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VQ Cruise Control Cuts Out after a Few Seconds

MikeC

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Well I'm at the stage to give my level 2 cluster a service.

1) Odometer stopped working. So I assume I buy and replace 2 cogs that normally break. Should I lube gears with silicone grease? It appears that I will have to remove needle. Any precautions? Just make sure its zeroed?

Also are the ones on ebay any good or does anybody know of a good shop or seller?

2) Noticed at the same time speedo didn't seem to operate fully freely and easily dropped to zero. Possibly related to odometer? Anyway only done it once and seemed fixed once I tapped it don't know if coincidence? I suppose they have a voltage regulator as well so it may pay to flow all regulator joints for fuel, temperature, speedo and tacho? Fuel and temp previously done.

3) Probably pays to clean needle stops and should I also lube needle spindle? Noticed @MikeC mentions nulon ezi glide.
So did you just lube stops and needle externally or did you actually also lube mechanism for needle movement?
4) Since this is happening time to sort CRS and electric aerial intermittent issue. Just with dry joints in CRS switch notice on photos of switch on ebay can't really see many joints. Does switch need to be broken further apart to access those?

Thanks in advance.
The VQ has a fully electronic level 3 cluster- there are no cogs etc in the odometer.

I lubed my speedo and tacho mechanism with silicon lube, I didn't use a sticky type of lube as it didn't want anything to drag on the needle. Make sure nothing gets on the face of the instruments or you'll look at it forever or have to do a really good cleaning job.

The level 3 cruise control circuit boards need disassembly to get at all the joints. Look at them closely with a magnifying glass or blow up a photo on your phone. Miss one and the thing will still go intermittent when it gets hot.

I've had no problems with the cluster aerial up/down button, my aerial problems over the years have generally been in the wiring connectors.
 

grey_hawk

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Shouldn't need to remove the needle,just work from the back of speedo carefully.
The speedo itself is not related to the odometer gears, could be dry joints as the 'dash slap' will usually fix until the next time.
My dash has been slapped that many times I no longer have a problem with the fuel gauge or speedo!
 
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