[General] VN-VZ Ignition Repair

[Fu Manchu]

This is for the VZ barrel repining.
The original thread has broken links to the images.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.a...acement-ignition-lock-for-vn-vr-vt-vx.195804/

Mine was jammed. I had to do some delicate tapping and wiggling of the key to get it to turn.

If you get really stuck, you could unscrew the key head and stick the key only in and turn it with some pliers or grips.

From my recollection of my old VP ignition, we are pretty much looking at the same ignition switch and barrel.

I watched a vid that helped. It’s pretty funny. I copied much of the methods seen in it, but they aren’t essential to do.

I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery first.

I used a pick to release the lock barrel.

Turn the key to accessories. (It should sit pretty much vertical.)

Then I used the right angle pick.
It goes in a hole on top.
(You could use some wire or a small Allen key.)

It will only need light pressure to release it.

Remove the barrel.
Keep the key in!

I had a towel down on the table ready.
I also had the new kit ready.
Numbered the bags.
Had tweezers ready.
Grease and a small screw driver also ready.
The 6 and the 9 can get muddled.
You’ll figure it out.

Now to get the centre part out.

Make sure you turn the key round so the pin on the back is as far round as it can go. Push the pin down to clear that notch and release it slowly or you could loose an eye and the pin.

Note, from factory, these use a bearing grease like substance. So I used a lithium high temp bearing grease at the end.

*Edit: updated info regarding lubricating locks has been added.

This is part of the steering lock I think.
Tiny spring 1 will be seen once you lift out the first pin. Note the direction of the angled side for later.

Slide out the centre with the key still in.

* Careful of the pins. You don’t want these falling out or you are fkd.
Hold them in with your fingers once the key is removed. They are fine with the key in.

You can now remove the key carefully.
Make sure the pins don’t drop out.
Set it down carefully.

I used a diagram to jot down the pin locations just as old mate did in the video. I used the big hole as a reference point, just like so many things in my life.

There are 10 pins.

5 top are odd.
5 bottom are even.

View attachment 209001
Remove the top pins and lay them out on the paper in order of removal.

Then the bottom ones.

Each has a number.
Write the number down under the pin.

Then write the 5 odd number sequence for the top in an easier to read spot.
Then the same for the 5 even bottom number sequence.

Now you have your pin sequence for the new barrel.

Edit:

I’m guessing here @Marras, but heavy lubricants are “ok” on the mechanical parts? On the critical pins and small movement bits inox or some sort of dry lubricant should be used? Or is it better to keep greases out of the assembly all together and just use dry lube Inox on everything?


*Of note: That link is still relative to the VE as it is still almost identical to models previous.

Where the key is inserted into the barrel with the wafers/pins are yes do not use grease.
On the outside of the cylinder (which is what the barrel with the wafers is housed in) is ok to use grease as the manufacturer does, but Inox will also lubricate those parts. Just don’t flood it.

There is always exceptions to this though as sometimes flooding an old lock with Inox may dislodge gunk that is stopping the barrel from operating correctly.

 

[Fu Manchu]

First, pop a new spring in the hole. Careful not to wreck them pulling them apart. Take your time.

Then slide the new correctly numbered pin in.
There’s a notch that sits on the spring.

Do one side, put the key in and it should all sit flush as they pull down. You can’t have any sticking up, not even slightly. There will be an incorrect pin if there is.

Take out the key carefully holding the pins with your finger so they don’t fall out.


then turn it over. The barrel and do the other side.

Is it a 6? Or is it a 9?
Remember odd and even rows. You won’t get a 6 with odd numbers
Match up the shape of the pin marked 6 or 9 to be sure.

Put the key in and all should be good. If not, you fkd up. See how they are flush? Well they are ok.

Next I put a bit (too much) of high temp bearing grease on the notch for annoying spring. Then drop the pin in with tweezers. The grease will hold them in place enough if you are careful.

Remember how you noted the angle?

Next is to install the latch on the top.

There’s a roll pin, spring and the latch.
Tap in the roll pin some of the way. Use a small hammer, be gentle. Then use some grease to get the spring in and the latch. Tap in the roll pin a bit more to fix the latch in place.



Then I smeared a bit of grease over the pins. A bit. Not much.

Then put some grease in the hole for the big pin. Spring in, then the pin.
Fk. Now it can’t go in. Takes pin out. Spring out with tweezers.

Now slide the newly pinned barrel into the housing. Fit the locking pin in again with its spring. I pressed down on it to get it first onto the notch and then with a little screw driver, under the notch and released it.

Done. It all turns ok etc. Like test clicking tongs, gotta give it a test turn or two.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Now put it back in.

Flick this latch so it locks. This will allow the barrel to slide in pretty easy.

Now first make sure the key is correctly positioned. See that flat edge. Should face up. The key should be vertical to it.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Ignition switch replacement
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ignition-barrel.280246/

This.

Undoes this grub screw.

Lever up this tab. Pull the plug side to side and release it. Don’t be an idiot and pull the wires. Hold the plug.

Now install the new one.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Changing the battery in the key head

This dudes soldering gave me anxiety. Did the job though.

 

[vc commodore]

Sorry for the thread dig, but I am curious whether VT to VZ ignition barrels are interchangeable?

My VY barrel is starting to stuff up, so I'm just trying to expand what models may fit, so I'm not limited so much...

 

[Fu Manchu]

Yes.
From what I’ve seen of kits sold, VN to VZ switches and barrels are interchangeable.

 

[vc commodore]

Yes.
From what I’ve seen of kits sold, VN to VZ switches and barrels are interchangeable.

Thanks FU.....

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

Posted this on an older thread, but read on that thread that the barrels are subject to failing when out in heat, which is kind of a bummer cause my car is parked outside at home and work. Is there a way to fix without replacing the barrel?
It just seems to be the locking pin at the rear of the barrel that's getting stuck. Would grease fix it?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Posted this on an older thread, but read on that thread that the barrels are subject to failing when out in heat, which is kind of a bummer cause my car is parked outside at home and work. Is there a way to fix without replacing the barrel?
It just seems to be the locking pin at the rear of the barrel that's getting stuck. Would grease fix it?

Never use grease on the barrel. I think I did when I repinned the barrel. I’ve learnt not to since.

@Marras is qualified to comment.