[VS ACCLAIM] Recommended Work

[FinalCause]

Well, after a bit of work ive got her driving well. Ended up replacing the coil packs and the DFI Module. $340 fitted...not too bad.

Thats the good news.

The not so good news is the list of "recommended work" i recieved from profix...

=============================
Temp Sender Unit for ECU - Broken
2x Battery Terminals
2x Bar Brushes F/R - Perished
Pin Kit - rubbers - split/crushed
Shockers All Round - soft leak
Front/Rear unijoints - 1-3mm movement
2x Sagged Engine mounts
2x Roccer Covers - Oil leaks
High & Low press Power Steering hoses - weeping fluid.
=============================

How many of these are essential and how many were just listed to get coin?

The car drives nice, i know i need to still work on it abit though.


Any advice on the list? Suggestions, solutions, prices etc?

Thanks heaps guys

Cause.

 

[hako]

It sounds pretty normal to me - all Commo's are high mileage by now and you would expect most if not all of those faults to be detected. None are terminal and all can be done by you when you have the time.
That's my opinion but remember I don't like spending money.

 

[VS Omega]

I'd degrease the engine and have a look for yourself where the leaks are coming from, that way at least you'll know if the things they've listed are actually the things which are leaking (sucks to pay to have leaks fixed and they're still there!)

Rocker covers you could do yourself fairly easily along with the terminals.

You can check the shockers by bouncing the car

 

[greenacc]

high press power steering pipe, -the metal ones, if thats the one he means can be fixed for the price of a few little rubber o rings. Undo the nuts, replace o ring and refit.
If its bouncy and you want to do the struts do the bushes at the same time.

 

[seraphic06]

I would recommend that you go and get yourself a second opinion because Profix have an appaling reputation - especially for doing work that doesn't need to be done or doing work that is not up to scratch.

 

[alex2_s]

Temp Sender Unit for ECU - Broken

About $90-$95 plus minimal labour to install.... is it giving off a fault code (Check engine light on)... if not wouldn't really bother unless after quest for best fuel economy

2x Battery Terminals

Cheap enough, but check yourself if the terminals are loose or visibly corroded. No huge deal I guess.

2x Bar Brushes F/R - Perished
Pin Kit - rubbers - split/crushed

Unless the suspension is quite blatantly playing up (clunks, funny creaking noises etc) I wouldn't really bother... maybe the sway bar links (I assume thats what it refers to) they are about $50 - 60, and usually result in 'clunks' when going into driveways etc which you should be able to tell yourself, or just move with your hand the sway bar link pin which runs vertically up from the sway bar (skinny metal pole thingy) to check for free play/movement

Shockers All Round - soft leak

Would improve handling, braking if you drive hard etc, otherwise don't really bother... expensive

Front/Rear unijoints - 1-3mm movement

Cheap enough, probably worth looking into if they are bad enough (clunks/bangs when putting into gear when staying still, backing off the throttle, giving it more when coasting etc) as may cause diff and tranny wear if left untreated... they aren't much more than about $30 an end I THINK....

2x Sagged Engine mounts

About $70-80 each, plus quite a fair bit of labour ($200 or so up) ... If they aren't too bad (no vibrating at idle, clunks/engine movement when taking off etc) and you don't drive the car that hard don't bother

2x Roccer Covers - Oil leaks

Just check your oil level often and monitor the extent of the leak regularly! Cheap enough I suppose, but they seem a bit unusual to leak as they are a soft rubber construction that is reusable if the covers are removed for any reason

High & Low press Power Steering hoses - weeping fluid.

Once again, just check the fluid level a bit more often and make sure its not pissing out fluid, but once again, cheap enough.

The car drives nice, i know i need to still work on it abit though.

Save the money on the above repairs and just ensure the engine oil/filter, ATF fluid + filter is changed, coolant flushed/changed and any leaking/cracked/old coolant hoses replaced, wheel alignment / balance ,tyre pressures are right and nothing blatantly obvious is alarming (clunks in the driveline/suspension and things like that) and that would be better spending of money to ensure a durable, not-breaking-down-as often car.... good luck.