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304 VN AERO REBUILD (304 stroked to 350ci flat top pistons std 4" bore)

Deuce

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looks like we will go with the bolt on chassis connectors
could only find 2 on offer:

Melb Castlemaine rod shop: $550 delivered
https://www.rodshop.com.au/chassis-kit-for-holden-vn-commodores
Adelaide CK racing developments (although few other supplier were selling them) $650 delivered https://www.facebook.com/ckracingdevelopments/photos/pcb.1090733311028682/1090733014362045 }
I remember a while back a VX rebuild on JC that used stiffeners running hard against the length of the chassis rails to strengthen them.
Seen American C10 etc that run tubing between the rails (building like a ladder chassis style) to strengthen it.
But can you explain the ones you linked above a bit better? Are they like a secondary pair of rails tying the front and real subframes together and mounted just inwards of the existing rails?
 

keith reed

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I remember a while back a VX rebuild on JC that used stiffeners running hard against the length of the chassis rails to strengthen them.
Seen American C10 etc that run tubing between the rails (building like a ladder chassis style) to strengthen it.
But can you explain the ones you linked above a bit better? Are they like a secondary pair of rails tying the front and real subframes together and mounted just inwards of the existing rails?
If you google vh chassis connectors there is a picture of them in place on the just commodore forum in 2017
 

Deuce

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bjf66

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Have only seen them on live rear ends. These were the exact connectors I was looking at, they seem to have better mounting points than the CRS connectors, although only personal observation
 

bjf66

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spent some time in garage over weekend
  • more under body work, only one small section under drivers seat, left to remove tar based under body sealer, degrease, and seal with KBS chassis paint
  • pulled all the engine parts together, will drop off at A1 engines for balance job tomorrow
  • chassis connectors: waiting for reply from manufacturer, however have decided moving ahead with them
  • sons VW Polo manual shifter crapped out in reverse, ... plastic fittings ... need to spend some time on getting that sorted and organizing parts
Old man passed away earlier this week, so back to NZ we go
Hopefully when I get back can pick the engine parts from A1, and start to get rid of some of the parts spread around garage. Its amazing how many parts are in car when you start pulling them down
 

bjf66

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Engine balancing
Seems one scat conrod is light off by 13 grms
These are suppose to be top of range scat with ARP2000 bolts
Need to suss out what to do
 
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Deuce

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Engine balancing
Seems one scat conrod is light off by 13 grms
These are suppose to be top of range scat with ARP2000 bolts
Need to suss put what to do
13 sounds like a lot.
Maybe contact your supplier and see if they will swap it out for another.
Or double check that there wasn't a silly mistake like a bolt missing or the support for big/small end changed height.

Can you see any different in surface that might explain it?
 

bjf66

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these H-beam rods are brand new, unopened, all bolts check out, been sitting on shelf for a while. Whether they were opened 4 years ago or yesterday would of netted same prob's
options:
  • grind remaining 7 rods down, although chasing 5grm on small end, and 8grms of BE, which is likely to be the main issue, as not much meat of the rods to take off
  • purchase another rod with the required weights, preferred,
    • most probably less stuffing around price of rod V's labour engine balancing
    • time: WTF is another few weeks now at this point
    • new rod makes sense as will be better balancing job
    • supplier to come to party, interesting question, just goes to show QA is where its at at some of the big boys do occasional come off the rails as well.
    • interesting to see what the distributor/reseller says.., Blah Blah
 
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