6.0ltr into VK Calais
Thought I would do a write up of what I have encountered and also what costs I have outlaid to get the 6.0 into my vk Calais 333 pack
This will be in no particular order and I will try to explain current setup as it will be different as most cars are of this age
I am not a mechanic, I don’t claim to have done everything or anything ‘right’ this is just what I have done and found through this process.
I am also an English major or completed a decent level of education so this is written like a child with poor lay out
As with all conversions there are quite a few unseen things to be done and purchased (as expected) but the do add up, I have searched the forums and not found a current price costing so this is a current price out lay
there is some work that needed to be completed that I did not find out in my research but once again could be different between car to car but if you get one tip out of spending the time reading through this mess it will prob be worth it
I have compared products and shopped around and checked reviews, lots of opinions out there including this one but this is my view
I will itemise as best I can with links if (If can get them, they may not be current by the time you read this thread but you should be able to locate them or similar from description)
This should be a close representation of cost to my project and I am sure I may forget a couple of things but will do my best
Starting point (things that are applicable)
VK Calais 333 pack
V8 auto as stated in the 333pack
TH350( keeping in this conversion atm)
Vk v8 diff with 3.9s
Fuel lines ect located in standard location
Ally drop tank with 3 -8an welded in lugs
Use of this car will be a daily driver and not a show car so hidden wiring and super clean is not the direction
Second hand / used Parts required
Wreckers
I did consider donor car but could not find suitable one with correct trans (4L60e) combined with low k engine these are the best fit in the autos
6.0ltr 119000kms complete all accessories including cats / o2 sensors , air box, wiring harness, ecm , pedal, pedal controller, a/c comp, power steering ect. $4000
Side note the a/c apparently does not work with older style set up as they are setup for variable 9but someone might explain or correct me here) also the a/c compressor will not work in current location needs to be removed so when you drop engine in it will clear the rails – high mount single wire operation is what I will be going with there are few kits avail like this one
https://www.rodshop.com.au/ls1-ls2-ls3-high-mount-air-conditioner-kit.html
bit ugly on top of the motor will be interested to know if anyone has found and set up a tighter low mount one
Ls1 sump $150
Vl power rack and intermediate shaft $100
Vn K frame $150 – used all the vk gear on this bolts straight in – good idea to check all balls, bushes, rubbers, boots ect while you are doing this for licencing purposes as well as $$$ factor for your conversion they are quite cheap but can be a prick to change in the home workshop
CRS rod shop kit
From what I searched on line and for a complete kit to give a good start to the conversion this is what I used, I also used some of their other adaptors ect even though more expensive than other out there once postage was combined worked out cheaper
$2245
https://www.rodshop.com.au/holden/v...o-commodore-with-turbo-type-transmission.html
$25
https://www.rodshop.com.au/ls1-ls2-ls3-water-temp-sender-adaptor.html
$39.50
https://www.rodshop.com.au/ls1-ls2-ls3-and-up-oil-pressure-sender-adaptor.html
wiring harness needs to be modified I used these guys
https://www.ultimateconversionwiring.com.au/
$1500 dependant on what you want him to do of course, very knowledgeable guy – this also included speed sensor similar to below
– believe it is or the same as the Dakota digital
Please check your application as this may not be the exact one for you
https://www.google.com.au/aclk?sa=l...ahUKEwjB95m3xdHhAhXJZVAKHUGyAWcQwg8IRw&adurl=
I also require o2 sensor extensions 1000mm for driver and 800 for passenger and a 650 MAF sensor extension as I did not think of getting it extended to the length I required (something to look at before making harness)
- The harness on the drivers side should wrap around the back of the head and thread through the extractor tube of number 8cyc but due to clearance between extractors and head it would be too tight and cook in there so I have routed it through 6 and 4 cyc extractor tubes with heat glass wrap hence reason for drivers o2 sensor to be 1000mm long due to point of o2 sensor exiting harness if you are creating a clean/ show / tidy look this would have to be overcome (mine is a driver so this is not a concern for me- still a bit ugly though)
$112
https://www.ultimateconversionwiring.com.au/
air intake tube filter ect
found this link… good info on the tuning side of thins you cant just throw a new air intake on -maf or maf less and expect that the engine will be fine
https://www.oztrack.com.au/2013-09-27-06-14-12/tuning-ve-vf-hsv-holden
note… I have moved carbon canister from original location in the vk up under the driver’s side bumper attached to the cassis rail and routed my hoses through existing holes (not factory holes) this was to make room for the filter to mount in this location behind headlight
90 deg silicone elbow
Went with areoflow as the silicone legs are a bit longer and needed to clear around the front of the throttle body unit
