I am wondering if you can help me. I just bought my fathers VR which is in exception condition and running fine up until the hot days we had from Sat - Mon. Saturday after approximately an hour of driving in 40deg heat the car died, loosing all power and lighting the engine and oil fault light. I was able to restart and drive for another 10 minutes before this happened again. After letting the car sit for 20 minutes we were able to drive it to a family place to let it cool down and was able to drive it home without a problem. The drive was approximately 40mins, after idling in the driveway for 20mins the same problem occurred, died, engine and oil fault lights on. Error code brought up a problem with the CAS. The car was taken to the mechanic and the CAS replaced under warranty. Discussion with my father, he had a similar problem which occurred under heat. He took the steps to replace the CAS and DFI block which are still under warranty. However, replacing the CAS has not solved the problem, so I am still searching for a solution. My main problem is that nothing has failed completely, so it is still working unless it gets over ~39°C If there are suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.
Tried checking for a loose connection at the oil pressure switch? Maybe the switch is on its way out and going open circuit when the engine (and oil) gets too hot. I think if the switch reports no oil pressure it cuts the fuel pump. Dont hold me to this though.
If you have a loss of all power I would looking at the body connections from the battery, alternator and earth connections. If there is still power then I would be checking the wiring for the CAS and DFI module.
Can you explain just died. Did it just go off as if you switched the ign off or did it splutter and shudder? if you can still replicate the dying, once it has died, pour cold water on the CAS. then try to restart it. also check your coils to see if one feels hotter than the others, if so then that could be your problem.
Something to check. I still think it is a component though, wiring problems should not be temperature dependant. There is no loss of all power, just the engine stops. CAS fault did occur, and a new CAS has been replaced under warranty on Monday. The fault still occured afterwards. DFI module has been replaced nearly a year ago, genuine and is still under warranty so it is possible that we managed to get a faulty spare part. Died as in the engine just stops. No noticeable splutter, erratic revs or noise just the engine stops (obv. revs go to zero) and the engine and oil light come on. This has occurred whilst driving 3 times, and once whilst idling at home. At home was after a short drive and I wanted to see if the fault would occur. Part of the trouble is it is hard to pin point without temperature Saturday is 37 so I'm hoping the problem will occur. It is a good suggestion regarding the cold water. I'll also check the coils tomorrow to see if there are any differences.
Check the wiring connection to the DFI module. The female side of the connections have to be adjusted to grip really tight. A bit tricky and time consuming to sit there and do it correctly but worth it. You wouldn't think it but heat will effect this multi-pin connection, especially if it has been undone a few times (or you have had roadside assist guys monkeying around with connections trying to get you going at some time).
