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VF Series 2 V8 Fuel Consumption

Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by houndogss, Mar 12, 2016.

  1. BLOWN-WH

    BLOWN-WH Active Member

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    I know you are correct here as i have heard this before also.
    Gotta break the habit thats all ;)

    In truth i reckon 2-3 mins should still be ok before you drive off. I can't see that doing much harm to the engine (at least i hope!).
     
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  2. panhead

    panhead Well-Known Member

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    As is pumping the accelerator half a dozen times before turning the key.

    Sir Les is right, start and drive.

    The Commodores are designed to make allowances for the lowest common denominator so not much damage will occur but nothing is gained either while fuel is being wasted.

    If it was a highly strung Euro performance car then the owner's manual would tell you not to warm idle it.


    .
     
  3. redvxr8clubby

    redvxr8clubby Active Member

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    I've previously had a LS1 VXII Calais and still have my VX R8 Clubby (manual), I also have a VE AFM SS - I'd say AFM fuel saving as about 10% over my Calais. AFM only activates on very light throttle, even with pretty light throttle openings, AFM deactivates.
     
  4. monstar

    monstar Naturally as-pirated

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    Nah, not for e38? how do you change that?
     
  5. 07GTS

    07GTS Well-Known Member

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    yep E38 E67 and the flex fuel 08 E38 and newer have a sliding scale for ethanol percentage, even some gen3 can, its the "fuel density" in HPT, its the only way i can keep my calculations correct for a scaled tune to suit my injectors
     
  6. monstar

    monstar Naturally as-pirated

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    Ah ok, but fuel composition / density is not the reason Instant Fuel Economy on my DIC shows like +50% more than actual at times. Can't compensate GenIV on EFIlive like you could GenIII on HPT.
     
  7. 07GTS

    07GTS Well-Known Member

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    the density gets it correct for the injectors so when it says u used 1 litre that u actually used 1 litre, then all other fuel economy is based on that but as i said all the other info is a constantly moving target like the "instant liters/100" is only accurate if u stay in the exact situation for a full tank worth of fuel which is impossible, also the fuel tank level is used so it knows how much fuel is in the tank as a calc and thats not perfect either so the tank might say its gone down 5 liters and usage say u used 3 liters so then it has to change it calc to suit less fuel left in tank also, if anyone wants a good average fuel just dont reset it for 6 months then u will have a more average use that wont be affected by the little things
     
  8. monstar

    monstar Naturally as-pirated

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    Using CALC.FUEL_FLOW based on a MAF value is still correct, so I can use l/hr divided by km/hr to get l/100 using logging software on phone. That is near dash most of the time so no biggie. However the CALC.FC.IFC (Instant Fuel Consumption) used to display on the DIC must be based on stock fuel rate lookup, not actual MAF values so becomes out of whack with mods. Also my tune is blended open loop with modified fuel pressure, hence IFR.
    With e38 or e67 the work around by adjusting a density offset as you suggest the LS2 has in the e40, is not possible, at least not in EFIlive.
     
  9. monstar

    monstar Naturally as-pirated

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    Hypermiling to save a quid on fuel in a two tonne V8 does makes sense if you intend to clock several hundred thousands of kms, for work (definitely not worth it for most garage queens). Tuning is the most expensive part, so the way to net savings is with a small investment in a wideband sensor and scantool. This ultimately pays dividend with spend less at the pump and with your tuner.
    TL;DR - Tuning and mechanical tweaks are required for serious consumption drop, tuning for alternative, cheaper fuel is key.
    Stage -1 Drive like you are 10 mins from the servo on the last five litres of fuel.
    Stage 0 - Swap 2.92 gears, retain standard plugs and thermostat. Keep lubrication fresh, air filter and sensors clean (MAF, O2). Use Unleaded e10 fuel that's 95 RON (eg United). Do full wheel alignment with 245s and consider nitrogen to easily set optimum tyre pressure.
    Stage 1 - Minimise pressure drop through induction and exhaust with off-the-shelf bolt-ons eg. Air Dam, CAI, catback or axleback.
    Stage 2 - Maximise velocity and air speed efficiency with devices tuned to (RPM of MBT and peak HP) of near stock motor eg. ported throttle, extractors, secondaries and HFCs, proper x-pipe.
    This necessitates a tune - Swap [electronic throttle position and DFCO] per US Camaro. Calibrate fuel injectors for idle / cruise (no extra pulse, SOIT etc) smooth out part throttle transient fuel compensation.
    Stage 3 - Increase the volumetric efficiency by introducing tumble in the runners via manifold Rod Mod, install high ratio rockers and beehives to increase time / area duration of stock cam for more torque with better fuel atomisation. If auto then consider retrofitting revised AFM per L99. Tune again.
    Stage 4 - Raise the overall thermal efficiency through increased compresssion and expansion ratio by shaving heads, decking block (or both) and installing a cam optimised for max torque in the operating range. Consider VVT cam and phaser per L99. Swap stock flimsy balancer for a larger Fluidampr to smooth and store torque. Tune again.
    Stage 5 - Patch the fuel composition sensor and tune again to enable flex fuel calibrations in the tune and fill up with ~$1/litre fuel where available + similar consumption = better $/km.
    Bottom line: Stock BSFC is 0.47 on PULP, with some minor modification you can achieve much better than that. Better still you can get similar (0.50) on e85, which comes at 1/2 to 2/3 the price. Most NA mods are all about HP and can blow BSFC out to 0.60 while screwing cruise torque and quality of transitions.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
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  10. WHYtheFACE

