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VR V6 running lean.

losh1971

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If they were 2nd hand they don't need run in thought they were new.
no but i resprayed them. Will pot belly black mess with the sensor?
 

delcowizzid

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If it' on the outside nope if you sprayed it inside maybe lol
 

VPRob

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For what it's worth, when I fitted a (heated) VR O2 sensor in my VP I had to upgrade the earth connections before it would run without the CEL coming on once it got up to temp.
 

losh1971

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For what it's worth, when I fitted a (heated) VR O2 sensor in my VP I had to upgrade the earth connections before it would run without the CEL coming on once it got up to temp.

How did you go about that Rob? Did you splice in an extra wire to the harness and ground it near by?
 

VPRob

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It was 3 or 4 years ago so I'm a bit hazy about exactly what I did. I think the VR sensor is a 4 wire job so I took a power source for the heater coil off the injector circuit and ran one earth to the earth on the front of the block and one to the firewall. I think the sensor earth went to the firewall.
I got a mech. to do the install first (including a mount point at the VR spot further down the engine pipe) and he combined the heater coil and sensor earths, I think at the tranny. Threw O2 codes.
I ended up with the sensor mounted at the top of the engine pipe (original VP location closer to the engine) and separated the earths.
The VS also had probs when Holden installed heated O2 sensor(s) and they recommended the cure of cutting the heater power cable. There are posts on JCs on correcting it properly by up-grading the earth connections. Those posts pointed me in the direction I took.
 
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VPRob

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Had a look under the hood for a reminder and I have 2 additional earth wires running to earth points on the front of the block. One goes to the point on the bottom of the alternator bracket and the other to an earth point just below this. I don't believe I cut into the loom anywhere but just made sure the O2 sensor had 2 separate earths. I figure I didn't earth onto the firewall but I couldn't see too well in the gathering gloom and I would have to pull the inlet pipe off to get a good look.
 

losh1971

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So after a reset I now get 44 and 56 only; 31 and 13 have gone and I have driven 60km round trip. This is suggesting to me the CEL light and paperclip method is quite unreliable, as I suspected because I have had sensors fail yet not show up on the CEL type scan. If I connect the ECU up to a decent scan tool it will definitely give me error 31 as that will never properly go away as security has been disabled. 13 is an intermittent fault and may resurface at some point. I'm kinda thinking 44 & 56 may be something I have to live with because I think it's either that or go back to stock exhaust. I'm wondering if it might be worth shifting the O2 sensor to a different location?? I'd be keen on thoughts on this idea.
 

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Where is your o2 sensor vr needs to be in the exhaust after the y pipe merges both sides into 1 and must be a 4 wire heated sensor.error code 31 shouldn' come up if the tune is done properly for no vats.all the o2 ones are either o2 sensor not in the factory type location reading all 6 cylinders or not getting power or dead or injectors are dirty or the tunes to far out of wack for your setup
 

losh1971

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02 is in factory VR location. Proper 4 wire VR location
 

losh1971

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all the o2 ones are either o2 sensor not in the factory type location reading all 6 cylinders or not getting power or dead or injectors are dirty or the tunes to far out of wack for your setup

Engine runs like a dream, would have thought any injectors not working would caused it to run rough??? Tune may be out but I was told by Mace that the tune suits the headers I have already done as well as future upgrades which are CAI and Mace roller rockers. If the tune is out what are my options? Should I find a place with a gas analyser?? CEL's tend to come on early in the morning when temps are around 3deg this morn it came on soon after I took off and stayed on for about 1min. Normal driving doesn't seem to bring on the CEL. But today when I floored it and got up around 3k it came on briefly, like 10 seconds. Would it be a good idea to have the ECU scanned? Just I'm not convinced of the reliability of the paperclip method as it hasn't always picked up on codes when parts have failed.
 
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