If you run the a VL diff, would you have clearence problems on the boot side of the gaurd? or the arches? or even the shock? or would this all depend on how low you go? I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but I'm running a very low spring that sits the the rear of the car just slightly tucking a couple mm of rim. Not sure if I can pull it off or not.
I don't see why not, the running concept before paint was pretty intense to get some attention - paint and the rims should finish it off....
All that work for that beautiful deep paint and you went for black bumpers? I love the that color!!!!!!
it's not a vn without black bumpers Some assembly progress pics, for anyone still listening. lol; Zinc plated all the bolts, brackets, etc: Suspensions sandblasted & repainted.. Shorter VL Diff awaiting assembly with 31 spliners and 3.23's
looking good man, what axels are they? i went with mosor ones, pretty happy with them picked them up along with a mcdonalds bros fullspool, such a loverly bit of kit pity they have too hide inside the diff! have you boxed the lower trailing arms? might be something too consider, also what did those upper controll arms set you back?? also if you dont mind how expensive is zinc plating... not very or very lol look forward too seeing some up dates! still running that tune you gave me too haha
Hey Mate! they're the ones made by G&J - we'll find out if they're any good soon enough lol. Quite a fair bit chunkier than the stockers, and not cast - so hopefully that does the trick. The mosers look trick, especially with that end cap sticker thinggie! I've got to find a full spool for events etc - as I'll be running a standard LSD center on the street, for engineering etc - until someone comes out with a good center for the bw. nah I spoke to a guy about boxing lower control arms - he said it's more of a 'drag car' thing, as apparently they're required to twist a bit when you're cornering... Straight line no issues... but since it's a 'street/sports' car, and I actually intend on turning it somewhat at speed, I stayed with the standard setup. Top arms cost 250-300? from memory. Never had the time to adjust them lol. - will set them up nicely with the final ride height etc. zinc plating cost me 70 bucks for a 10 litre bucket full of bolts/brackets/etc - Best money I've ever spent on the car and highly recommend! Last I saw on ct you were chasing down a 10 sec pass! how's that all coming along?
yeah coming along mate, bit by bit. got a pretty decebt trimatic behind it now with a 3500rpm stallie, went a wade 1140c camshaft too built the diff as above and almost finished putting in 3/8 lines twin 044's and 1000c injectors all in braided and an fittings also upped the inginiton system with some msd gear... hopefully have her running again soon then off too the tuners the zinc plating thing sounds like a massive winner! where abouts? hopefully the bottem end hangs together only time will tell! cheers tom
Did you need to do any prep work on the bolts before they coated them or did they prep them? What did you paint your suspension with? Is it just painted with enamel or did you use something with some flex in it? (to avoid cracking) Did you consider powder coating at all? Thanks. aZk.
cracker - it sounds like you're onto a winner! I'll have to pop in sometime to discuss further over a cold beverage! I have mass faith in bottom ends, and worst case you can head down to the wreckers and buy a new engine about 15 times before you hit the cost of a single 'built' one (that could explode regardless! azk I'm about to do a 2nd batch - the first batch I pickled in vinegar for a few days, then pressure washed, then wd40'd so they didn't rust up any left over bolts with paint on them are 80/20 (80 the paint will come off at the platers, 20 will have spots of paint remaining) about to do a 2nd batch of "spare" bolts (*cough* unknown locations lol) with minimal prep - will let u know how they go lyndale elctroplating was the mob I used - in dandy and open crazy hours which is good for me google them suspension was sand blasted and then i painted with rust-kill epoxy enamel. i considered powder coating but didnt' want to spend the extra cash removing and refitting all the bushes with a chance of ruining all the new ones in there. the bonus is that if the epoxy cracks - it'll show stress on components and reveal cracks in the metal
