Vf sv6 trying to install a sub

[CaptaiinCaveman_]

Hey, so ive just got a new vf sv6 the other day and loving the car so far except the speakers. Lacks a bit of bass imho, so i am trying to install a sub, already have the wiring required, sub, amp and the LOC but i am not sure how to access the rear speaker cables. I am quite hesitant to pry off the head unit trims as i dont want to scratch a week old car haha. Was quoted 200 by a shop for installation, consifering i just need for find 2 pair of cables, that cost isnt really justifiable. So just wondering if there is any other place i can intercept the cables and splice into them?
Thanks

 

[Wongy295]

The best place would be behind the headunit, as you can access both left and right from the one plug, but you also access them in the kick panels under the dash.

Edit

Remove this piece of trim
http://imgur.com/a/yCKxB

Then remove this piece
http://i.imgur.com/AerHa4A.jpg

You'll find the left side speaker wires you need.

Obviously the same for the right side.

Do you need colours of the wires? I have them at home on my computer if you need.

 

[CaptaiinCaveman_]

The best place would be behind the headunit, as you can access both left and right from the one plug, but you also access them in the kick panels under the dash.

Edit

Remove this piece of trim
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Then remove this piece
http://i.imgur.com/AerHa4A.jpg

You'll find the left side speaker wires you need.

Obviously the same for the right side.

Do you need colours of the wires? I have them at home on my computer if you need.

that'll be great if you can!!! appreciate your help.

 

[Nitro_X]

What LOC are you going to install?

 

[Wongy295]

Firstly, here is the wiring diagram for the VF Sedan. I'm assuming you have a sedan.

Speaker schematic

Left Front Signal Blue - Brown/Blue
Left Rear Signal Green - Green/Black
Right Front Signal Yellow - Yellow/Black
Right Rear Signal White - Blue Black

You obviously need to only pick 1 pair from each side.

The issue the the VF is that the indicator and reverse beeps and made in the headunit. If you take the signal from the front speakers, and turn your gains too high, the sensors and indicators become VERY loud. After emailing and calling 4 or 5 audio places, they couldn't help me.

I wanted my gains higher and my stereo quite loud, so I tapped into the rear channels, as they get the same music feed, but without the front sensors beep.

The only downside of doing this, is I now have no front beeper (I still have the picture and lines in the MyLink screen, so when it turns red, I know to stop) and I have no indicator noise (which is kind of a plus anyway - haha!)

 

[Nitro_X]

Tapping into the speaker output line for the Sub is dodgy, especially considering it's a late model VF worth $30,000+
Why not spend the $200 and get it installed properly. (if you don't know how to do it properly yourself)

 

[Wongy295]

Tapping into the speaker output line for the Sub is dodgy, especially considering it's a late model VF worth $30,000+
Why not spend the $200 and get it installed properly. (if you don't know how to do it properly yourself)

Could you elaborate in how it's 'dodgy'?

Sorry if I sound like a knob, I genuinely would like to hear your trail of thought.

 

[CaptaiinCaveman_]

What LOC are you going to install?

Its a fusion loc, just installed it n works perfectly

Firstly, here is the wiring diagram for the VF Sedan. I'm assuming you have a sedan.

Speaker schematic

Left Front Signal Blue - Brown/Blue
Left Rear Signal Green - Green/Black
Right Front Signal Yellow - Yellow/Black
Right Rear Signal White - Blue Black

You obviously need to only pick 1 pair from each side.

The issue the the VF is that the indicator and reverse beeps and made in the headunit. If you take the signal from the front speakers, and turn your gains too high, the sensors and indicators become VERY loud. After emailing and calling 4 or 5 audio places, they couldn't help me.

I wanted my gains higher and my stereo quite loud, so I tapped into the rear channels, as they get the same music feed, but without the front sensors beep.

The only downside of doing this, is I now have no front beeper (I still have the picture and lines in the MyLink screen, so when it turns red, I know to stop) and I have no indicator noise (which is kind of a plus anyway - haha!)

Thanks for the input mate, had a look around other places and found the wiring codes, but thanks for your input anyway, im sure someome will appreciate everything thats needed for sub install in one place.
I realised that there wasnt any indicator noise n thought i messed up somewhere lol but now i know haha. Luckily i tapped into the rear speakers so dont have to mess up my ears with the sensor noises.
Ill put up pics later regardimg the install, looks neat haha

Tapping into the speaker output line for the Sub is dodgy, especially considering it's a late model VF worth $30,000+
Why not spend the $200 and get it installed properly. (if you don't know how to do it properly yourself)

Just finished the install mate by taking the head u it out, but realised later that the method by Wongy295 wouldve worked aswell. wasnt too hard, only thing i can imgine a shop would do better would be the cable management in the boot haha other than that, pretty easy if you know what your doing.

 

[Nitro_X]

Ok, my bad, sorry, I was thinking of after market head units that have built in 'line level' RCA connections.
I see the VF and VE factory head units don't have this feature, therefore the need to tap the speaker output wires with an LOC

The correct way would be to use an RCA 'line out' from the head unit. (if they have them)
The line out provides a fixed voltage level which is a known standard and does not require the addition of an LOC in the speaker output wires.
This provides the best signal input and removes the possibility of distortion in the audio signal, or other signal problems such as impedance matching and ground loop hum/buzz etc..

However, rather than use an LOC, I would prefer to buy a sub amp which has a "high level input" that would basically help eliminate any potential audio signal issues of using an LOC, and save the cost of buying one.

Anyway....carry on chaps

 

[CaptaiinCaveman_]

Ok, my bad, sorry, I was thinking of after market head units that have built in 'line level' RCA connections.
I see the VF and VE factory head units don't have this feature, therefore the need to tap the speaker output wires with an LOC

The correct way would be to use an RCA 'line out' from the head unit. (if they have them)
The line out provides a fixed voltage level which is a known standard and does not require the addition of an LOC in the speaker output wires.
This provides the best signal input and removes the possibility of distortion in the audio signal, or other signal problems such as impedance matching and ground loop hum/buzz etc..

However, rather than use an LOC, I would prefer to buy a sub amp which has a "high level input" that would basically help eliminate any potential audio signal issues of using an LOC, and save the cost of buying one.

Anyway....carry on chaps

yea the stock head unit doesnt have RCAs coming out of them, but i do feel stupid cause i just checked and my amp does indeed have high input speaker inputs -.- but the LOC works without any issues for now so ill just leave it there haha gonna keep it in mind next time