VL walkinshaw replica 666-GMC

[*uwishn*]

you do know you can get a custom made speedo cable to suit? though your gear looks ok too.

shes coming along now!! are you going to attempt the wiring your self?

 

[twr-92]

CRS wanted $800 for a setup which might be what you are referring to, and v6 conversions wanted $500 for the gear I got. it all came down to the cheaper option this time as I wont be able to inject more funds into the car any time soon. perhaps in a year or 2 I can do more but now its a case of getting it on the road as soon as I can

 

[twr-92]

BTW when you wired up your new loom, where did you get ignition on power for the relays from ?
did you run wires up as far as the dash or is there one in the vl loom from the old auto connections?

 

[twr-92]

The engine bay wiring is done and the car starts. Now I need to get the exhaust on. Its too loud to start up I the garage, and the missus will get upset if I fire it upper too frequently.

 

[*uwishn*]

cool,did you follow my wiring? or did you buy an all ready made loom i cant remember what you were going to do.
if you followed my wiring,did you make any changes?
and for exhaust i used a vl v8 one off eBay like 180buks new,cut the flange of the front turned it around re welded, and shes great.

 

[twr-92]

I used the instructions from the CT forums. I was more comfortable with the instructions as each wires purpose is described and I could then test each wire. I was going to buy a loom a while back but after reading the reading up on what to do, and running out of money, I decided to have a go at it myself. I found that there was nothing really alter in the loom itself, but simply to add to it.

I'm not sure how I'll get my exhaust in. I need to figure this out as the extractors I have don't fit between the block and wheel arch. the flange wont fit, even when lifting the engine but I can't lift it too far because the gearbox hits the trans tunnel. The stock headers go on and the y piece will come up from below once I replace the steering rack with the vn v6 rack. I would prefer to have the extractors on though.

 

[Sik_Cordz]

ive been reading over that thread to on wiring the engine up and im not very good with sparky work but i think i get it and ill be doing it soon on my vl and im thinking maybe even taking some good photos to help fellow people

 

[*uwishn*]

hey twr-92, i sent you a pm regarding the wiring cheers.

 

[twr-92]

ive been reading over that thread to on wiring the engine up and im not very good with sparky work but i think i get it and ill be doing it soon on my vl and im thinking maybe even taking some good photos to help fellow people

the guide I followed on the ct forum submitted by member tab is:


Wiring instruction for a injected 5 litre conversion

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Since everyone keeps asking, i have made up a list for the wiring from the vn - vs injected 5 litre loom.if you are doing a conversion in your vl or commordore

i have done a injected 5litre conversion on my calais (originally carby v8) and done all the wiring myself. I`m am running a trimatic. But wiring is same if you run the turbo transmission. It takes a good 2 - 4 hours to do and not hard to do yourself,
just gota have some auto elec knowlodge.

If you have any question about it just send me a pm.
You will need 2 relays (4 pin) , one is a fuel pump relay and the other is a efi relay.
On a realy there are 4 pins which have nubers next to the pins, the numbers are: 85(switch power), 86(negative earth), 87(power supply direct from battery), 30(wire to item that will receive power)


black plug on the efi loom in engine bay (near battery):

Red wire:

Positive(+) power supply for injectors when ignition is switched on. Need to connect this red wire to relay pin 30 (this will be the efi relay) via a 30amp fuse (before connection to pin 30 on relay).
Connect pin 85 on relay from a ignition on power supply ( a wire that will give positive power when ignition is switched on only) , connect pin 86 on relay to earth, and connect pin 87 on relay to direct battery positive (+) power.
So relay should click on and off when ignition is turned on and off.


Violet(purple) wire:

Positive(+) power supply for fuel pump (via oil pressure switch) when ignition is switched on. Need to connect this violet wire to relay pin 30 (this will be the fuel pump relay) via a 30amp fuse (before connection to pin 30 on relay)
also you will need to connect a wire from your fuel pump (+) with this violet wire to relay pin 30 (so two wires go on the same pin on relay) as this will give power to the oil pressure switch and fuel pump when the ignition is switched on
(the computer is designed to only run the fuel pumps when there is oil pressure as a precaution and thats why the violet wire runs through the oil pressure switch) .
Connect pin 85 on relay from green with white trace wire on the black pulg( this wire that will give positive power when ignition is switched on only via the computer for one second and then cuts out until you start the engine and there is oil pressure)
, connect pin 86 on relay to earth, and connect pin 87 on relay to orange wire on black plug ( this wire goes to oil pressure switch as a direct power from battery) and also you need to join a wire direct from the battery (+) to this pin(87) on relay as well.
(so two wires go on the same pin on relay). So relay should click on and off when ignition is turned on and off via the computer.


