Hi All. I've done some searching, but can't seem to find what I want. Have changed brakes on many cars before, and now its time for the front on the VF SS Series 2 Redline (Brembo Brakes). Is there any tips or tricks, or specialty tools I need to push the pistons in etc? Rotors will be done as well, so im assuming the caliper will need to be entirely removed to remove the rotor etc. Cheers in advance. Sorry if its a duplicate thread, as couldnt find what i needed.
I'm offering a very negative post I know but it needs to be said. Brakes are very important for the safety of all road users and your questions are of the very basic kind, are you sure you're equipped to do the job or should you take it to the professionals. .
There are many videos on you tube about brembo calipers and brake pad change. Look it up. Easy job... This tool helps https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-caliper-piston-spreader/392379.html
Yep, like I said, changed many brakes before on many different types of cars. So just seeking out any tips/tricks
Yea heaps of videos on youtube as it shares the same basic 4 pot caliper as WRX sti 02-17, Evo etc. Pushing the pistons I do by hand ensuring the master cylinder isn't too full. You can also buy a tool but ensure its 2 sided one not the basic 1 side pad spreader as that works only on sliding calipers. If bleeding the brakes remember there is 2 bleed valves on each caliper, 1 for each bank of pistons.
There’s only 2 bolts so nothing really special needed. The tool @Ron Burgundy posted or any type of caliper tool like it is about it. I can’t remember of the top of my head but I think the caliper bolts need to be done up to 170nm or something like that so you well need a torque wrench.
@clappa, you “have changed brakes on many cars before” but is that pad changes you’ve previously don’t, which is very different to altering brake system by replacing front and rear caliper and master cylinder? Bit more involved in the later as compared to the former. Like @panhead, I don’t want to offend but it seems your questions are a little basic so I’d also suggest you go speak to a brake specialist. Further, I’d suggest you speak to NSW RMS about your upgrade plans. Hope your spanner twirling is better than your search ability (it’s a joke so please don’t get offended) but there is the infamous @Ron Burgundy Engineering certificate for brake upgrade from SS to Brembo brakes thread that is worth a read and takes you down the brake upgrade rabbit hole. Read it and understand the legalities and engineering of upgrading, then as an adult decide for yourself. There are a few other recent threads also worth a read.
By the info he is saying he is replacing the pads and rotors on his VF2 redline, not upgrading the calipers or anything?
You have to replace the caliber bolts as they are no reusable as per service manual. There is a thread somewhere with the part numbers required for front and rear.
Yep, as per original thread, car already has Brembo brakes, so not upgrading! Maybe my search ability is as good as your ability to read
Just to be pedantic, it's "as per original post", not "as per original thread" But yes, i need to actually read rather than quickly scan what was typed I find google search more efficient at finding stuff than forum search, so try "changing brembo pads justcommodores" in google First hit with the above was help changing brembo front pads but there are more you could also search "replacing brake rotors on brembo justcommodore" or similar And if you've not played with VF's much, probably a good idea to get the workshop manual. You can find a link to it here
With due respect to all and a lot is due. changing pads and rotors is a relatively simple task, for someone with a bit of mechanical nouse. I'm assuming OP has that, as they have already stated... They're floating, so there's no need for loosening wheel hub bearings. Other than the obvious jack, stands, spanners/sockets etc, i'd suggest a suitable dia' straight shaft punch to tap the pins in and out and some hi temp brake grease to avoid the dreaded squeal. Also be sure to check the face of the hub and inside the rotor for corrosion or debris to avoid run out issues.
When I did mine I first tried the Bendix pads without the counter weights and there were no way of getting rid of the squeaking. After changing it to the new Bendix with the weights the squeaking was gone. I get some from time to time but it is just to remind me I am not having enough fun. So after some late braking the squeak goes away.
