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VF SSVredline S1 or S2 supercharged

426Cuda

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My 2 cents..... if you are going to spend $20k on a blower / supporting mods I would do it on a series 1 base, due to the significant price difference. You could almost do your mods with the actual price difference if you shop smart in terms of both actual purchase and the mods.

for me I would do series 1. If you are flush with cash, and don’t mind do series 2.
Exactly.
 

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426Cuda

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Wow I have to say thank you to everyone for the great information provided so far.
So I may as well divulge the plan, I've got a Ranger that my wife has no desire to daily as she's happy with her Outlander.
So I've been looking at dealerships to see what was available and around what price mark they were pegged at, also cause I can't be arsed to sell privately the plan was to trade the Ford in for a SSV Redline.
Budget for the car would be around the $20-$40K mark without the trade in, with the trade in and the extra money I could save that would all go towards the allotted $20K set aside for mods.
This is where the dilemma starts with what base car to choose from as I've seen some VF S1's for under $30K with acceptable km's.
That along with a modest dealership trade in valuation could see me almost getting that car for almost nothing, which will never happen anyway.
So that's why the idea of an S1 with a blower, plus supporting mods and wheels is so tempting, but as @Forg said in his post if I was to spend the smae money on a S2 it would always yield more power.
Seriously I'm so lost in this build but I appreciate all of your comments and suggestions.

Yep and i agree with this ^ too Forg old boy. Except that the only real wingleboggerdy is the AFM lifters and even that is arguable.Which will be binned anyway. So, hypothetically if old AKKY's total budget is capped at say $60 -$80 gorillas then the VF L77 may be the better choice. Allowing for a full rebuild, stroker kit, heasds, nitrous, stall converter, smaller wheels with drag tyres etc to all be on the shopping list. It's a hamburger with the lot. Proper Aussie burger too. None of this Big Mac crap. Budda bing budda boom. Lights out. Like I said, it's a question of $.
@AKKY, Forg is right. Talk to your engine builder. Also read more, drive both cars, decide what you want from the car and how much you can afford or are willing to spend in attaing that. In other words, work to your budget

Realistically, what is your budget?

If I were in this situation I'd be grabbing an ex highway patrol from the auctions. A VF2 fpr the price of a VF. That's ~ a level playing field re cost, and there will always be one clear winner in that scenario.
 

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With that kind of budget, you'd go for one of these? Then spend a little less on the mods?
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/de...ehicles-gts-manual-my14/OAG-AD-18601440/?Cr=0

I'm assuming $20-30k on car then $10-20k on mods
Can't outshift an auto!! Makes a big difference even if the manual is making more power.
From what I've noticed on power figures a full exhaust otr tune on both s1 and S2 are 30rwkw in favour of the S2. That seems pretty accurate on GM motorsport dyno. Depends on how much mullah you got!
 

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Regarding the budget you guys are pretty much spot on, car plus mods will roughly be exactly as you said @426Cuda, $60-$80K is around what I would like to spend in total.
Keeping it as low as possible will also save my spot in the bed next to the wife as from what I've seen the seats in the VF just isn't as comfy as a bed.
 

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Regarding the budget you guys are pretty much spot on, car plus mods will roughly be exactly as you said @426Cuda, $60-$80K is around what I would like to spend in total.
Keeping it as low as possible will also save my spot in the bed next to the wife as from what I've seen the seats in the VF just isn't as comfy as a bed.
Keep some aside when your making massive power, because youl end up no doubt breaking things!
 

Forg

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Can't outshift an auto!! Makes a big difference even if the manual is making more power.
From what I've noticed on power figures a full exhaust otr tune on both s1 and S2 are 30rwkw in favour of the S2. That seems pretty accurate on GM motorsport dyno. Depends on how much mullah you got!
I know there are blower kits that'll fit to anything, and nett you similar power to an HSV GTR ... applying one to an LS3 would probably get you, what, maybe 10kW over applying the same kit to an L77?

My question, though, relates to the gearbox.
I know that for drag racing you really need the auto to do your best times. But what're the power-handling capabilities comparing the Holden-fitted manual & the Holden-fitted auto? If chasing more power than "blower and tune and airbox and exhaust", what's involved gearbox-wise, do you need to upgrade it regardless (eg. HSV fitted beefier 'boxen to their LSA & LS9 cars didn't they?).

*edit*
And now I think about it, the above really all translates to "talk to your chosen tuner about it", doesn't it?
 
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Derekthetree

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Can't outshift an auto!!

DSG maybe but a normal torque converter? Depends on the user :p. Plus so much more enjoyment from the car. I'm biased!

as from what I've seen the seats in the VF just isn't as comfy as a bed.

HSV seats are much nicer :D
I agree it sounds a complicated equation, but a nice one to be considering. I think a chat to your preferred mechanic sounds the best idea, get the best back for your buck.
I'd also throw in the complication of gadgets, interior and spec if its going to be a daily. Lots of subtle changes between VF and VF2. Sorry!
 

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DSG maybe but a normal torque converter? Depends on the user :p. Plus so much more enjoyment from the car. I'm biased!
The enjoyment is a MASSIVE thing for me, but I'm not kidding myself ... even the fastest gear-changing person in the world won't be as fast as even the poxy standard 6L80 or whatever's in the SSVR, especially not if we're talking in the drag-race context.
In standard tune it's a moron, that 'box, in normal driving it'll hold you in 6th gear as you slowly-slowly push the pedal harder & harder wanting to go just that little bit faster without making a fuss; then suddenly you'll reach whatever kickdown threshold it's got, it'll change down to 2nd & rev the snot outta the engine & you'll take off & need to apply the brakes (and there goes your "just want to calmly go a little bit faster"). But despite all that ... if you just want to go FASTER (flatten the foot or use manual mode) it'll keep the power going to the wheels for way more of the time than anyone can in a manual.

Yeah DSG is faster again (when not broken) and The Dummies think it's acceptable when a slushbox isn't because they've been sold on the image thing, but manuals are both slower & thirstier than autos have been for ... geez, it's probably been close to 20 years now?

Regarding those HSV seats, and if you're looking at it in performance terms, the entry-price for an HSV is disproportionate to what you get. They're just that tiny bit nicer in a few small areas, but comparing LS3 cars the value's not really there in performance terms.

I do kinda wonder, now you've said HSV, whether the overall cost of ownership might be LOWER if one were to buy an LSA HSV. A lot of the mods are already done, and whereas spending $20k on a $50k VF2 SSVR will result in a car worth maybe $55k (when someone finally buys it because most of the buyers won't want an unknown-quantity modded car), buying a $70k LSA Clubbie results in a car worth $70k ...
 
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