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VF series 1 ss turbo

07GTS

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u will have to do a fuel system for any form of boost so add in pump or pumps and injectors to your pricing, going turbo for such small power figure would be a waste of all the work fitting it in, just go PD blower with stock pulley system and u will have way more then u want also and when cruising around the blower is bypassed so its almost like n/a, any form of boost will use more fuel most of the time but the cruise areas should be tuned to about stock if not better it will be more on the tuners ability then modifications done
 

kleanphil

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EDIT: DOH! Helps if I read the title of the thread
 
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Clay1391

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I just don't think the cost of setting up a supercharger is worth it. Looked at it previously and it was roughly 13k+ to set up. Prices obviously differ from place to place.
Haven't looked at the procharger though, wonder if that would be around the price range I'm looking at. Anyone comment on this?
 

Milo 6.0

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Pyrex

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I just don't think the cost of setting up a supercharger is worth it. Looked at it previously and it was roughly 13k+ to set up. Prices obviously differ from place to place.
Haven't looked at the procharger though, wonder if that would be around the price range I'm looking at. Anyone comment on this?
The Procharger kit from LSX performance parts is 12 grand.
The Killaboost entry kit from above is 8 grand.
You may find a shop that has an LSA blower left after someone upgraded to a 2600 that may install it cheap ???.
As already stated you will need a big, boost referenced fuel system also.
Call some shops, the Killaboost kit could be running for 12ish which is the best bang for buck.
Boost is not cheap.
OR....…….. sell commy , buy an FG-FGX with Barra and you will achieve your power goals with less money and hassles o_O
 

Clay1391

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Hahaha I thought of that already

Thanks for the help anyway and I guess If I'd go boost the only option is turbo.

Anyone know what fuel economy is like for a stealth cam?
 

Milo 6.0

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The Procharger kit from LSX performance parts is 12 grand.
The Killaboost entry kit from above is 8 grand.
You may find a shop that has an LSA blower left after someone upgraded to a 2600 that may install it cheap ???.
As already stated you will need a big, boost referenced fuel system also.
Call some shops, the Killaboost kit could be running for 12ish which is the best bang for buck.
Boost is not cheap.
OR....…….. sell commy , buy an FG-FGX with Barra and you will achieve your power goals with less money and hassles o_O
Lol i already tried telling these holden guys its much better value to mod a fg/x barra,didnt go down too well :)
 

Clay1391

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No **** sherlock. It's also heaps cheaper too.
 

Pyrex

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Lol i already tried telling these holden guys its much better value to mod a fg/x barra,didnt go down too well :)
Hahahaha I keep member ride as my old Ve ute , don't want anyone on here knowing about my 400rwkw Octane FG ute.:D
 

_R_J_K_

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but when not on boost the turbo’s a big restriction in your exhaust system.

Can tell you this is certainly not the case, and if you're chugging fuel off boost it is almost certainly tune related. The point at which it becomes a restriction in the way you describe is when the turbo starts spooling and making boost. The other reason this is true is that intake air has to go through the turbo regardless of being on boost or not, and if the turbo was a restriction on the exhaust side the engine certainly wouldn't be getting enough air on the intake side either. The turbo is always spinning and using heat energy, even at idle.

Otherwise every factory turbo car and turbo Falcon would absolutely chew fuel and be a nightmare to drive on the highway, you can drive them around off boost and they're fine. And realistically, existing turbo LS cars aren't driving on boost all the time on the road.

Efficiency is a totally subjective thing though. All people that do turbo builds use different setups, cam sizes, turbo sizes, and tuning. On an apples for apples factory car though - in general terms, the reason it's more efficient is that a turbo (appropriately sized) can spool up to produce boost at the engine's factory cam RPM/torque range (eg 2000rpm or something) whereas an N/A cam to make the same power would have to rev much higher and use much more fuel at lower RPM because of the much bigger duration.

OP, also consider that fitting a turbo or supercharger will effect your insurance and make the car unroadworthy unless you get it engineered. Lots of people spend up then have to go through all these hoops once they get defected. IMHO for an increase like what you say you want you'd be better off looking for some kind of cam and like a really renowned tuner who will take their time and won't just do a cut/paste tune.

I wouldn't base your desires or results on the dyno number, you will rarely see the car using all of it's 320kw. For a road car (particularly if it's a daily) I would be focusing on the low to mid torque curve instead of aiming for a number. Just remember 0-100 is where the car does like 99% of driving.
 
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