aiming for a number. Just remember 0-100 is where the car does like 99% of driving.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
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