VH LS1 Conversions

[xmick]

I went manual so prob cost me an extra 2-3k including buying the box

Engine and box I got from comm wreck 4k they were pretty good, anything from the doner car I wanted and the gave me a heap of bits for free like a vs 80L tank and steering rack.

The v6 conversions kit was 3k, mounts, custom k-frame, gearbox xmember, wiring harness (relays, bcm etc), headers.

Its all the little things that add up there's another few thousand there even if you get the parts right first time., fuel lines, fittings, pump, reg, tailshaft, diff, radiator (vl doesn't fit bottom pipe is to low) fans, filters.

then there's engineering.

still, once you drive one = awesome

 

[witzl]

is manual really that much more expensive than auto?

 

[xmick]

The T56 cost more to buy plus fitting pedal box and master cylinder.

Old commodore are set up to pull the cable not push to the master. The easy option is the $800 Mal Woods pedal box which is all under dash and included hoses and pipes etc. I tried to do it cheaper modifying VH pedal box with the VX master and a Dellow adapter to mount it in the engine bay. Still cost about $600 anyway and many hours screwing around, next time I would just pay the extra.

For the auto its just join the shifter linkages and use the standard VH shifter. There's a thread on Street comm forum with a guy thats done it in a VH, lots of photos.

 

[witzl]

yeah i just found that thread on street commodores forum... thanks for the heads up.

I see what you mean about going the path of manual.... if there isnt a simple/cheap bolt in option for hydraulic clutch, then that could be a right PITA.

Thanks for all the advice guys

 

[OFF T4P]

Vl radiators do fit got a pwr rb30 radiator fits perfect all pipes line up good. If you do decide to go auto. Use a turbo 400. Alls you need is a spacer for the flex plate and you can use a th 400 convertor with out getting a custom one made up. It would also be a cheaper then the other auto or a manual. Should be able to get a good th400 an convertor for under a grand and the spacer fr the flex plate is around 200. No messing around with all the wiring and **** to get every thing working like you would have todo with the new autos.

 

[OFF T4P]

You can get away with leaving the starter where it is if you run manual steering rack and use a mini starter you will have enough room for your headers. All depends on what mounts you are using. Tuff mounts are probably the best ones out there IMO anyway.

 

[witzl]

where do you get this "mini" starter motor from?

Been talking to my mate, and he's pretty set on going the path of the 6 speed T56. His words "you dont go auto for a sunday car".... i cant argue with that!
He's a tradie, so no chance the car would be seeing daily driving duties at all.


So my questions now are.... when looking at buying an engine and gearbox, should we look at buying a complete package being:
- engine
- gearbox
- loom
- ECU (and BCM??)
- factory headers
- tailshaft


Or..... do we just get the engine with all accessories (aircon, alternator, ps pump, etc), gearbox and tailshaft...... and then buy a converted wiring loom and ECU from someone who has stripped out all the crap so you dont have to use the BCM and matched key??

What's the best way to go?

Cheers for all the help again guys. This is a bit of a learning curve for both of us - he hasnt played with Holdens since owning a LJ Torona with turbo red motor, and i play with toyotas. So between us we dont know that much about LS conversions.

 

[xmick]

Mine is a daily that's why I went manual. Auto is for driving in a straight line.

I went the full second hand with all the accessories as I wanted to use most of them (no ac yet but one day.....) . It depends what standard you want, all new gear, crate engine/box. For me 100,000 km was ok, still puts 240bhp at the wheels running a factory tune.

The loom and ECU are usually exchange, my kit came with a plug in adapter loom and a BCM simulator so no need to modify the originals.

The Holden starter is a mini compared to the US models, the LH conversion ones are CAE i think.

 

[witzl]

Cheers xmick.
Exchange loom and ECU does make sense.... so basically the idea is to buy the full package including loom and ecu then.

I suppose then it would cost closer to $10k going with a manual box. YOu might be able to squeeze it for less, but probably all comes down to how cheaply you get the engine and box package for.

BTW - did the headers in the V6 Conversions kit fit pretty easily?
Have you got a build thread i can look through at all?

 

[xmick]

the headers were ok, not perfect, no I didn't do a build thread