VS Calais Series 2 probs

[showtime]

Hi there, Just purchased a vs calais series 2 5.0ltr, when I test drove it everything seemed fine.
Out of respect for owner and not yet paying for the car I didn't get a chance to open it right up.
Now that I have had a good drive of it, I have realised that its not shifting gears properly, holding gears to long and not kicking down a gear when accelerator is applied.
The other thing I have noticed is that it is not revving cleanly all the way through at 3/4 to full throttle.
Seems to die at around 3500rpm.
Things i can tell you about the car, Its a vt motor as the original motor snapped the nose off the crank with harmonic balancer. It hasn't been driven for quite some time. Everything else on the car is immaculate.
Where should I start, No engine light is comming on at all?

 

[showtime]

Gunna try the fault codes see if anything comes back, Still any help appriciated

 

[jesse_lankey]

it could be your throttle position sensor, my mates vt had similar symptoms and it turned out it was the TPS, also I'm not sure if a VT TPS will work correctly with the VS ecu, but dont quote me on that.

 

[showtime]

thats what i was thinking. if its a vt tps with a vs computer, it may not be getting the right signal.
I'm goin to replace the tps, Is there a guide on how to set up the tps on a vs?
Or is it just strait bolt on and away you go?

 

[FstStig]

The ECU has nothing to do with the model of car, more the motor, so if its a 5.0L V8 Which would be the 304 then the 304 ECU would be in the car not a 3.8L Ecotec ECU. I would probably be giving the throttle body a clean first, as well as checking for any faults that may of been lodged.

 

[showtime]

Ok I ran the paper clip diagnostic tool today, Here are the fault codes I got.
12: System Pass
19: Throttle Position sensor (stuck open)
31: Theft Deterent Signal Missing
56: Running Lean Under Load
I removed the throttle position sensor to see if it was jammed but it was springing back fine.
I ordered a new TPS, be here in the morning.
Is this likely to be related to the 56 Fault code? If not What is likely to be the coarse of fault code 56?

 

[VrWagz1]

Possibly. Dont forget to clear the codes after you put the sensor in, go for a run then check them again to see if its fixed and codes are still clear.

 

[showtime]

Ok I replaced the tps this morning. took it for a drive and is changing alot better, was even dropping back gears. I then cleared the codes and ran it again and got no codes registered.
Since driving it home it it still not dropping back from Overdrive to 3rd or second when I accelerate. I checked codes again and it has registered Code 19 again.
Where else can I look?

 

[Brett_jjj]

Its gotta be either that the new TPS is faulty,or maybe the TPS wiring that runs back to the ECU has a bad or corroded connection.Id check the wiring from the TPS all the way back to the ECU connectors.Check it all with a multimeter.The TPS has a Black/yellow wire,a Blue wire,and a Grey wire running from the TPS back to the ECU.The same Black/yellow wire also connects to the ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor.
The ECU connector pins these wires connect to are ECU conenctor pin numbers-
A7 =Grey wire,
B11 = Blue wire,
E16 = Black/yellow wire.
The ECU connector pin numbers are stamped into the connectors on the ECU.
Pin number A7=Middle pink ECU connector.
Pin number B11=Middle pink ECU connector.
Pin number E16=Blue ECU connector.
Id check all these connector contacts for corrosion or looseness,if you find theres no problem with the TPS,its wiring etc,then Id try another ECU as they can be faulty,but its very rare.

 

[VrWagz1]

(Im gonna make this up out of my head but it should work) The TPS im sure is just a potentiometer. you should have 5v on the Black/Yellow because it sounds like a Vcc feed cause it hs a common supply from the ECT. This means between the grey and blue wire you should have a 0v and the other an analouge variable voltage 0-5v as the tps is turned. Try stabbing these 2 wires and seeing if it varies as you turn the TPS. Depending on the setup it will either be 0 and rise to 5v as turned, OR 5v and lower to 0v. It also may never hit 0v as the ecu might see the 1 v as a sig health voltage aslo. Give it a try and see what sort of results you get. It will be an interesting exercise so you can see it working, should be fun.