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VR 4l60e line pressure adjustment

SUS231

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Hey all, another question that has probably been answered before, anyone know where the line pressure torx screw is on the vr auto?

Only place I can see is the rear passenger side of the auto underneath the speed sensor plug? And will fluid pour out of there if I take it out?

I know this “mod” is frowned upon but just want to see if I can get some slightly quicker and firmer shifts, I have a corvette servo on the way to help anyway.

Thanks!
 

losh1971

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Can't answer your question but to i had a larger reverse boost valve fitted. Another upgrade is to ream your valve body and fitted a bigger valve, mine was already done. The latter reduces slip on TC lockup and is well worth it as it fixes a known weak point in the trans. It also fixes an error code in the VR trans that people mistake for a solenoid (not shift solenoids). The DTC will log the error, but i can't recall what it is called. This solenoid rarely fails and the valve body is the actual issue not the solenoid. The valve body issue is very common. Upgrading the boost valve will give you smoother gear changes. Are you removing the trans to fit the servo?
 
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SUS231

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Can't answer your question but to i had a larger reverse boost valve fitted. Another upgrade is to ream your valve body and fitted a bigger valve, mine was already done. The latter reduces slip on TC lockup and is well worth it as it fixes a known weak point in the trans. It also fixes an error code in the VR trans that people mistake for a solenoid (not shift solenoids). The DTC will log the error, but i can't recall what it is called. This solenoid rarely fails and the valve body is the actual issue not the solenoid. The valve body issue is very common. Upgrading the boost valve will give you smoother gear changes. Are you removing the trans to fit the servo?
Yeah I’ll probably get another low k box one day soon as mine has a couple leaks and has been thrashed, replace rear main seal and shift kit the box with all those goodies while I have one out.

Wasn’t planning on taking trans out for servo, I think I can just squeeze it out, trans got new filter and fluid etc not long ago and hasn’t been driven much so I want to avoid having to spend money to refill the trans again lol
 

EYY

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Only cowboy mechanics touch that epc solenoid. If you really want to do it, don't turn it any further than 1/4 of a turn. Any further and you'll be pulling it back apart to replace the solenoid because they can't really be backed off again.

If you're shift kitting it, there's no need to touch line pressures at all in the tune or by playing with that solenoid. The .500" boost valve will increase line pressure a little across the board and accumulator piston spacers/springs will determine the speed/harshness of shifts.

Basically, just buy a transgo hd2 shiftkit and follow the instructions. If your trans gives up, just move the old valvebody etc to a replacement trans and you're good to go again.
 

losh1971

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Wasn’t planning on taking trans out for servo, I think I can just squeeze it out
let me know how you go. Mech started the job on mine and couldn't get it out as there is not enough space on the VR. I'd be interested in knowing you go about getting it done. My servo is now sitting in my ute box, until i save up and get the rear main replaced. I search high and low on YouTube as well as read the threads on here and I could not figure out 100% that it can be done with the trans in place. Only thing i could find was that everyone already had the trans out when upgrading the servo. I believe it was possible on earlier models like a VN.
 
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SUS231

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Only cowboy mechanics touch that epc solenoid. If you really want to do it, don't turn it any further than 1/4 of a turn. Any further and you'll be pulling it back apart to replace the solenoid because they can't really be backed off again.

If you're shift kitting it, there's no need to touch line pressures at all in the tune or by playing with that solenoid. The .500" boost valve will increase line pressure a little across the board and accumulator piston spacers/springs will determine the speed/harshness of shifts.

Basically, just buy a transgo hd2 shiftkit and follow the instructions. If your trans gives up, just move the old valvebody etc to a replacement trans and you're good to go again.
Yeah only want to do this to my box is because I am going to get a lower kilometre box and rebuild it with shift kit and all the good stuff, just want to play around with this one while it’s in to see what differences they actually make lol, only going to turn it 1/8 maybe closer to 1/4 of a turn
 

SUS231

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let me know how you go. Mech started the job on mine and couldn't get it out as there is not enough space on the VR. I'd be interested in knowing you go about getting it done. My servo is now sitting in my ute box, until i save up and get the rear main replaced. I search high and low on YouTube as well as read the threads on here and I could not figure out 100% that it can be done with the trans in place. Only thing i could find was that everyone already had the trans out when upgrading the servo. I believe it was possible on earlier models like a VN.
Yeah it does look tight when I was under there checking it out myself.. if worst comes to worse I’ll probably unbolt the cross members and engine mounts and tilt the box down a bit? That might get the box low enough out of the trans tunnel to get it out. Hopefully.
 

losh1971

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If you're getting a low k box make sure you buy the right one there are i think three different auto transmissions used on the VR. I wanted to find one in a wreck but trans tech advised me not to as i might have problems getting it to work. He instead told me wait until its slipping and he will fit me in pretty quick, rather than wait the normal 3 - 4 months it normally takes to get in to have work done.
 

SUS231

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If you're getting a low k box make sure you buy the right one there are i think three different auto transmissions used on the VR. I wanted to find one in a wreck but trans tech advised me not to as i might have problems getting it to work. He instead told me wait until its slipping and he will fit me in pretty quick, rather than wait the normal 3 - 4 months it normally takes to get in to have work done.
Oh didn’t think there was that many variants in the first of the 4l60e’s, I’ll have to get all part numbers and make
Sure it’s identical, if not shouldn’t be anything more than some different plugs or wiring? Easy job there. If not I’ll go backwards with a t700 and 808 ecu lol
 

losh1971

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Yeah it does look tight when I was under there checking it out myself.. if worst comes to worse I’ll probably unbolt the cross members and engine mounts and tilt the box down a bit? That might get the box low enough out of the trans tunnel to get it out. Hopefully.
yeah ok, like i said let me know how you go because mech couldn't get the job done. He explored all of the above and found it could not be done. He told me if i find out if lowering the trans, removing the throttle body, etc and getting the trans low enough without removal does indeed give you enough room to squeeze it past the floor then he will have another go. He got so far in and stopped, when it appeared it could not be done.
 
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