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VR bypassing bcm with memcal no VATS

bluekart77

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so does the relay i pulled out stay out now and i just wire into the pin slot?
not sure if the dwg attachment worked properly but i think it may be right?
ithe battery is in the car where the passenger seat would be, ive only extended the cable, still connected to the starter motor, it should stay like this as it turned over today ok?
 

bluekart77

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VR wiring.jpg
i think this might of worked. will the wiring work like this.
cheers
 

aussie4life

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Similar but not the same. Unless you wire up your ignition to the kill switch. As for the relay, have a look under where the relay sits for the wire that the pin 86 sits in. Then wire up the new trigger to this wire with the relay in the slot.
 

Jxfwsf

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or quicker than playing with the relay, near the fuse box there is a plug with 2 wires a thick purple wire and a thin light colored wire, make a small jumper wire, unplug this and with the ignition on touch the purple wire to the positive post on the battery (this wire is the one that is going directly to the starter solenoid) if it turns over and starts then the ecu is working fine and vats is disabled.

unfortunately the above schematics for wiring are ok for an old hq or vb commodore, with a vr it's going to take a bit more than 2 wires into the engine bay, there is 4 points to the engine loom that will require ign power.
 

aussie4life

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Unless he leaves the ignition as is and just uses a push button start from battery to switch and then to trigger terminal on the relay. This way he wont need any major rewiring and can get going much faster. He would just need to tirn the key to on and press the button to start
 

bluekart77

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ok, got the idea of wiring into the relay no problems. really would like to do away with the key, so i guess ill need to find what wires from the key i need to take to the kill switch in order to still start it? i have a fear in this position the battery will always be live and draining???
thanks for the help, i can see the finish line!!!
 

aussie4life

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you would need to isolate the on wire (and maybe the acc). have a large gauge wire feeding both switches. then i would be a matter of using the 12+ feed for both switches. on the kill switch, have one side coming from the batter and the other side goes to acc and on wire. then all you would need to do is use the 12+ from the battery to also feed the momentary switch for the starter relay. shouldnt be that hard to find out which one is which.

grab a test light, earth it to the chassis with the alligator clip, then use the probe to see which wire has power as you turn the key. if you can find the acc wire then the next one along should be the on wire. have a go and if you still struggle then drop us a pm and ill go find out from my vr
 

wamboin23

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instead of having a rats nest of wiring running everywhere, why don't you just fix the problem.

much easy than running wires to every corner of the car, and then wondering where to start when it won't go at the track.
 

bluekart77

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i have chased a race shop that sells the loom and switchpanelwoth ecu for $700, but ive spent enough on bits for this thing im trying to keep the cost down , but thanks for the advice. if it all turns sour then the loom maybe the way to go. so for now ill take the rats nest.
ill be taking a crack at the wiring on saturday so ill keep you posted
once again the help is much appreciated, you guys make this site what it is.....awesome for idiots like me!!!!
 

bluekart77

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ok just another thing, i tried to bridge the relay today from pin 87 to pin 30, with the key off it still cranks over, still no fuel yet, i didnt think it would go with no power from the key?
anyway, got relay out to wire from pin 87 purple white wire. i reckon acc wire at key is the brown and wire to start is the purple one. not sure if i wire this ti the kill switch as then wont it always have power to the starter and want to start? thought it might go on the other side of the momentary button back to the relay? or am i just starting to get confused............
 
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