Draught4me
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2008
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Members Ride
- VR S2
Now I've been on this forum for a while, and have gained many helpful pieces of information. Normally if I have a problem, I just have a quick search and my problems solved.
I found 3 other threads with similar issues, but node have solved my problem. Well, the search nearly helped here.. let me explain.
A few months back (actually xmas morning) I was driving my VR S2 and it just cut out. It restarted and I continued on. This was the start of this happening on many occasions.
After doing some searching I was guided towards looking at the CAS. Anyway I'll skip through a bit and let you know that I had the DFI module replaced (twice) and the CAS replaced, and also the coil pack.
This worked for about 2 weeks then I had the mechanics look at it again. This time the alternator was replaced (possible unrelated) and another CAS was installed.
This was fine for about another week then the same problem. This time I replaced the fuel pump and the idler pully (it was noisy - it's not related). I then replaced the oil pressure sensor and this seemed to fix the problem for a while.
It's about this time I need to let you into a bit more info. The VR has been pretty well looked after and has 170k on the clock. The problem arises exactly at the time where the choke cuts out (or where the thermostat opens) - just as the temp guage starts to move.
So exact is this that I broke down 3 times in exactly the same place (pulled into the same car park !).
Even when I thought the oil pressure sensor fixed the problem there was always a small bit of concern when reaching this'temperature' - the idle would play up a bit, but it didn't stall.
The other funny thing is that I can let the car just idle and I cant reproduce the problem (could just be a fluke as it's an intermittant problem).
I'm in the process of bying a VT because I'm sick of this happeneing, but believe it's too good a car to get rid of.
My list of suspects are the MAP/MAF sensor - the O2 sensor - the ECU (one time when it wouldn't restart at all the mechanic 'borrowed' another ecu and it made no difference - so I'm inclined to believe it's not the ecu).
All of the leads/plugs have been replaced, and it had a complete service/tune recently (2 weeks ago) finding no apparent problems.
So, here we are. I've had a good read through the 3 threads that I could find that have a similar theme, but I'm at a loss as to what to replace next.
I'm sure there are a few other things I've done that I've forgotten about.
Any further ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers.
PS, after typing this in at work (I cant log on to this site from work) I had a mate suggest the MAP sensor, or the throttle body sensor. He said that the TBS (throttle body sensor) would also explain my below average fuel economy (I get about 350k's per tank - and I drive very sedately) - can anybody confirm this.
I have a mate who's a mechanic - he's stumped, but if I buy a few parts he'll put them in for me -so any ideas are appreciated.
I found 3 other threads with similar issues, but node have solved my problem. Well, the search nearly helped here.. let me explain.
A few months back (actually xmas morning) I was driving my VR S2 and it just cut out. It restarted and I continued on. This was the start of this happening on many occasions.
After doing some searching I was guided towards looking at the CAS. Anyway I'll skip through a bit and let you know that I had the DFI module replaced (twice) and the CAS replaced, and also the coil pack.
This worked for about 2 weeks then I had the mechanics look at it again. This time the alternator was replaced (possible unrelated) and another CAS was installed.
This was fine for about another week then the same problem. This time I replaced the fuel pump and the idler pully (it was noisy - it's not related). I then replaced the oil pressure sensor and this seemed to fix the problem for a while.
It's about this time I need to let you into a bit more info. The VR has been pretty well looked after and has 170k on the clock. The problem arises exactly at the time where the choke cuts out (or where the thermostat opens) - just as the temp guage starts to move.
So exact is this that I broke down 3 times in exactly the same place (pulled into the same car park !).
Even when I thought the oil pressure sensor fixed the problem there was always a small bit of concern when reaching this'temperature' - the idle would play up a bit, but it didn't stall.
The other funny thing is that I can let the car just idle and I cant reproduce the problem (could just be a fluke as it's an intermittant problem).
I'm in the process of bying a VT because I'm sick of this happeneing, but believe it's too good a car to get rid of.
My list of suspects are the MAP/MAF sensor - the O2 sensor - the ECU (one time when it wouldn't restart at all the mechanic 'borrowed' another ecu and it made no difference - so I'm inclined to believe it's not the ecu).
All of the leads/plugs have been replaced, and it had a complete service/tune recently (2 weeks ago) finding no apparent problems.
So, here we are. I've had a good read through the 3 threads that I could find that have a similar theme, but I'm at a loss as to what to replace next.
I'm sure there are a few other things I've done that I've forgotten about.
Any further ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers.
PS, after typing this in at work (I cant log on to this site from work) I had a mate suggest the MAP sensor, or the throttle body sensor. He said that the TBS (throttle body sensor) would also explain my below average fuel economy (I get about 350k's per tank - and I drive very sedately) - can anybody confirm this.
I have a mate who's a mechanic - he's stumped, but if I buy a few parts he'll put them in for me -so any ideas are appreciated.