VF SS Ute LSA project

[SMS]

I'll be throwing in the clutch flywheel and coil packs with it. The thing drives perfectly and I'd be happy to take anyone for a drive in it before pulling it all out to give some reassurance. I'll be happy with $4000-$4500, but if I get $5000 then all the better.

Mostly choppers, Bobber's and cafe racers. But I have a thing for bikes with plenty of race appeal, so I love doing a sort of bobber/chopper style look but taken down a more race style approach. What I get asked to do can often be different story though.

Heres one I'm working on at the moment for example (just in mock up). We've built the bike from ground up but recently did a custom modified tank and handle bars for it to get a more aggressive stance. A hell of a lot of fabrication hours have gone into making a lot of neat little tricks work on this. Things no ones done before. Though I t's got plenty of the old school stuff on but I went all out on high end sports bike brake leavers along with ceramic composite front brakes etc. This bike starts out as a factory 07 Harley night train. Here's the Facebook page https://m.facebook.com/Speed-Metal-Sleds-1631623773755900/

 

[gtrboyy]

Yeah those 2300 Magnuson kits are nice bit of gear & do it easier than 1900 sized blower

 

[monstar]

I'm sure there's an easier way to get there but seems you dig mixing and matching!
How much torque at what RPM is your target? Is it momentary 100% outstanding power for less than 10 seconds or 75%-100% load all the time or what specifically are you building for, occasional weekend trucking bikes around?

 

[SMS]

I'm sure there's an easier way to get there but seems you dig mixing and matching!
How much torque at what RPM is your target? Is it momentary 100% outstanding power for less than 10 seconds or 75%-100% load all the time or what specifically are you building for, occasional weekend trucking bikes around?

Just a fun toy that I can get in every once in awhile, and if there so happens to be a track meet (strip or circuit) on and business doesn't have me tied up, I'll go and have a bit of fun. Moving bikes from our fabrication workshop will be vary rare.

The easier way is for me to buy a new motor and build from that. I work pretty much 7 days every week because I have taken too much work on. I literally do not have much spare time at all, even on a Sunday at the moment. So a crate motor means I can take as long as it takes to build it on the side in my spare time with no timeframes or deadlines, while still having the ute there to use if needed. When I pull the L77, I'll have another motor to drop in same day. I'm not sure how I could make it easier then that?

 

[monstar]

When I pull the L77, I'll have another motor to drop in same day. I'm not sure how I could make it easier then that?

No there's nothing quicker than have a spare engine to replace the one you're taking out, for sure. But that's not the case with an LSA.
What I meant by easier was rather than buying a new motor and changing slugs, pulleys, bolting up all the band aids that hold together a shitty proposition in the first place (bolting a supercharged >520 kW CO2 furnace in an occasional ute) that you buy a cheap motor clone for around $2500.
Genuinely shooting for >520 kW at the fly is going to break things, yet NA 500 kW allows good safe margin without rebuilding a race car.
Consider L77 with VVT on flex fuel can build more torque and hp than an LS9 on 98 but run hard all day. Essentially a teardown, crack test, full race overhaul, line honed, blueprinted, balanced. Swap slugs and rods to raise static 14:1, manage BMEP / DCR and flex fuel in tune with stock ECU, basic resonance tuned induction and exhaust mods.
The core of such a hipo LS build is thermal efficiency and usable duty without the need for band aids on the fuel system, cooling system, transmission and other Frankenstein mix and match bolt-ons.
So why LSA block and its web, oil squirters, crank, head meat, when an easier, safer and cheaper alternative that's reliable at 500 kW will cost less than $10k all up.
Go all day every day NA.

 

[SMS]

No there's nothing quicker than have a spare engine to replace the one you're taking out, for sure. But that's not the case with an LSA.
What I meant by easier was rather than buying a new motor and changing slugs, pulleys, bolting up all the band aids that hold together a shitty proposition in the first place (bolting a supercharged >520 kW CO2 furnace in an occasional ute) that you buy a cheap motor clone for around $2500.
Genuinely shooting for >520 kW at the fly is going to break things, yet NA 500 kW allows good safe margin without rebuilding a race car.
Consider L77 with VVT on flex fuel can build more torque and hp than an LS9 on 98 but run hard all day. Essentially a teardown, crack test, full race overhaul, line honed, blueprinted, balanced. Swap slugs and rods to raise static 14:1, manage BMEP / DCR and flex fuel in tune with stock ECU, basic resonance tuned induction and exhaust mods.
The core of such a hipo LS build is thermal efficiency and usable duty without the need for band aids on the fuel system, cooling system, transmission and other Frankenstein mix and match bolt-ons.
So why LSA block and its web, oil squirters, crank, head meat, when an easier, safer and cheaper alternative that's reliable at 500 kW will cost less than $10k all up.
Go all day every day NA.

I understand where you're coming from, but I've been down that path before and N/A motors just don't do it for me anymore. I've had 500kw at the fly wheel na motors you had to rev the ring out of to get going, and like anything once you get use the power, it gets old. you just can't get the same low end torque from an NA as you can from FI. It will break things no doubt about that, but wether it starts from an LSA or my L77, I'm going FI on this one

 

[monstar]

I understand where you're coming from, but I've been down that path before and N/A motors just don't do it for me anymore. I've had 500kw at the fly wheel na motors you had to rev the ring out of to get going, and like anything once you get use the power, it gets old. you just can't get the same low end torque from an NA as you can from FI. It will break things no doubt about that, but wether it starts from an LSA or my L77, I'm going FI on this one

Probably with a retarded cam to make the power, yeah. But add a cam phaser and tune the VVT continuously and you can dial in "max boost" as in 17.27 Bar BMEP from first RPM away from idle. VE and compression increases immediately at WOT not through external means but combustion phasing. WOT is 100% of course so is a throttleless boost effect like FI, still perfect manners, basically tunable continuously variable VTEC for the LS. My car tuned as above gets 834 Nm 5900 rpm, 405.7 rwkw @ 6400. Really efficient, relatively cheap, and I drive it really hard every day for the past 300k km.
Seems like a lot of work trying to get there and stay happy with an FI compromise otherwise.
But yeah, supercharged sounds like super, so more impressive to more people. Also makes sense to muck around and invest in all that work if you are looking to pump more than 410 kw out the rear most of the time.

 

[SMS]

I just don't see the point in maxing out in NA with power i won't be happy with, even if it was half the cost. I appreciate what you're trying to help me see, but I've already played with that kind of power and I'd like to step it up this time. My brother just punched out a 1000hp in his streeter, so I gives there's a bit of rivery added there too. Actually my whole family are punching big numbers, I'm getting left behind

 

[harrop.senator]

^^ this is why my 461 is receiving a holset hx55. Riding 9/10 second bikes daily ruins " fast cars" for you.

 

[SMS]

^^ this is why my 461 is receiving a holset hx55. Riding 9/10 second bikes daily ruins " fast cars" for you.

This is probably half my problem too, riding a quick bike as my daily as well, everything feels twice as fast on a bike that you end up needing some serious power in a car to make it exciting