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VR finally started

lwessel

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UPDATE: so after using a compresser inside of Dizzy drying out and condensation, dropping oil that prev owner overfilled, correction of fuses put in (wrong amps) she's running abit sluggish but im ok with that Shout out to @Blackwolf101 (still need help with electrical issues pls) @BlackVXGTS @BowTie @wildfiremaint @VS 5.0 for your advice and tips
 

Blackwolf101

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UPDATE: so after using a compresser inside of Dizzy drying out and condensation, dropping oil that prev owner overfilled, correction of fuses put in (wrong amps) she's running abit sluggish but im ok with that Shout out to @Blackwolf101 (still need help with electrical issues pls) @BlackVXGTS @BowTie @wildfiremaint @VS 5.0 for your advice and tips
Not sure if you've fixed the 'cutting out while driving' bit tho with what you've listed above, not meaning to sound negative but those things would have no effect on that, so your problem may return, sounds intermittent. In regards to running sluggish, try replacing spark plugs and all the sparkplug leads (including the one coming from ignition coil to dizzy) not sure if you've already done that tho, can't remember. The sluggish may also be that your timing isn't quite right, so you may need to adjust that.. having a timimg strobe light for this would help.
 

lwessel

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Not sure if you've fixed the 'cutting out while driving' bit tho with what you've listed above, not meaning to sound negative but those things would have no effect on that, so your problem may return, sounds intermittent. In regards to running sluggish, try replacing spark plugs and all the sparkplug leads (including the one coming from ignition coil to dizzy) not sure if you've already done that tho, can't remember. The sluggish may also be that your timing isn't quite right, so you may need to adjust that.. having a timimg strobe light for this would help.
Well drove it for about 20mins doing happy laps around my house lol, needs a tune also plugs are clean and sparking well. oil really bad under car gurnyed half off to see sump plug for leaks seams to be a very slow leak aswell as needs new gasket on cover, will need to get all off undercarage as it smokes when exhurst gets hot have still wires all over the place inside car concerning, sunroof rear dimister etc omg so much to do
 

Blackwolf101

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Well drove it for about 20mins doing happy laps around my house lol, needs a tune also plugs are clean and sparking well. oil really bad under car gurnyed half off to see sump plug for leaks seams to be a very slow leak aswell as needs new gasket on cover, will need to get all off undercarage as it smokes when exhurst gets hot have still wires all over the place inside car concerning, sunroof rear dimister etc omg so much to do
Sometimes sparkplugs can have a tiny crack in the white ceramic part (and if near the metal bit then you may not even see it) and the sparks will spark within the crack and not where they supposed to. The ceramic porcelain stuff is an insulator, any cracks in that will cause it to fail and you may not even see anything wrong with the sparkplug on visual examination. They can crack when you fitting them in or removing them if the socket you're using is pressed on an angle a bit, it's important to keep the socket straight when you're fitting or removing sparkplugs to avoid this damage.. the ceramic on the sparkplugs is very fragile. Re oil everywhere.. get like a 4L bottle of mineral turpentine from like bunnings, put in a spray bottle and spray it all over the oily parts, leave it for 5 minutes or so and just hose it off good, the oil will just come off with water then (repeat if some stays on once engine dries).. also do it with engine cold, otherwise the turps will evaporate quickly before disolving the oil.
 

lwessel

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Sometimes sparkplugs can have a tiny crack in the white ceramic part (and if near the metal bit then you may not even see it) and the sparks will spark within the crack and not where they supposed to. The ceramic porcelain stuff is an insulator, any cracks in that will cause it to fail and you may not even see anything wrong with the sparkplug on visual examination. They can crack when you fitting them in or removing them if the socket you're using is pressed on an angle a bit, it's important to keep the socket straight when you're fitting or removing sparkplugs to avoid this damage.. the ceramic on the sparkplugs is very fragile. Re oil everywhere.. get like a 4L bottle of mineral turpentine from like bunnings, put in a spray bottle and spray it all over the oily parts, leave it for 5 minutes or so and just hose it off good, the oil will just come off with water then (repeat if some stays on once engine dries).. also do it with engine cold, otherwise the turps will evaporate quickly before disolving the oil.
Previous owner put new leads on all spark plugs and dizzy to coil but not sure if new plugs deff should replace eh just to be sure no cracks etc Turps sounds a better option than degreaser cheers for that
 

