VS front brakes

[Pollushon]

I imagine they're original. I can't recommend rebuilding calipers enough. Fresh piston o-rings with all build-up in the corners gone, new pins, grease and seals make for a huge improvement after 22 years.

 

[losh1971]

Take caliper off, slide caliper apart, (dont damage the slide pin boots they just pop on) clean pin and it's bore, grease with rubber grease, put back together.
Plenty of vids on youtube to show you how.

I've always used slide grease on slide pins as it rated at a much higher melting point. I normally put a thin film of rubber grease on the piston or seals to help them push in easier with my fingers. You don't need a bleeder kit afstruct to flush the fluid. I normally suringe the old fluid out, fill it with fresh, crack the rear nipples and let it run through on its own. I have spead up the process by pumping the pedal with one nipple cracked at a time to get the new fluid down the lines. Then follow up with a gravity bleed to clear the air. Takes a long time on the rears about 30 mins to run the old fluid out and remove all the air on the rears. Fronts take 5mins each and easy to do with gravity.

 

[losh1971]

Sounds like maybe you don't do a lot of your own work on the Maloo Afstruct? Here i am saying you should do this and that but i just thought maybe you prefer to take it in? I sometimes pay for work to be done, because at times its not worth getting my hands dirty. And sometimes the job is too big for me to take on because i don't want to crack the shts half way through because its the first time i do something and it doesn't work out as easy as i expected. Plus i rarely have a helper which on some jobs that extra set of hands is 100% needed.

 

[vc commodore]

Seeing as you want to do a brake upgrade, personally I'd sink the money into the brake upgrade, rather than spend the money doing the brakes you intend on getting rid of.

May not be the answer to your initial question, but it'd be the better option, considering the toys you possess

 

[afstruct]

No worries ,thanks.
Yeah I can pretty much guarantee they're original, untouched , as I haven't touched them and I bought it in 2012 with 85k on it.
Looks like monaro's on daily for a little longer . Not really shore why I'm worried about that as unless everything goes extremely pear shaped , hope and can see me keeping it until I can't drive ,so the difference in kms shouldn't really worry me.

Seeing as you want to do a brake upgrade, personally I'd sink the money into the brake upgrade, rather than spend the money doing the brakes you intend on getting rid of.

May not be the answer to your initial question, but it'd be the better option, considering the toys you possess

Agree and that's also the rub to upgrade as far as I understand with ve brake upgrade need to run 17s and those need repairing and 4 new tyres ( all takes time and money) and while I have a few vechices, maloo was always bought and accepted as the daily, which this last year it's struggled to be.
The answer is probably as I've already got and paid for pads is throw them in , change fluid, use it and savefor brakes and sort wheels.

Sounds like maybe you don't do a lot of your own work on the Maloo Afstruct? Here i am saying you should do this and that but i just thought maybe you prefer to take it in? I sometimes pay for work to be done, because at times its not worth getting my hands dirty. And sometimes the job is too big for me to take on because i don't want to crack the shts half way through because its the first time i do something and it doesn't work out as easy as i expected. Plus i rarely have a helper which on some jobs that extra set of hands is 100% needed.

I don't know, maybe it sounds like I don't do a lot of the work ( certainly do alot more work myself than most , not as much as some ).

 

[Pollushon]

The VE upgrade is great but a good middle ground if you want to reduce cost/time is the VT master cylinder upgrade. Amazing how much more squeeze you can apply with a bigger hammer.

 

[vs-lover]

Take caliper off, slide caliper apart, (dont damage the slide pin boots they just pop on) clean pin and it's bore, grease with rubber grease, put back together.

Rubber grease is NOT the correct grease for use on caliper slides as it is not capable of handling the high temperatures that it is subjected to.

Bendix make the correct blue "Ceramic High Temperature Synthetic Lube" for the job and buying a bottle of it will last you years of many caliper rebuilds. It's a must if you want the slides to function correctly for years and not just a week or so as will be the case using regular grease.

 

[PlenumBiscuit]

why spend bucket loads upgrading brakes

u get in car, u push brake pedal, and whammo!... brakes work!

spending buckets load to have this same result occur? why? are we gonna look cooler at the traffic lights if our calipers are painted red?

its throwing money away

personally, just get a different caliper from the wrecker or upullit, then wait till repco bring out a pads & rotors deal for $99, then all is well again.

then spend the the $300 you didnt spend on upgrading brakes on a weekend away with the missus in a motel with a hot spa. lol

 

[losh1971]

I personally wouldn't use Silverline pads when there are far better ones out there for under $80. HPX are way better and with decent rotor will be better than Silverline pads and Repco rotors any day. To me it's not about pulling up in traffic on an average day; it's about slamming on your brakes because the car in front of you did and you don't want to rear end them. There appears to be evidence that suggests a rotor made from higher qual steel works better than a cheap rotor, same goes with pads.

 

[woteva]

Will these give me more stopping power?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4X-Brembo-...TE-VU-VY-VZ-VE-VECTRA-BR-/273311623553?_ul=AU