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VF2 Redline Ute

panhead

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Yea it looks great as is mate. My standard exhaust scrapes at the cats on some speed bumps now, so I would say when you put your headers on you could have an issue if any lower.
Thanks for the heads up.

My last Ute was lower and it would sometimes scrap at the centre mufflers but never at the headers or cats and they are to this day mark free.

Yesterday the OEM system scrapped at the centre going over a very high speed hump and I would expect the 3 inch to do the same, it’s one of the joys of lowered cars.

I will wait though and see what the clearances are before making any more, if any adjustments.
 

panhead

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Looks really good. Colour, rims, ride height - spot on. Sounds like you're really looking after it.
Thanks mate, I’m retired so I’m lucky enough to be able to give it all the time I want and I also find cleaning cars to be therapeutic which takes being a chore out of the equation.
 

Maloo37

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Hey panhead your ute looks awesome. I cant wait to I get mine late June. Love the rims I am going for a similar looking rim myself.
But I want to ask you about removing rear lion badge with out damaging the paint, how did you do it looks a lot better without
 
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panhead

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Hey panhead your ute looks awesome. I cant wait to I get mine late June. Love the rims I am going for a similar looking rim myself.
But I want to ask you about removing rear lion badge with out damaging the paint, how did you do it looks a lot better without
On the Utes (unlike the sedans which can have pins and holes in the boot lid) the badge is held on by a very thin layer of rubberised adhesive and nothing else.

My procedure:

I used a hairdryer to heat the area and soften the adhesive.
(This takes about 20 to 30 seconds)

I sprayed a little bit of Clay Bar Lube just above the badge and let it run down to give a slippy surface to work with.
(Any reasonable quick detailer would also do the job)

I used about an 18 inch length of Dental Floss wrapped around the fingers on each hand and with a slight sawing action I slowly cut through the bond between the panel and the adhesive.
(I use Dental Floss as I find it to be much thinner and gentler than fishing line and less chance of leaving a rub mark. You may find that the floss can easily break so it may be necessary to use 3 or 4 pieces to finish the job. It took me about 30 second to remove the badge and two pieces of floss)

In my case the badge and adhesive came completely clear of the panel and all I needed to do was give the panel another spray with lube and a wipe with a mircofibre to clean up the area.
(If by chance you do leave a little adhesive residue on the panel, use a citrus spray intended for removing sticky substances and it will come straight off and then wipe with detailer. Alternatively use your finger nail being careful not to mark the clear coat and gently lift the adhesive from the panel, it should then pull away in a strip)

I’ve debadged a lot of cars over the years and never marked a panel with this method but I have seen some where fishing line has left a rub mark. If this happens a machine polish will remove it almost instantly or if that is not available to you then a good mild hand polish will also work. Follow it up with a bit of wax or paint sealer to replace any protection you may have had on the car.



.
 
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barnesnor

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Removed all the badges from my brand new redline sedan to replace them with matte black badges when it was brand new, was nerve racking having never done it before but came off a treat.
1. Spray around the badge with WD40 and leave for a couple of minutes
2. Using the thinnest gauge fishing line you can find saw through adhesive as panhead suggested and as you do pull forward slightly so you are sawing away from the body of the car
3. Once done you should have a nice layer of adhesive left on the body letting you know you didn't scrape the surface. Use a rag and some more WD40 to clean off. Done!
 

Maloo37

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On the Utes (unlike the sedans which can have pins and holes in the boot lid) the badge is held on by a very thin layer of rubberised adhesive and nothing else.

My procedure:

I used a hairdryer to heat the area and soften the adhesive.
(This takes about 20 to 30 seconds)

I sprayed a little bit of Clay Bar Lube just above the badge and let it run down to give a slippy surface to work with.
(Any reasonable quick detailer would also do the job)

I used about an 18 inch length of Dental Floss wrapped around the fingers on each hand and with a slight sawing action I slowly cut through the bond between the panel and the adhesive.
(I use Dental Floss as I find it to be much thinner and gentler than fishing line and less chance of leaving a rub mark. You may find that the floss can easily break so it may be necessary to use 3 or 4 pieces to finish the job. It took me about 30 second to remove the badge and two pieces of floss)

In my case the badge and adhesive came completely clear of the panel and all I needed to do was give the panel another spray with lube and a wipe with a mircofibre to clean up the area.
(If by chance you do leave a little adhesive residue on the panel, use a citrus spray intended for removing sticky substances and it will come straight off and then wipe with detailer. Alternatively use your finger nail being careful not to mark the clear coat and gently lift the adhesive from the panel, it should then pull away in a strip)

I’ve debadged a lot of cars over the years and never marked a panel with this method but I have seen some where fishing line has left a rub mark. If this happens a machine polish will remove it almost instantly or if that is not available to you then a good mild hand polish will also work. Follow it up with a bit of wax or paint sealer to replace any protection you may have had on the car.



.
Thanks mate will be following your instructions, looking forward to getting my ute and I am happy to hear no pin holes that was my biggest concern
 

zolsaschnitzel

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Removed all the badges from my brand new redline sedan to replace them with matte black badges when it was brand new, was nerve racking having never done it before but came off a treat.
1. Spray around the badge with WD40 and leave for a couple of minutes
2. Using the thinnest gauge fishing line you can find saw through adhesive as panhead suggested and as you do pull forward slightly so you are sawing away from the body of the car
3. Once done you should have a nice layer of adhesive left on the body letting you know you didn't scrape the surface. Use a rag and some more WD40 to clean off. Done!

So definitely no locator holes for the boot badge on the new Redline sedan barnesnor??? Want to do the same thing to my baby this weekend.

Bit nervous like you were and just wanted confirmation from someone that has ACTUALLY done it on a sedan. I know the front one will be fine...

Cheers
 
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