Blackwolf101

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Previous owner put new leads on all spark plugs and dizzy to coil but not sure if new plugs deff should replace eh just to be sure no cracks etc Turps sounds a better option than degreaser cheers for that
Degreaser is basically turps, but because it's called 'degreaser' it costs more LOL compared to about $10 for 4 litres of turps. You can also soak bits in it to clean them right off from any oil or grease.. except rubber bits, as it will ruin those.. but just spraying on engine hoses etc and hose off in few minutes is not enough to damage them. You can use it to clean off any oil of your hands also, but because it's nasty to the skin if prolonged contact, i deffo wouldn't advise you to go playing with it with hands immersed in it for too long say when you're soaking bits etc. Btw diesel, or lamp/torch oil like citronella are also degreasers (not as good as turps tho) anything that contains hydrocarbon liquid. Here's a tip totally off the subject.. they're also perfect for removing glue (not super glue) or the sticky bit (like after you peel a label off) or to briefly soak and remove paper (or other) labels easily without them tearing to little frustrating bits.. also to remove candle wax after you dripped some on your clothes or table cloth or carpet or furniture, as it disolves candle wax. It also helps remove thin layers of hardened silicone (after you remove most of it with spatula or knife etc) which is otherwise nearly impossible to do. And it disolves or cleans off un-hardened silicone also. Re sparkplugs, you can test them individually. Remove all and connect lead from ignition coil to one spark plug at a time and hold the metal nut part of it against the chassis or metal parts of engine while you get someone try cranking the engine, but don't touch the spark plug, hold it by the cable with hands well away from the sparkplug (temporarily taping or loosely cable-tieing a solid piece of plastic rod or similar (i dunno.. a plastic ladle lol) to the end bit of cable to hold it with will help it not being so floppy).. if you see the sparks happening in regular intervals in the gap where it supposed to, then it's fine, if only one or two sparks and irregulary, then it's stuffed. Just be careful because if you pull it away from the chassis while doing this, you may get a spark jump to your hand, and 50-60,000 volts is no fun, it bites pretty hard (trust me on that lol) it can jump across 5-6cm.. also don't do this close to any electrical connectors or sensors etc, because if you accidentally pull away and the spark jumps across to one of these connectors it can destroy your ECU or other electrical stuff. You just gotta remember that while the nut of the sparkplug is not held against the engine or chassis (basically 'ground' or the negative), you got an 'open circuit' on the high voltage lead and it will look for the closest thing to jump across to (same as lightning during a storm, just smaller scale) but as long as you hold the sparkplug nut against the ground, the spark in the gap won't allow the voltage in the lead to get any higher than about 1000V so it's all good then.
 
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losh1971

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If the plugs are suspect chuck the lot. They are consumable best to replace them at no more than 50k, even if you think they are ok. For under 40 bucks a set i wouldn't even worry about testing them.
 

lwessel

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Degreaser is basically turps, but because it's called 'degreaser' it costs more LOL compared to about $10 for 4 litres of turps. You can also soak bits in it to clean them right off from any oil or grease.. except rubber bits, as it will ruin those.. but just spraying on engine hoses etc and hose off in few minutes is not enough to damage them. You can use it to clean off any oil of your hands also, but because it's nasty to the skin if prolonged contact, i deffo wouldn't advise you to go playing with it with hands immersed in it for too long say when you're soaking bits etc. Btw diesel, or lamp/torch oil like citronella are also degreasers (not as good as turps tho) anything that contains hydrocarbon liquid. Here's a tip totally off the subject.. they're also perfect for removing glue (not super glue) or the sticky bit (like after you peel a label off) or to briefly soak and remove paper (or other) labels easily without them tearing to little frustrating bits.. also to remove candle wax after you dripped some on your clothes or table cloth or carpet or furniture, as it disolves candle wax. It also helps remove thin layers of hardened silicone (after you remove most of it with spatula or knife etc) which is otherwise nearly impossible to do. And it disolves or cleans off un-hardened silicone also. Re sparkplugs, you can test them individually. Remove all and connect lead from ignition coil to one spark plug at a time and hold the metal nut part of it against the chassis or metal parts of engine while you get someone try cranking the engine, but don't touch the spark plug, hold it by the cable with hands well away from the sparkplug (temporarily taping or loosely cable-tieing a solid piece of plastic rod or similar (i dunno.. a plastic ladle lol) to the end bit of cable to hold it with will help it not being so floppy).. if you see the sparks happening in regular intervals in the gap where it supposed to, then it's fine, if only one or two sparks and irregulary, then it's stuffed. Just be careful because if you pull it away from the chassis while doing this, you may get a spark jump to your hand, and 50-60,000 volts is no fun, it bites pretty hard (trust me on that lol) it can jump across 5-6cm.. also don't do this close to any electrical connectors or sensors etc, because if you accidentally pull away and the spark jumps across to one of these connectors it can destroy your ECU or other electrical stuff. You just gotta remember that while the nut of the sparkplug is not held against the engine or chassis (basically 'ground' or the negative), you got an 'open circuit' on the high voltage lead and it will look for the closest thing to jump across to (same as lightning during a storm, just smaller scale) but as long as you hold the sparkplug nut against the ground, the spark in the gap won't allow the voltage in the lead to get any higher than about 1000V so it's all good then.
Turps i have in my shed will give it a go, great tips cheers I think its better to just replace all plugs etc as i dont want to risk frying the ecu!
 

lwessel

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If the plugs are suspect chuck the lot. They are consumable best to replace them at no more than 50k, even if you think they are ok. For under 40 bucks a set i wouldn't even worry about testing them.
Yeah deff getting new plugs and leads
 
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