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Vn 304 rebuild

Richo0902

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Hey guys, so this is where I'm at. Going 355. I'm going to pull the motor out and strip some of it down so that I can take the block and head to get machined. Looking 40 thou. Found a kit on eBay from Port city for around $2500 which looks alright. Will hopefully get the machine shop to put the bottom end together for me so that's half the battle done. Any thoughts about fuel system, oil pump upgrades and a new ignition system?? Someone said to me about putting roller rockers in it. Thoughts.......
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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You are going to need to clearance the block for the stroker crank. It hits the bottom of the bores so a bit needs to be ground out of them. Definitely flow the oil pump as well and at least do the minor oiling mods outlined on the aussie V8 forums.

What you use will depend on how you want to use it.

Stock fuel and ignition systems will be fine, just make sure you use a good tuner to get it right.
 

Brettly-2008

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As above, there'll be extra cost to relieve the block for the stroker crank ect. As for roller rockers, they're good insurance and essential once your cam choice gets anywhere near serious, but not essential for a basic 355 build. None of the factory HSV strokers used them. Having said that, VN Group A and VP GTS/Senator 5000 used rollers (and 4-bolt mains).
 

gtrboyy

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Have you spoken to an decent engine shops nearby like Westend? Planned cam/compression/stally/diff gears????

1/2 arsed street setup
Something like crane 284 or bigger lumpier 286 if going decent 3-3500 stally & shorter diff gears...3.7 if can find some.
10.1 cr depending on cam
oil mods to block + blueprint stock oil pump,close hole on cam bolt & oiler tube...grind block
bolt on roller rockers
reco & shave heads to acheive comp ratio.
vy ls1 or super6 injectors (talk to tuner)

What crank & pistons...heard scat 'was' good value.I'd prefer to keep vn rods & go with suitable pistons whilst others prefer longer chev rods or whatever.

^^^ That is vague as possible hence why really need to talk to tuner & nachine shop before spending...find out what works & buy right parts to do it properly first time.
 

shane_3800

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Have you spoken to an decent engine shops nearby like Westend? Planned cam/compression/stally/diff gears????

1/2 arsed street setup
Something like crane 284 or bigger lumpier 286 if going decent 3-3500 stally & shorter diff gears...3.7 if can find some.
10.1 cr depending on cam
oil mods to block + blueprint stock oil pump,close hole on cam bolt & oiler tube...grind block
bolt on roller rockers
reco & shave heads to acheive comp ratio.
vy ls1 or super6 injectors (talk to tuner)

What crank & pistons...heard scat 'was' good value.I'd prefer to keep vn rods & go with suitable pistons whilst others prefer longer chev rods or whatever.

^^^ That is vague as possible hence why really need to talk to tuner & nachine shop before spending...find out what works & buy right parts to do it properly first time.
Chev rods are way better. I have a scat crank I might refurbish that stopped dead on my girdle strong as an ox. They make forged steel cranks now too which are stronger than the block. And when I say that I mean you'll run into cap retension issues before you break a forged crank.
 

Richo0902

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You are going to need to clearance the block for the stroker crank. It hits the bottom of the bores so a bit needs to be ground out of them. Definitely flow the oil pump as well and at least do the minor oiling mods outlined on the aussie V8 forums.

What you use will depend on how you want to use it.

Stock fuel and ignition systems will be fine, just make sure you use a good tuner to get it right.
Are you able to find the link the Aussie V8 forum for the oil mods?

I understood that there had to be work done on the block for the stroker kit. The machinist would do that right....... Would they also be able to put the bottom end together.....
 

shane_3800

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Are you able to find the link the Aussie V8 forum for the oil mods?

I understood that there had to be work done on the block for the stroker kit. The machinist would do that right....... Would they also be able to put the bottom end together.....
Some engine shops will some wont. A guy at a engine shop is technically a machinist but they're a specialist so they're engine builders not machinists.
You would want to find an engine shop that specialises in race engines like Kinght Engines or Sams Performance.
 

Richo0902

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Some engine shops will some wont. A guy at a engine shop is technically a machinist but they're a specialist so they're engine builders not machinists.
You would want to find an engine shop that specialises in race engines like Kinght Engines or Sams Performance.
Thanks mate.

Will have to look up a few places and find out who does what and how good there work is rated.

I'm understanding that there's a **** load to do and to make sure is right. Was just trying to work out how much of the work I can do just to cut down costs. Sometimes getting parts off eBay etc can work out cheaper than going to actual engine builder. But then it's making sure what you get will all work together.

If I can put the top part of the motor together, hopefully I can keep a few dollars in my pocket...
 

shane_3800

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Thanks mate.

Will have to look up a few places and find out who does what and how good there work is rated.

I'm understanding that there's a **** load to do and to make sure is right. Was just trying to work out how much of the work I can do just to cut down costs. Sometimes getting parts off eBay etc can work out cheaper than going to actual engine builder. But then it's making sure what you get will all work together.

If I can put the top part of the motor together, hopefully I can keep a few dollars in my pocket...
Ebay can sting you as some parts are fakes from china.
 
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