VS COILS AND IGNITION CONTROL MODULE

[family fix it man]

HI, guys.
VS V6 3.8L WAGON
I start this thread because I was almost at my wits end trying to find my misfire lack of power problem.
So I have good new plugs and plug leads.
I've been testing my coils with the old (remove the plug lead and see the spark jump down the side method.)
Had tested up to 9, yes (NINE !) coils, with various results:- Bright spark one side weak the other, bright spark both sides, to almost no spark on some coils.
Tested the resistance on the bench all around the 5.8 mark, should be OK.
I had bought a second hand ICM (BASE PLATE to me), some months ago that fixed the problem at the time, then it returned.

Found this simple test, that I did not find anyone talking about on here, in the back of the workshop manual.
1. Remove the coils
2. Connect a test lamp between a pair of the primary terminals protruding from the top of the Ignition Control Module (BASE PLATE), and check that the test lamp flashes when the starter motor is operated.
3. Repeat on the remaining Module terminals.
If the test lamp does not flash at each of the terminals, renew the Ignition Control Module (BASE PLATE)

I did this test and found the last pair had NO light.
Put the old Ignition Control Module back on, did the test and all lit up.
Put the coils back on and WOW full power again, no misfire!

I recommend that anyone who is having Coil problems do this test before going out to buy new Coils.

OK so here's my question, does anyone know if these Ignition Control Modules break down under load or heat conditions?

The one sitting on my shelf seemed to be faulty at the time, but now tests fine!
As I have only just put it in and gone for a short blast, I'm not sure how it is going to last in every day driving, like under load/heat conditions.
Anyone who has had to replace one of these will know they cost over the $200 mark.
Any help would be great, Thanks.

 

[Immortality]

I'm not sure about the ignition modules but the coils might test ok but fail under load. A simple resistance test doesn't really tell the full story.

With ignition stuff it's not really worth ******* about with old ****. Best to buy genuine parts which can be found for reasonable prices on ebay. Genuine coils and DFI modules work best period.

 

[VS_Pete]

Genuine coils and DFI modules work best period.

When mine needed replacement Genuine that is all.

 

[family fix it man]

Thanks, genuine is always recommend as the best, slight misfire returned under load, (still running much better). 3 genuine coils and module as soon as I can afford them.

 

[family fix it man]

Just a correction, the DFI module listed on Ebay for between $75~$335.

 

[Swan Ignition Coils]

OK so here's my question, does anyone know if these Ignition Control Modules break down under load or heat conditions?

The one sitting on my shelf seemed to be faulty at the time, but now tests fine!
As I have only just put it in and gone for a short blast, I'm not sure how it is going to last in every day driving, like under load/heat conditions.
Anyone who has had to replace one of these will know they cost over the $200 mark.
Any help would be great, Thanks.View attachment 190455

Just a correction, the DFI module listed on Ebay for between $75~$335.

I do realise I'm responding to a few months old post, but I would like to comment on a few points.

1) Looking at the image attached, it seems as though there has not been any silicone applied to the steel plate between module and last two coils, this silicon (supplied with module) helps to disburse heat generated by the coils, it's a protection barrier. That could cause the module to overheat and fail.

2) Regarding the price of the delphi module. As a distributor of the module, there is an Australian shortage, Delphi Australia can not supply the module for the next 2 months, so this will increase the selling price as the the module becomes scarce.

3) Aftermarket coils are just as reliable to use for the VS V6 3.8L Commodore, well I can only comment on the Swan Coils I stock as they are made by an OEM manufacturer, I have mentioned this point in another post.