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VN stalling

vncommo93

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Hey all,
My VN has recently started to stall occasionally when i start it up and put it into gear. I reset the ECU and its fine for about 20-25 starts untill it starts to stall a few times again. I just kept re setting the ECU when it started to stall and all would be fine untill it happened again. Once i get driving its fine and wont stall, its only a bit after i start it and change it into gear. When it stalls it starts up again no problem and its fine...i changed the TPS about 2 weeks ago due to engine light coming on. Im a bit confused aha :|

cheers
 

katrina34

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1989 Vn Calais Dual Fuel

Sorry if in wrong area again
I'm having a similar problem with my car it on dual fuel currently running on LPG fuel pump keep blowing on me
When i start my car and put it in reserve it stills on me also still on me when waiting at the lights or intersection I got it booked in for a service this Thursday Just want to know if anyone on here that might no the problem by the way does anyone in Victoria have standard springs and struts or just springs for sale in Victoria please if not to costly to purchase interstate will be fine thanks
 

bubbada

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One thing that i cant get over is why is it that dual fuel cars need the fuel pump running all the time while on lpg, seems to be a waste of the pump and battery power.
 

Cheap6

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Hey all,
My VN has recently started to stall occasionally when i start it up and put it into gear. I reset the ECU and its fine for about 20-25 starts untill it starts to stall a few times again. I just kept re setting the ECU when it started to stall and all would be fine untill it happened again. Once i get driving its fine and wont stall, its only a bit after i start it and change it into gear. When it stalls it starts up again no problem and its fine...i changed the TPS about 2 weeks ago due to engine light coming on. Im a bit confused aha :|

cheers
Those symptoms sound like what occurs when the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve or throttle plate sticks. The remedy is to clean the throttle body and IAC valve and port of the varnish/Carbon grunge that inevitably end up in it. It requires removal of the TB and the IAC motor/valve for it to be done properly. You can use carburettor cleaner if you take care not to let the carb. cleaner run into the bushes or bearings that the throttle plate pivots on. Otherwise, a cloth soaked in kerosene works well. An old toothbrush can also be useful.

It may be that the lube on the IAC motor/valve drive gears has hardened and is causing the valve to stick. In that case - and only that case - you can clean the old grease off and spray the gears with Lithium based grease. If that doesn't work, you'll have to replace the valve. With the IAC removed you might like to replace the 'O' ring that seals it to the TB.

If it is still setting a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) fault code, yes that can also cause the stalling. (Can you be sure that the new TPS is OK?) It may not be the sensor itself. If it is a poor contact or broken wire sometimes you can get a fault to occur by wiggling the (TPS) wires and watching for the fault code light.

Sorry if in wrong area again
I'm having a similar problem with my car it on dual fuel currently running on LPG fuel pump keep blowing on me
When i start my car and put it in reserve it stills on me also still on me when waiting at the lights or intersection I got it booked in for a service this Thursday Just want to know if anyone on here that might no the problem by the way does anyone in Victoria have standard springs and struts or just springs for sale in Victoria please if not to costly to purchase interstate will be fine thanks
Possibly the same issue (IAC/TB dirty) for the stall in reverse. If it's only on LPG it may be an LPG tune issue. Running on LPG removes one means by which the ECM can control idle speed; altering the air:fuel ratio that the engine is using. (The engine idle speed depends on coolant temperature, air:fuel ratio, ignition timing and the amount of air being allowed into the engine.)

The petrol fuel pumps don't much like running without fuel flowing through them, nor any solid material. It's very common for petrol fuel systems on cars running on LPG to be neglected and run low on petrol. Petrol deteriorates over time with some fractions evaporating and others changing chemically altering the lubricating, cooling and flow characteristics of it. A low fuel level will encourage condensation and corrosion in the tank too. I have seen petrol fuel systems on dual fuel cars so bad the car won't run on them anymore and virtually requiring a complete replacement. Fortunately, that's fairly rare though. It really helps to fill the petrol tank and occasionally run a tank of petrol through.

Depending on how the LPG system has been fitted, the petrol pump may or may not continue to run with the engine operating on LPG. If it does continue to run and the petrol tank is empty, whether by running it empty or evaporation (it takes a while for that) the pump will burn out very quickly. If you run the petrol tank empty while on petrol the engine and fuel pump stop. The pump can keep running while on LPG (until it dies).

Changing the petrol fuel filter, and inspecting the contents of the old one, will be a good place to start to gauge the condition of the petrol fuel system.

One thing that i cant get over is why is it that dual fuel cars need the fuel pump running all the time while on lpg, seems to be a waste of the pump and battery power.
Not all do run the pump on LPG. Some will also run the pump intermittently rather than continuously. Having it running does help keep the fuel cooler and from varnishing inside the fuel rail and causing injector problems. Yes, it's a waste of energy (fuel) to run the pump flat out when it isn't needed.
 
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