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VR II stalling problem

Draught4me

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Now I've been on this forum for a while, and have gained many helpful pieces of information. Normally if I have a problem, I just have a quick search and my problems solved.
I found 3 other threads with similar issues, but node have solved my problem. Well, the search nearly helped here.. let me explain.
A few months back (actually xmas morning) I was driving my VR S2 and it just cut out. It restarted and I continued on. This was the start of this happening on many occasions.
After doing some searching I was guided towards looking at the CAS. Anyway I'll skip through a bit and let you know that I had the DFI module replaced (twice) and the CAS replaced, and also the coil pack.
This worked for about 2 weeks then I had the mechanics look at it again. This time the alternator was replaced (possible unrelated) and another CAS was installed.
This was fine for about another week then the same problem. This time I replaced the fuel pump and the idler pully (it was noisy - it's not related). I then replaced the oil pressure sensor and this seemed to fix the problem for a while.
It's about this time I need to let you into a bit more info. The VR has been pretty well looked after and has 170k on the clock. The problem arises exactly at the time where the choke cuts out (or where the thermostat opens) - just as the temp guage starts to move.
So exact is this that I broke down 3 times in exactly the same place (pulled into the same car park !).
Even when I thought the oil pressure sensor fixed the problem there was always a small bit of concern when reaching this'temperature' - the idle would play up a bit, but it didn't stall.
The other funny thing is that I can let the car just idle and I cant reproduce the problem (could just be a fluke as it's an intermittant problem).
I'm in the process of bying a VT because I'm sick of this happeneing, but believe it's too good a car to get rid of.
My list of suspects are the MAP/MAF sensor - the O2 sensor - the ECU (one time when it wouldn't restart at all the mechanic 'borrowed' another ecu and it made no difference - so I'm inclined to believe it's not the ecu).
All of the leads/plugs have been replaced, and it had a complete service/tune recently (2 weeks ago) finding no apparent problems.
So, here we are. I've had a good read through the 3 threads that I could find that have a similar theme, but I'm at a loss as to what to replace next.
I'm sure there are a few other things I've done that I've forgotten about.
Any further ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers.

PS, after typing this in at work (I cant log on to this site from work) I had a mate suggest the MAP sensor, or the throttle body sensor. He said that the TBS (throttle body sensor) would also explain my below average fuel economy (I get about 350k's per tank - and I drive very sedately) - can anybody confirm this.
I have a mate who's a mechanic - he's stumped, but if I buy a few parts he'll put them in for me -so any ideas are appreciated.
 

keygen

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u sed - The problem arises exactly at the time where the choke cuts out (or where the thermostat opens) .

have you replaced the coolant temp sensor/s yet ? ( dunno if there's 1 or 2 etc )
i think there is a spec for the coolant sensor in the gregory's manual ... not sure .
& has the harmonic balancer blades or chopper wheel been looked at to see if they haven't been bent or damaged ? ( gap checked etc )
& can/has your mechanic mate checked the tps operation ?

more stabs in the dark = you've changed u're fuel filter ? or possibly **** in your fuel tank intermittantly blocking the fuel supply ...
 

hako

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My first guesses would have been the same as Keygen, so for more stabs what about the ignition switch - the electrical switch part below the actual key barrel or maybe EFI or fuel pump (FP) relay dodgy.
Have you checked for logged fault codes?
By the way - excellent post as you give heaps of info.
 

Draught4me

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Thanks for the advice guys. I went to repco on friday and bout an O2 sensor, a MAP sensor, and a TPS sensor. Will be doing them tomorrow and see how it goes. I'm also going to buy one of those cables from ebay and stick the lappy inthe car when I drive to work. That way next time it happens I should catch the culprit !!
Just to be throrough, I replaced the fuel pump, and the fuel filter at the same time :)
Thanks for the input !

Cheers.
 

Draught4me

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OK, update. I installed the O2 sensor, the MAP sensor,and the TPS sensor. Wasn't as hard as I thought :) Took it for a drive and all was good. In fact I thought I had fixed the problem because I noticed that when I slow down to turn into the driveway at home, or perform a similar manouvre the 'shudder' (for want of a better description) had gone !! Unfortunately I was heading to the pub last night, turned into the side street and the 'shudder' returned. I just got into the carpark, and STALL :(
I couldn't belive it :( Well at least Ihave a little tell tale sign of impending doom :)
I checked the error codes this morning and got 46 and 49. But once again this seems to be little help. I'm not sure what my problem is, but it's not the CAS - I've already replaced it twice :(
ANy more ideas ?? I'm arranging one of those diagnostic cables atm with a member here - I'm hoping that will help.

Cheers.
 

Draught4me

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BTW anybody got a series II VR ECU (including chip) that they want to sell ? Even thought I'm not convinced this is my problem I'm willing to buy one to rule it out once and for all.
Cheers.
 

Draught4me

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Ok, I've installed a new ecu+chip (from the wreckers), and will see how it goes tomorrow morning.
Cheers.
 

Draught4me

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Another update. I installed the new ecu+chip - test drove it last night, and all seemed well. Took off this morning, and sure enough, in my normal spot, it stalled again. I've got it breaking down in front of the same house everyday. Obviously has something to do with the temp of some sort.
Was thinking about changing over the coolant temp sender - my thinking is it's faulty and it's telling the engine that it's hotter than it really is and the ecu goes into failsafe mode ??
I'm hoping to have my cable in the next day or two - I beeieve that the software is a 20 second trial version. Well 20 seconds will be enough for me. I am that good at predicting where it will break down. I've also managed to find a few 'full' versions on usenet ;)
I'll keep updating this until it's fixed.
Cheers.
 

Draught4me

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OK, this update has been a long time coming. Mainly due to the fact that I wanted to be sure before posting a solution, and partly because I'm lazy :) - But it's been about 6 months now and I haven't had a problem at all, so I'm comfident that I have solved MY problem.
It turned out that my initial diagnossis (by the RAA bloke) was correct. On the very first time I broke down he said it was the SFI and the cable. I replaced the DFI at least twice, but it turned out to be the cable that was at fault. I had this rewired - and I must admit I also replaced the temp sender unit at the same time, so this MAY have played a part ?? - but since that time - not a single problem.
Hope this helps somebody !

Cheers.
 
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