VH Commodore 426 Small block Chev build

[Roberts]

He does some nice work!

That commy will be wicked fun launching off the line with slicks.

He does indeed... the best I've seen in QLD. The car is running 275 street et's using a Pro9 tubular lower control arms and adjustable uppers and mini tubbed.

 

[gtrboyy]

Bet it would make my 11sec vh feel like a snail compared to that.

Don't mind the pro9 gear from pics I've seen.

 

[Roberts]

Bet it would make my 11sec vh feel like a snail compared to that.

Don't mind the pro9 gear from pics I've seen.

11 second street car is quick as in anyones language - I had a holden 355 early headed combo with a toplaoder in it before, ran 12.5 compression and had a crane solid cc320a camshaft I couldnt get that thing into the 11's yet it showed up quick a few on the street..,.

 

[gtrboyy]

True 11sec car is still quick just that so many think 10's is easy to do with right gear or automatically think every tough ol' holden does 10's or quicker.

It's got all the gear just needs major sorting out to see just how quick it will go...2 bolt main f280 355 Harrop single plane 4500 stall/trimatic 4.56 gears.

Actually thought about going manual or maybe just nicer heads & higher stall speed.

You fitting coilovers or just moving shockers? Transbrake?

Wondered if removing front sway bar works better on these like kingies/torries or just makes them launch worse.

 

[Roberts]

True 11sec car is still quick just that so many think 10's is easy to do with right gear or automatically think every tough ol' holden does 10's or quicker.

It's got all the gear just needs major sorting out to see just how quick it will go...2 bolt main f280 355 Harrop single plane 4500 stall/trimatic 4.56 gears.

Actually thought about going manual or maybe just nicer heads & higher stall speed.

You fitting coilovers or just moving shockers? Transbrake?

Wondered if removing front sway bar works better on these like kingies/torries or just makes them launch worse.

F280 is a great cam for the mighty VN headed 355 combo.. As long as your manifold and heads are ported to suit it should go like a freight train.. With 4.56 gears it must launch alright hope you got some tyre under it.

No coil overs or transbrake I might do all that later, I wanted to build a true pump fuel 9 second street car that I could drive around with standard suspension mounts etc. After I've done that I'll lighten the car, spend time and money on getting suspension setup for better 60 foot times. Its taken me two years to get the car nearly done so I intend on spending the next two years just cruising and enjoying it... lol

 

[gtrboyy]

Something with your power I'd want to transbrake on street with slicks lmao.


Mine launches like it's on wet grass....it's tubbed with mcdonalds bros kit,305/50/15 on 15x10 rim,rear end was set up poorly & fuel setup was worse starving/surging up high in top gear so pulled it apart to fix properly.

Now I'm trying to find someone trustworthy who does good work so it can hit the road again...if it does crack a 10 that will be last time I race it.

Those pro9 arms are said to need lowered springs as perch sits on top of arm...tbh found off the shelf aftermarket springs not to work as good as softer stock springs...good thing though is those pro9 arms give ton of tyre clearance & won't bend like factory control arm.

Adjustable top arm will sort pinion angle but really should reinforced top control arm bracket with ol' skool thick plate inside car before it rips itself out...

Standard rear end setups can be made to hook up nicely just finding nicer way to shockers inside the rail for more tyre clearance without resorting to coil-overs is a pita.

 

[Roberts]

Something with your power I'd want to transbrake on street with slicks lmao.


Mine launches like it's on wet grass....it's tubbed with mcdonalds bros kit,305/50/15 on 15x10 rim,rear end was set up poorly & fuel setup was worse starving/surging up high in top gear so pulled it apart to fix properly.

Now I'm trying to find someone trustworthy who does good work so it can hit the road again...if it does crack a 10 that will be last time I race it.

Those pro9 arms are said to need lowered springs as perch sits on top of arm...tbh found off the shelf aftermarket springs not to work as good as softer stock springs...good thing though is those pro9 arms give ton of tyre clearance & won't bend like factory control arm.

Adjustable top arm will sort pinion angle but really should reinforced top control arm bracket with ol' skool thick plate inside car before it rips itself out...

Standard rear end setups can be made to hook up nicely just finding nicer way to shockers inside the rail for more tyre clearance without resorting to coil-overs is a pita.

Got a pic of your rear setup with the tyres I'd love to see?? I dont have a spring for the rear as yet with the Pro9 arms one of the guys from HPE were sorting a custom spring to run with. That's happening in January as that's the same time with the rest of the fabwork at Monro Race Cars. The shock will be standard for the moment(moved inwards slightly) but I have purchased a set of Viking double adjustables for when the time comes to change over.

The lower control arm front has been boxed and strengthened and tied into the roll cage - was watching a vid the other day of a VK turbo blue meanie that runs a bar from the front of the lower control arm to the front of the car itself also which i thought was interesting. Haven't actually done anything with the top control arm strengthening so I might talk to the guys when it goes into the fab shop about that but makes sense. The reason i haven't thought much about it is I haven't heard of any problems but better to do it right the first time.

Always appreciate talking to people with experience...

I've got a mate who has a silver Vk commodore running a 355 built by HPE with a trimatic and borgy diff that has run a best of 10.18 so far.. VP MS109 Race fuel, pipes dropped and 235 street et's - interesting you'd be shocked as to how standard the rear suspension is setup on this car. The trimatic isnt trans braked but he does run a dominator 6000rpm stall..

 

[gtrboyy]

adjustable top arms to correct pinion angle & 255-275/60/15 with decent shock/spring setup usually enough to get most low 10's & some into 9's.

Most of the other work is to keep car's rear end from tearing apart like new trend of linking front rail to lower control arm bracket for more strength.

Mine has started to unpick top control arm bracket off the body mainly from spool + big tyres + poly bushes & ton of street driving....plan is truetrac & reinforcing body brackets.

Rear end of mine super tight & bit ugly tbh...they tried to keep factory tank but with coilovers,tailpipe,panhard etc it was difficult to set up which is why setup sucks for traction...atleast mofo is engineered for the tubs.

Yep seen bit of that silver vh-k when it ran low 10's.

 

[Lacksballs]

Here is a pic for the strengthening bar from "ALLSHOW" VK that MPW Performance built.

Forward lower control arm mount to front chassis.

 

[sickboy]

Here is a pic for the strengthening bar from "ALLSHOW" VK that MPW Performance built.

Forward lower control arm mount to front chassis.

View attachment 196110

That's what I'm gonna try out.