$43.48
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-90-SILICONE-HOSE-ELBOW-BEND-AIR-INTAKE-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-PIPE-PIPING/122035198528?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=421047884308&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
ally 4" Inch 15 Degree Aluminium Turbo Intercooler Pipe Piping Tube Tubing L=610mm
$30
15 deg kink and 610mm as it needs to make it in to the carbon canister area directly behind light without sitting proud up against bonnet
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-4-Inch-15-Degree-Aluminum-Turbo-Intercooler-Pipe-Piping-Tube-Tubing-L-610mm/332904532566?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Stainless Steel Hose Clamp Adjustable 102mm x 4
$30
Self-explanatory
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-Adjustable-102mm-x-4/142171688339?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
K&N UNIVERSAL CHROME STRAIGHT FILTER - 4" (102mm) FLANGE - PART # RF-1007
$50
Went with this filter as it has a securing stud on the end so I can make a bracket as needs to be secured for licencing
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-UNIVERSAL-CHROME-STRAIGHT-FILTER-4-102mm-FLANGE-PART-RF-1007/252442420991?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
water plumbing
used 4 hoses 2 for top 2 for bottom just standard 38mm radiator hoses with 90deg bens and long tails to meet radiator requirements bottom hose used ally tubing to suit 38mm hose
$70 total
-top hose requires the bleed port from front of l98 to be plumbed back in to cooling system so I went to top hose with below fittings
AEROFLOW 38mm RADIATOR HOSE ADAPTER WITH 1/8" NPT TEMP SENDER PORT AF64-2238
$22
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-38mm-RADIATOR-HOSE-ADAPTER-WITH-1-8-NPT-TEMP-SENDER-PORT-AF64-2238/131346678521?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
AEROFLOW 90° MALE NPT TO HOSE BARB 1/8"NPT TO 5/16" BARB BLACK AF842-05BLK
$19
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-90-MALE-NPT-TO-HOSE-BARB-1-8-NPT-TO-5-16-BARB-BLACK-AF842-05BLK/131339236528?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
fuel system
ls series engine require between 48 – 58psi
I found these articles to be helpful to set up what you want to go with
https://hotrodfuelhose.com/blogs/ra...tion-for-ls-based-engines-and-efi-conversions
https://hotrodfuelhose.com/blogs/rad-hot-rod-fuel-hose-stuff/ls-swaps-what-you-need-for-fuel-line
I went the return style setup so these are the parts I used
Hard line, I already had ½ hard line feeding the previous engine but run in the standard location, this is an issue due to running so close to the extractors. Also the l98 fuel inlet to the rails is on opposite side so I relocated it to passenger side with new 3/8 hard line
Flow direction-
from tank to 10mic filter (already present)
then 10mic filter to pump,
then pump to filter/ reg inlet,
then outlet across inner sill then along the outside of chassis rail hard up in wheel outer guard through same bung that brake lines run into this keeps away from all heat possible.
The filter/ reg has return which goes back to tank.
Starting at tank
10mic filter (already there) 8an fitting
$0
ALUMINIUM FEMALE -8AN TO MALE -6AN REDUCER SILVER AF950-08-06S
13.50
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALUMINIUM-FEMALE-8AN-TO-MALE-6AN-REDUCER-SILVER-AF950-08-06S/121603794213?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
hard line from 10mic filter to pump
AEROFLOW AF109-06BLK 3/8" HARD LINE TO -6AN FEMALEADAPTER BLACK w/ OLIVE x2
$18each = $36
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-AF109-06BLK-3-8-HARD-LINE-TO-6AN-FEMALEADAPTER-BLACK-w-OLIVE/222645201801?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
this is the pump and filter/reg kit has slip on -6an fitting included just make a little easier
268.50
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LS-Fuel-Filter-Regulator-EFI-Fuel-Pump-Kit-Walbro-Returnless-6AN-Engine-Swap/192405424338?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I used flex line from pump to filter / reg as I had some left over in kit that I purchased to go from end of hard line to engine to cost cut a bit
Then another one of these from filter out to hard line
Then I used AEROFLOW AF109-06BLK 3/8" HARD LINE TO -6AN FEMALEADAPTER BLACK w/ OLIVE x2
$18each
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-AF109-06BLK-3-8-HARD-LINE-TO-6AN-FEMALEADAPTER-BLACK-w-OLIVE/222645201801?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
AEROFLOW AF66-3000BLK 3/8" ALLOY FUEL LINE (9.5mm) BLACK ANODISED METHANOL
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-AF66-3000BLK-3-8-ALLOY-FUEL-LINE-9-5mm-BLACK-ANODISED-METHANOL/322758072538?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
all secured with these
AEROFLOW AF300-01 BRAKE LINE CLAMPS FOR 3/8" OD HARD LINE STAINLESS STEEL X 12
$33
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-AF300-01-BRAKE-LINE-CLAMPS-FOR-3-8-OD-HARD-LINE-STAINLESS-STEEL-X-12/222648627787?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
fitting from end of hard line to flex hose to 6an fuel adaptor (next item after this one)
AEROFLOW AF108-06BLK 3/8" HARD LINE TO -6AN MALE ADAPTER BLACK w/ OLIVE
$18
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-AF108-06BLK-3-8-HARD-LINE-TO-6AN-MALE-ADAPTER-BLACK-w-OLIVE/322747605641?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
