VR 5.0L starting issues

So it starts but soon dies?
or cranks but does not start?
or will not crank at all?

 

On top of Deuce's questions, have you set the static timing after replacing the distributor? Needs to be set to 10 degrees BTDC in diagnostic mode (DLC terminals five and six bridged - paper clip or equivalent is fine).

Do you have a fully charged battery?

 

Have you checked for any Error Codes?

If you find any error codes, another thing that causes the car to stall is the Air Intake Temperature Sensor (Located on RHS of Intake Manifold, Halfway down, In between the injectors). Now this will popup a code. When it happens, the engine is at normal operating temperature, then shuts down. (So when engine is cold, it won't shut the engine down)

 

What do you mean by this? Sounds like you may not have set the static timing correctly.

 

A few years ago i had an issue like this.
It turned out to be the anti-theft in the BCM had failed and did not throw a code.
I changed out the BCM eventually (car was off the road for 2-3 months, no idea about forums then just manuals) and the car threw a code 46 i think.
Hall effect trigger was not working.
but as the anti theft had buggered up it would crank but not start.
A lot of people suggested at the time, it was the ignition interface module. however mine turned out to be the hall effect trigger in the dizzy itself.
If you are going to try to swap bcm's, remember to use the key head associated with the bcm you are using, as this will be a different code.

also checking the timing was set correctly can only help as everyone makes mistakes once in a while,
especially like me when I'm tired.
I hope this helps as I know how frustrating it can truly be!

 

this is really interesting.... ive had key problems for a while.. half the time I turn it and it does nothing, keep trying and it starts fine..
all of a sudden now it will crank I have fuel spark ect. but no fire..
could the imtermittent key problem be signs of bcm failiure coming up?.. ive tried my spare key and no difference.

 

The key problem could be related to the silver ring around the ignition that the key contacts.

I had to have mine replaced years ago due to intermittent starting issues.

 

yeah.. ill try to bend them out and see what happens.. im just wondering if the bcm or key barrel is bad somewhere could the car crank but not fire

 

okay no codes... it sounds like its not even trying to fire. its got spark, injector pulse, fuel pressure, tried replacing all relays and ignition module. got me stumped.

 

If you can try swapping out the bcm's and see how you go.
to buy them new they are not cheap so if you can try a friends that was the same level as yours or pick up a second hander (and key fob),
that may help eliminate it.
Like i said before I had the same issue and it would not throw a code until the bcm was replaced.
Good luck.

 

if I leave key on ignition it skips bcm doesn't it

 

my mate (mechanic) tested the fuel press by pulling the line off the rail and see if it pisses out... im not convinced so im changing the whole fuelrail/pressure reg with my spare.
my thoughts are a buggered pressure reg wouldent have enough pressure to squirt the injectors properly, or it could be leaking up the vac hose and flooding the engine... either way ill illuminate that this morning before I tow the car

 

so its not the reg... everythings there it just wont go, doesn't even sound like it wants too..

 

Hey man
If you have spark, fuel, air etc, it might be that the starter mototr isnt turning the motor quick enough to fire.
Happened to me before on my falcon, changed starter motor and it started.

 

yea that's just the cool part. 80% of my parts are less than a couple months old. my starter included
im leaning on the halleffect. its supposed to tell the computer when to do thinks in order. so im thinking if that's playing up now then it aint firing the spark/injectors at the right time

 

Leaving the key on for x amount of time may not bypass the anti theft circuit if it is faulty in the bcm.

 

as far as the scan tool says it hasn't activated theft status tho

 

The engine should still crank even if the Hall Effect Sensor is faulty.