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VQ Cruise Control Cuts Out after a Few Seconds

91SS

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Just a thought, as everyone knows our cars suffer electrical connection issues. I solved all of mine with a one time application of conductive grease on all connections os required. Never had a problem with mirrors tail lights door switches anything again.
Just thinking left field if your issue is intermittent maybe contacts are problem. And as I found out testing with a meter showed everything's ok it's under load that's issue. You might want to try a dab of grease on terminals before you spend to much money.
Good luck.
 

MikeC

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Just a thought, as everyone knows our cars suffer electrical connection issues. I solved all of mine with a one time application of conductive grease on all connections os required. Never had a problem with mirrors tail lights door switches anything again.
Just thinking left field if your issue is intermittent maybe contacts are problem. And as I found out testing with a meter showed everything's ok it's under load that's issue. You might want to try a dab of grease on terminals before you spend to much money.
Good luck.
Thanks. I've cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner. I'll have a look at using conductive grease- some of the pins are pretty fine and may not contact properly when installed back in the socket. I'll use Coppercoat as I have a fair of it amount already.
 

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Does yours have the 2 switch set up?
I remember replacing my switches at least twice. l think mine had x2 4pin switches instead of x1 4pin x1 2pin but my memory isnt the best
 

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No. The CC is operated by 3 switches in the RH binnacle-on/off, SET-,RES+ connected to the module through 4 direct wires and one through the brake switches. The switch assembly for the models with BCM's is getting hard to find. I'd buy another if I was certain it was the switch and if I could be certain any replacement switch was good. Counting earths and feeds the switch has 7 working pins out of the 12 fitted.
 

HSV126

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Sorry I was just referring to the pedal switch
 

MikeC

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Sorry I was just referring to the pedal switch
No worries. I have the 2 brake switch set up. I checked their operation at the CC plug they make and break correctly. All CC individual inputs meet the GMH test requirements but are intermittent with the system test = switch CC on, push brake pedal at the same time you press SET- and RES+ together, if all inputs are correct CRS light should come on.
Maybe it will work when I can get the car out on to an open road, hopefully tomorrow now our CV19 travel limit has been increased to 25km.
 

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For the record the cause of intermittent problem with the CC turned out to be microscopic dry joints on the internal circuit board of the RH binnacle switch, this was compounded by my test efforts loosening the pins in the plug to the actuator. I've ordered a set of fine test backprobes so I can better test electrical plugs while in place.
 

91SS

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For the record the cause of intermittent problem with the CC turned out to be microscopic dry joints on the internal circuit board of the RH binnacle switch, this was compounded by my test efforts loosening the pins in the plug to the actuator. I've ordered a set of fine test backprobes so I can better test electrical plugs while in place.
Hi Mike,

So you ended up just resoldering pins on small binnacle PCB?

Because I occasionally say 3 or 4 times over the winter months get CRS light on after ignition and at those times it is inoperable and then often on same day on another start all is sweet.

Also a little more often will intermittently get electric aerial not coming up when deck is powered on only to work next start or manually a few seconds later so thinking RH binnacle has dry joints.
 

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Yep, and the CC is still working well. My CRS light went intermittent, when it was working the CC system would pass all the GMH recommended tests then later it would just fail. The instrumentation electrics on these vehicles have long ago reached an age where they can develop small micro cracks in the solder joints which can cause these intermittent faults.
Mine took a lot of finding, tried resoldering each joint but this still missed some, then it was necessary to photograph each suspected joint with a phone then blow the photos up to look for cracks.
 

91SS

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Yep, and the CC is still working well. My CRS light went intermittent, when it was working the CC system would pass all the GMH recommended tests then later it would just fail. The instrumentation electrics on these vehicles have long ago reached an age where they can develop small micro cracks in the solder joints which can cause these intermittent faults.
Mine took a lot of finding, tried resoldering each joint but this still missed some, then it was necessary to photograph each suspected joint with a phone then blow the photos up to look for cracks.
Well I'm at the stage to give my level 2 cluster a service.

1) Odometer stopped working. So I assume I buy and replace 2 cogs that normally break. Should I lube gears with silicone grease? It appears that I will have to remove needle. Any precautions? Just make sure its zeroed?

Also are the ones on ebay any good or does anybody know of a good shop or seller?

2) Noticed at the same time speedo didn't seem to operate fully freely and easily dropped to zero. Possibly related to odometer? Anyway only done it once and seemed fixed once I tapped it don't know if coincidence? I suppose they have a voltage regulator as well so it may pay to flow all regulator joints for fuel, temperature, speedo and tacho? Fuel and temp previously done.

3) Probably pays to clean needle stops and should I also lube needle spindle? Noticed @MikeC mentions nulon ezi glide.
So did you just lube stops and needle externally or did you actually also lube mechanism for needle movement?
4) Since this is happening time to sort CRS and electric aerial intermittent issue. Just with dry joints in CRS switch notice on photos of switch on ebay can't really see many joints. Does switch need to be broken further apart to access those?

Thanks in advance.
 
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