    WHYtheFACE Member

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    Currently averaging around 15.5L /100km in my vf2 redline.

    Cruising at any sort of speed limit/70+ will see it sitting between say 7L/ and 16L/ sitting on 110 in 6th will be around 10-12L/100km at the lowest, so pretty average on fuel compared to the claimed figures, but surprisingly better on fuel than any of the old pos commodores I've owned before this. (VT ecojet on gas/L67 VT, VU SS LS1) all of which were pushing 20L/100km all the time.
     
  11. Brabham

    Brabham Active Member

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    Now it's settled in I'm down to around 16L/100. Don't see it dropping much more than that for the type of driving that I do.
     
  12. Trofius

    Trofius Active Member

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    so had the new wagon for a week, first tank of fuel essentially gone, low fuel warning point. ~ 1/8 tank left, which works out to be about 10L to go (71L tank)

    So filled her up with 95, she took 61 litres,
    we have travelled 360 km predominantly around town, av speed 34km/h

    So we achieved about 17L/100km essentially driving like grandma, taking it easy
     
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  13. CalaisNQ

    CalaisNQ Active Member

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    That sounds about right for your avg speed.
     
  14. VF2SSBlack

    VF2SSBlack New Member

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    I have a VF2 SS "Black" Manual, using 98, Freeway running to work, (30-40 minute drive), stop-start for 25 minutes on the way home, then Freeway, driven every day, 9000k's, best figure of 9.8L/100, (can supply photo as proof if required), average of 11.5-11.8.
     
  15. VF2SSBlack

    VF2SSBlack New Member

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    Sounds about right, Auto's use 1-2L/100 more than Manuals.
     
  16. VF2SSBlack

    VF2SSBlack New Member

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    Tyre Pressure makes a difference; What Pressure are you running? I have tried 36psi, (nicer ride), and all pressures up to and including 40psi, (obviously firmer/rougher ride), without changing anything else and found I can get up to an extra 50 km/tank at higher tyre pressure.
     
  17. monstar

    monstar Naturally as-pirated

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    You really should get your car tuned to your driving, particularly the AFM.
    Minimum saving 10%, depends on how hilly and how many turns in your burb. I live near beach so is flat good air and not twisty, drive like your mum and AFM gets less than 8l/100k 50-80kph.
    The Australian stock tune hardly puts AFM to use coz sounds different. As a result the consensus is that AFM only works at highway speed micro throttle, but it is totally different in the Camaro tune.
     
  18. SuckSqueezeBangBlow

    SuckSqueezeBangBlow Active Member

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    I basically rolled down into Sydney from Mt Victoria for a new PB of 8.0
     
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  19. 426Cuda

    426Cuda SUBLIME!

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    I have achieved a best of 6.0/100 over a 100km distance in my tuned L77. As Monstar alluded to, it has been tuned to maximise AFM (and e85).
     
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  20. TTubrag

    TTubrag Active Member

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    VEHICLE: 2016 VFII Redline. Manual. 9,500km. Runs BP 98. 37psi cold tyre pressures.
    DRIVING CONDITIONS: Heavy fun foot on most drives. Bi-Modal switched on. ~50/50 suburb / freeway driving split.
    FUEL CONSUMPTION: For trip computer recorded average speeds of 46km/h to 54km/h over the life of a tank, the Redline drinks between 12.5 l/100km and 13.3 l/100km. So averaging 12.9 l/100km.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
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