bought this kit as cheaper to buy in kit (have another project to use leftovers on)
AU AN6 6AN 5M Aluminium & Nylon Braided Oil Fuel Line & Fitting Hose End Adapter
$66
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-AN6-6AN-5M-Aluminium-Nylon-Braided-Oil-Fuel-Line-Fitting-Hose-End-Adapter/362545532488?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
this fitting slides and clips over fuel rail inlet and gets you to 6an
AN6 LS1 LS2 LS3 LS7 3/8" Fuel Rail Adapter Fitting -6AN RWF-715-06-06BK
$16.50
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AN6-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS7-3-8-Fuel-Rail-Adapter-Fitting-6AN-RWF-715-06-06BK-2-Yr-Wty/171480490025?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
LS1 sump requires the pressure relief vale deleted this is the bung I used
N90288901 - VOLKSWAGEN MK1 MK2 MK3 GOLF JETTA VENTO OIL SUMP PLUG M14x1.5
$7
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/N90288901-VOLKSWAGEN-MK1-MK2-MK3-GOLF-JETTA-VENTO-OIL-SUMP-PLUG-M14x1-5/232749091306?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
miscellaneous vac hoses and lines
$50
Oils and coolant 150
Exhaust 2.5
Quote 2000
Note from same link as above to the air intake system
If you change your exhaust the rear 02 sensors monitor activity for evidence of catalytic converter failure and will also throw engine lights due to error codes. These error codes are adjusted when the engine is tuned.
Power steer lines & trans extensions
(trans cooler lines required extension due to how tight the extractors are between the rail and engine and I did not want to go over the top of engine
As for the power steer lines I routed these from rack to drivers side of sump then around sump at the front secured by p clamps the around oil filter the straight up behind pump unit I put some hose after the first bend from the rack to account for the movement in the engine while running
$500
Engineering report
$1900
Pit inspection 140 ( as I want it licenced with engine)
So the total has been $13.372 atm with all work completed by myself, as I said before I not quite finished yet (as of today) but all work quoted or estimated
Only things to do are full Exhaust (still included price in the total) - I have just cut and shut my current setup but will require cats to be engineered…Engineering report, pits
Power steering rack clearance issues – none providing the steering rack mounts are in original position, holes can be elongated slightly if needed extra clearance – most likely over to the pass side (rod shop try y stainless steel extractors)
power steering lines need to be made up from local hose service most have a mobile service that will come to you, if not you can take old lines down to hose doctor alike with a bent up piece of brake hard line bent how you require it and get them to make it up for you
Something to think about is the location of you trans lines and where they run. Mine were running between rail and extractors on the driver’s side, I do not like this as the extractors are tight in that area so if yours are the same you may need to reroute them as I have done
Another line that needs to be rerouted is the fuel line to the canister as standard location will rub in between extractors and rail, I just bent mine further up and come across the rail instead of down beside
Also with the trans and the rod shop extractors , the extractors require a fair chunk trimmed off of the outer side of the TH350 this is the area that looks like wings on the outer edge where the torque converter dust cover mount flush up too. I took 10mm off of the drivers and even more off of the passengers so the extractors bolt up flush on the engine. Best move here is to trial fit extractors to motor before dropping engine in
I would also recommend removing the coil pack closest to the driver as the clearance is too tight with pass extractor laid in position see step below
I think the rod shop instructions say leave the engine mount plates loose on the block until fitted be aware they are pricks to tighten the bolts on the pass side (the central location for this plate was perfect for my install) so up to you
Also ensure that you steering intermediate shafts has been swapped
When I did drop engine in i had trans mated to engine
Drop engine ¾ way in the loosely fit passenger extractor
Drivers extractor is 3 piece set up so can be fitted after the engine is seated
Leave power rack out or hanging loose
Don’t tighten up drivers side extractor until you have fitted power rack checked clearances and bolted to intermediate shaft and had you hoses made and fitted to power rack then you can slide on rear slip on section and tighten extractors
also it would be smart to fit he trans mount while out of vehicle as the bolts are in a poor spot to tighten up this will also give you the chance to check if your trans sump clears drivers extractor mine needed massage to get clearance as it was just fouling
as for the electronic pedal setup, you will need to remove the original bracket to mount this cleanly this is one of the last jobs I have to do this week along with plugging in the wiring extensions that I am waiting to receive then start up will occur….i hope.
I hope this write up although all over the place helps at least someone out there get to what they are trying to achieve with a little more clarity or maybe this has just confuse the situation.
Cheers