Orange wire:

Positive (+) wire to oil pressure switch direct from battery to fuel pump relay pin 87 ( read above in violet wire)


red with black trace wire:

Positive (+) power supply for computer. Connect this red with black trace wire direct to the positive (+) battery power (countinuas power) via a 30amp fuse. No relay required. This will give continuas power to the computer.


Green with white trace:

Fuel pump switch wire from ecu to fuel pump relay pin 85 (read above in violet wire). Will give power to fuel pump relay to switch on and off.




Grey plug on efi loom in engine bay (near battery next to black plug)

bule with white wire:

Ac cooling fan relay(gives negative (-) power) (not reqiuired to hook up this wire anywhere) or you can hook up you themo`s to this wire via relay (and it will switch thermo`s on when water gets to 91c) can be altered to
different temp via computer (need software)


light green with black trace wire:

A/c relay (not required to hook up this wire anywhere) unless you are running air cond.


Blue wire:

Oil pressure light, give positive(+) power to a oil presure light in cabin. Does not need to be hook up if you dont have a oil pressure light, or you can just put a small led light on you dash and hook it uo to that.
(optional) specailly if you run a oil pressure guage.


Green (next to blue wire) wire:

Coolant tempreture signal wire, this give you a reading on you water temp guage. Best to put a aftermarket electric water temp guage with new sensor, as the vl dash guage will give you a wrong reading with the orignal sensor on the motor.
Connect this wire to you reciveing signal on you tempreture guage.


Green with black trace:

Not required.


Brown wire:

A/c switch. (not reqiured to hook up anywhere) unless you are going to connect the air cond up.

Brown with red trace wire:

Tacho signial, hook this wire up to your rpm tacho guage.




Black plug on efi loom in engine bay ( the one with 2 wires):

Purple wire:

Starter motor solinied positve (+) power supply. This wire need to be hook up to igntion starter, so when you turn the key to start it give power to the starter motor to turn over.


Brown wire:

Alternator dash light positive (+) output, this wire needs to be connected to a battery light on the dash, otherwise ti will no charge the battery if it is not hook up to a battery light.





White plug on efi loom near computer (inside car):


Brown with white trace wire:

Check engine light negative (-) power output. (must connect) connect this wire to a light somewhere on you dash to negative wire on the light and the positive wire from the light should be connected to ignition on power.


Brown with yellow trace wire:

To trip computer. (not required to hook this wire up anywhere).



Pink plug on efi loom near computer (inside car):

This plug hooks up to your transmission wiring loom if you are running the turbo transmission. If you are running a trimatic or manual here are the wires to be connected:


Yellow with white trace wire:

Trip computer. (not required to hook up any where)


grey wire:

Inhibitor switch, negative (-) power input. This wire needs to be connected to you inhibitor switch on your gear stick so the computer knows when it is in park on netural.
If the car is manual than this needs to be earthed out to negative (-) continuasly.


Grey with red trace wire:

Tourque converter clutch solinied. (not required to hook up any where if not running a four speed transmission)


pink (next to grey with red trace wire) wire:

Anti theft circuit. Need to connect this wire to positive (+) ignition on, otherwise it will no run the computer, this wire can be hooked up to your immobiliser realy so the car will not
start unless this wire gets a positive power supply.


Light blue wire:

Auto transmission tempreture switch/ 4th gear. (not required to hook up any where if not running a four speed transmission).


This is all thats needed to do and the car will start.

If you have any problems just let me know, and i can help you out.

Hope this helps everyone.

Cheers tab.
to get power from ignition on, I ran a 25 amp wire from the same +ve bank in the fuse box that the pink wire is connected to.
to run the power to the fuel pump from the new fuel pump relay, I ran a 25 amp wire to the fuse box again, removed the old fuel pump relay from there and used a blade connector and put the wire into the socket with the 2 purple wires on the under side.

i'd like to tidy up the wiring by moving the new relays to the fuse box eventually

 

[Sik_Cordz]

so basically you could spilce into the fuse box for the ign and fuel pump wire ???