VH Radiator replacement

[SLE-883]

Looking at replacing the radiator in the VH. It works well at the moment and doesn't leak but look like it has been hit by a rock and the fins are all bent.

What have others upgraded to? I like the look of PWR but can't justify the price. I was also considering JAR.

I would like the radiator to be alloy of course and be installed using the factory mounts. It also needs to be able to cope with 500Hp @fly and if possible fit the standard shroud or at least come with it's own shroud that will take the standard clutch fan.

 

[NPreston]

I have had a Fenix radiator in my track VC for the last 4 years or so and it does the job really well. Make sure to earth it and flush the system thoroughly. I assumed they were Chinese but later found that they are a New Zealand company. They are listed on their website at $484.00.

 

[SLE-883]

I was just looking at them.

Holden Commodore VB VC VH VK V8 Full Alloy Stealth Performance Radiator

What top hose did you run. VC hose or VL?

 

[Smitty]

.. I went the cheap no-name chinese alloy jobbie on my race car
ex Fleabay, bolts in like the factory one.. but does need a VL top hose (as the top outlet is straight not bent)
still for a bit over $200 it has done the job for the past 4 or 5 years ( I run water + Penrite RACE additive only)



I originally had a JAR one when I first built the car back in 2005/6 but after copping a rock thru it at Phillip Island,
it was cheaper (and quicker) to buy another radiator

I run the oil cooler in front and there are no issues in cooling the car (water temp never goes over 95) ---





as mentioned make sure the thing is grounded and there are no stray leccy currents to disolve your radiator

 

[DerekP]

*Quick thread highjack*

Hi Smitty - I noticed you have an in-hose radiator filter fitted to the above very sweet looking donk - do you find it very effective and worthwhile having? I have had one sitting in my toolbox for years and have never gotten round to fitting it and was curiuos as to what you thought of them?

Cheers

Derek

 

[Smitty]

*Quick thread highjack*

Hi Smitty - I noticed you have an in-hose radiator filter fitted to the above very sweet looking donk - do you find it very effective and worthwhile having? I have had one sitting in my toolbox for years and have never gotten round to fitting it and was curiuos as to what you thought of them?

Cheers

Derek

a necessity in my opinion. My engines all get the dunk in the tank to clean them up before machining
and another swim after machining so you would reckon even the inner parts of the block
would be clean. But that top hose filter still traps flakey bits of rust (bits of block actually)passing thru
the cooling system (it gets cleaned out after every event) A must have with a cast iron block...
(the TEFBA filters are cheap.. 'bout $65 from memory)

 

[DerekP]

a necessity in my opinion. My engines all get the dunk in the tank to clean them up before machining
and another swim after machining so you would reckon even the inner parts of the block
would be clean. But that top hose filter still traps flakey bits of rust (bits of block actually)passing thru
the cooling system (it gets cleaned out after every event) A must have with a cast iron block...
(the TEFBA filters are cheap.. 'bout $65 from memory)

Some good points made thanks. Since my car sits around for weeks (sometimes months) without being driven it would be a good idea to catch all the sh!t passing through the cooling system when I do fire it up, so I reckon I will put that on the list of chores for this weekend....!

Thanks again.

Derek

 

[luxcis]

What are the differences between a manual/auto radiator for a VH 202 blue engine auto sedan that you can spot straight away by eye ?
1) is it the curved, stand-off filler neck. (auto has this , while manual filler sits flush on tank)
2) the transmission fluid ports. (manual has an open pipe inside with blanked-off wall behind thread at the ports, and auto has same pipe sealed both ends with an inner pipe with hole-perforations sitting inside the larger pipe ? )

I've had 4 ADRAD units in a row which sprang leaks from electrolysis, even with current leakage reduced by earths. Just bought the 4th by mail order. It looks according to what I've written above but I'm not sure of my facts in what I've written above.

Does Adrad have a bad reputation ? I have the aluminium "Worley" unit but I wasn't game to install it because they're the ones with the bad reputation.

 

[Vin999]

What are the differences between a manual/auto radiator for a VH 202 blue engine auto sedan that you can spot straight away by eye ?
1) is it the curved, stand-off filler neck. (auto has this , while manual filler sits flush on tank)
2) the transmission fluid ports. (manual has an open pipe inside with blanked-off wall behind thread at the ports, and auto has same pipe sealed both ends with an inner pipe with hole-perforations sitting inside the larger pipe ? )

I've had 4 ADRAD units in a row which sprang leaks from electrolysis, even with current leakage reduced by earths. Just bought the 4th by mail order. It looks according to what I've written above but I'm not sure of my facts in what I've written above.

Does Adrad have a bad reputation ? I have the aluminium "Worley" unit but I wasn't game to install it because they're the ones with the bad reputation.

yep your facts seem correct, filler neck and auto trans lines to radiator being the difference.

I have never heard of 4 copper cores leaking in a row before, but have seen/heard plenty of cheap ebay alloy go from electrolysis, The good alloy ones should have a sacrifical anode inside like a hot water service unit to wear from incompactibility with other metals and electrolysis to prevent wear in cores.

I use only the copper cores and have had no issues with 355/ls1 in older cars, wouldn't trust the cheap ebay alloy sheet.

 

[losh1971]

I have a Worley full alloy, it's been in for close to 18 months and it seems ok. Kinda wished I'd went for a three core V8 one as even though mine is quite thick, it doesn't seem to cool the engine all that much better than a stock V6 rad, even though it takes around an extra 1L over stock. Mine is not showing any signs of corrosion but it's early days. If this thread gets a mention in another two years I will report back on how mine is going.