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VL Turbo Exhaust Manifold replacement

Barry Dawson

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What is the best type of gasket to use on a RB30 VL turbo exhaust manifold?
Anyone have torque specifications?
Should i use anti seize on them?

TIA
 

vc commodore

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Using anti seize on the exhaust bolts aren't a necessity, but would be a good idea to use....It is very effective at preventing them from seizing up in the future and snapping them off when getting removed in the future
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I would replace all the studs while you have it off. The Nissan engine has a design flaw, the cast manifold expands and contracts at a different rate than the alloy head and due to the slotted holes in the manifold it causes the studs to flex. This weakens them and they snap when undoing them. Some may snap trying to get them out too, not because they are seized, because they have been weakened by flexing. Easy enough to get out though.
 

Barry Dawson

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Permaseal gaskets?
Permatex Ultra Blue? or Ultra Copper?
 

Vin999

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Permaseal gaskets?
Permatex Ultra Blue? or Ultra Copper?
What is the best type of gasket to use on a RB30 VL turbo exhaust manifold?
Anyone have torque specifications?
Should i use anti seize on them?
Depends on different things/situations ... most times any stock gasket is fine, some even use 2 in case of having many leaks and warpage on manifold from heat expansion, some even use high heat rtv as well.

Best thing is buy new studs as well and just over firm spanner tight, don’t worry about torque specs, run engine and check later and re tighten slightly to be sure no leaks., new hardened bolts will do the rest.

Also put some copper lube on studs to prevent seizing/rusting/loosening up from extreme heat is a necessity, so you can take them off if you have to later without breaking any of in the head.

Copper Lube is different to the Loctite sheet blue/red thread locker which shouldn’t be used.
 

Barry Dawson

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Depends on different things/situations ... most times any stock gasket is fine, some even use 2 in case of having many leaks and warpage on manifold from heat expansion, some even use high heat rtv as well.

Best thing is buy new studs as well and just over firm spanner tight, don’t worry about torque specs, run engine and check later and re tighten slightly to be sure no leaks., new hardened bolts will do the rest.

Also put some copper lube on studs to prevent seizing/rusting/loosening up from extreme heat is a necessity, so you can take them off if you have to later without breaking any of in the head.

Copper Lube is different to the Loctite sheet blue/red thread locker which shouldn’t be used.

Thanks for that, copper lube like, Herschell copper anti-seize or Penrite Copper Eze or Royal Copper Anti-Seize?
 

Vin999

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Thanks for that, copper lube like, Herschell copper anti-seize or Penrite Copper Eze or Royal Copper Anti-Seize?
Yep any with copper for high heat is ok, last one I bought was the cheaper herschell plastic tube, the lube/grease can also be used on back of pads/backing plates to stop annoying brake squeal.
 

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1FEB4192-9C1A-4A4E-8424-778886F4C35B.jpeg

This
 

Barry Dawson

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Is there a gasket between the turbine housing and exhaust gas outlet flange? or sealant? or just bolted on machined surfaces?
 
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