Vs calais abs replacing front rotors and pads question ?. Please

Never had a problem with slowly winding the piston back into the caliper with a g clamp.

 

as above, G clamp and old pad to push the piston back in slowly. Keep an eye on the fluid level in ur brake reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow

 

It should not affect the ABS...

 

It will be fine, just slowly push the piston back don't force it. Might aswell do a brake bleed while you at it. After everything is done make sure you pump the brakes before starting the car!!

 

It won't break it but it is possible to push residue sitting in the brake lines back into the ABS valves and cause them to later stick. It is unlikely, especially if the brake system has been maintained.

I just push the pistons back.

 

I remember reading somewhere that u had to get tech2 to bleed the brakes because of the abs, and to get all the air out. I could be wrong.

 

U only need to cycle the abs if U have an air issue before the abs system, changing calipers only requires a normal bleed of the brake system.

No need to bleed when changing pads and rotors unless U have had prior issues

 

The absolute correct way to push the pistons back in and not create any problems at al is to use a proper squeeze clamp on the brake line hose which will stop any fluid going backwards and then connect a bleeder bottle hose to the bleed nipple. Open up the bleed nipple and the push the piston back into the caliper which in turn will push the brake fluid out through the nipple to the bottle. Once done close the bleed nipple and then release the clamp.

Forcing brake fluid backwards can damage the cup seals inside the master cylinder.

In a nut shell that is the official way of doing the job but most people just wind a G clamp against the piston and push it back in. Butchers way of doing the job.

 

The Commodore workshop manuals all say that when renewing brake pads on standard or ABS equipped vehicles, to just slowly push the pistons back into the caliper whilst keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. Theres no mention of clamping off brake hoses and releasing the excess fluid through the bleeder.
If there was any possibiility that pushing in the pistons back in would damage anything, the workshop manuals wouldnt say to do it that way.

 

The master cylinder piston seals are designed to move backwards and forwards....

 

The ports in the M/C are open to the reservoir until the brake pedal is depressed anyway.

It won't hurt anything to crack the bleeder nipple and there is an argument that says you should bleed the brakes after a pad change anyway. That avoids the possible consequence of any air being drawn past the piston seal as it moves back inside the calliper, but it isn't essential to bleed.

I would be more concerned with damage to the brake hose by crushing it with a clamp than anything else, and if the bleeder nipple is open, the fluid is not going anywhere other than out of the bleeder nipple.

 

Just use the g clamp iv done it heaps of times , even work shops do it that way !!! But when I changed my rotors the back was fine (check ya hand brake set up when the backs off to )few small hits with a sand filled mallet did it easy but the front I had to flog the crap out of them and I mean really flog it to get them off and for every one on hear no they did not wedge as soon as I cracked the seal to hub I wiggled and giggled and they come off but to crake that seal was hard !!!!