VS L67 Ute Project

[peteinoz]

So I just bought a very tidy 98 VS L67 ute

As it turns out my 17 year old daughter is extremely keen to go drag racing.. Bonus!!

I did my time as an apprentice mechanic and did 2 years after that, but haven't really touched the spanners much since then, erhm 3 decades ago.

So this will be fun, lots to remember and learn.

this is the parts list, main reason I bought it.



The l67 engine has
1.9.1 high ratio roller rockers.
Hsv xu6 enhanced l67 chip
85mm pullie
Reco snout
New charger oil
Low compression pistons
New 82 degree thermostat
New temp sensors
New altonator
New vacuum lines
New plugs gaped at .9mm
New high performance coil packs
New msd high performance leads
New radiator hoses
New coolent
New heater tap valve
New homoinick balancer
New exhaust manifold gaskets
GSS 342 walbro high flow fuel pump
New speed sensor
New crank angle sensor
New o2 sensors
New neutral sensor
Hi Teck extractors into a Custom made 2 1/2' exhaut with high flow cat into twin 3" tip sounds really tough
New pod filter
New shifter cable
B&m shifter set up over $450
New Saas racing seats (mod plated)
adjustable panhard rod
Super low king springs
Super low monro shocks
Super low struts
New bushers
New tie rod ends
New brake pads
Strut brace
rubber mat in the tub made of tires looks really nice
Led Parker's
New clear tail lights
New clear custom blinkers
Boost & vacuum gauge
New fire extinguisher
Custom red & black interior
New pioneer head deck Bluetooth etc
New 2 500watt 6" by 9" speakers in a custom built boxes behind the drivers and passenger's head
Drift steering wheel
New crash pad
Custom roof lining black with the Holden lion done in red
Custom red n black door cards
Mod plated




Down the highway it's under 2k revs sitting on 100k's so I'm guessing it's got a 3.08 open diff in it.

One thing you don't see here, is currently, the passenger footwell is completely filled with this massive speaker.

If you don't know, behind the cab in the ute, front part of the tray has a removable section.
If you take that off, you'll see the petrol tank behind the drivers and a big open space behind the passenger seat
which also has large vents into the cab.

Some genius makes these, that fit a 12 inch sub in them.

So that was the first order, from Ebay

LOL to get rid of that massive thing in the passenger well.


My daughter has spent 2 solid days cleaning and detailing it.

Oh and thanks to @
Phillbert


I ordered this little gem from ebay also

First test.

Leave it exactly as it is and see what times my daughter and I can pull out of it.

I'm not expecting that much, maybe in the 15's possible high 14's?

Then the idea is to do 1 improvement each time between races

First thing is to get it to hook up, since I'll be using it a little bit to drive around, probably go the 3.7 ratio instead of the 4.11
most likely just get what the best deal is, with a minispool most likely.

then see the difference.

Then slicks.

You guys would know better than me.. I've got 15 rims to put the slicks on.. would 255's be the widest you can go on one of these?


Well that's my start of the tread, I'll be updating it as we add new things to it.

So I've got a complete record of it from scratch etc.

We are going to name it and put this car on Instagram as another record etc.

All and any advice appreciated along the way, it's been a while



Cheers
Pete

 

[peteinoz]

Wish list over time.

Once it's hooking up.

a stall converter.

Once that's done. the guy I bought it off, recommended

E85 fuel
New injectors to suit.
Combined with a new pully to give it a bit more boost
Then a Tune to suit the above.

What I really want to learn is how to connect my laptop and start tuning it myself. I've been in tech the last couple of decades, so that shouldn't be too hard to figure out I guess.

Any advice connecting my laptop to the VS computer

 

[losh1971]

You modify the stock PCM to do live tuning.

 

[Immortality]

Nice.

That is a very interesting pulley.

For starters, I would pull the plugs and re-gap them to at least 1.3mm and I'd maybe try 1.4mm too, if you have decent coils it won't drop spark. (factory spec is 1.3mm and from my experience it should be fine at this pulley size with decent quality coils/leads) I would consider going 1 step colder spark plug too.

As for tuning, your best bet is to visit the PCM hacking forum, they have all the gear to tune these things in real time for a fraction of the cost of fitting something like a Haltech ecu. The Boys at the PCM hacking forum can supply the correct cable, a NVram module (to replace the factory memcal) and the software used is all free/shareware etc. Use Enhanced code from The1 and you are away laughing.

I would also highly recommend fitting a MAT sensor in the LIM instead of an IAT sensor after the POD filter, with supercharging you really need to tune to the air temps after the blower. Once you learn how to log and tune you will be what it likes and where you can add timing as well as set up the ignition Vs IAT table so it automatically pulls or adds timing based on actual temp in the intake to keep it safe etc.

I'll be keeping in eye on this with interest

edit: you will also need a wideband O2 sensor. You can either get it of someone on the forum or from one of the big suppliers. Most of the guys on the forum use the 14point7 WB sensors. One of the guys on the PCM hacking forum sells starter kits which should have everything you need to get going including WB O2.

 

[losh1971]

I'll be honest and say I don't love the interior. But I do like what's under the bonnet, and it should go alright. I didn't see any upgrades to the trans. If you plan on spending coin on a stally it would be worth upgrading the trans internals, if you can afford it. Just that if the internals fail, you can damage the new stally.
Some say to shift kit, but talking to my trans builder he recommends strengthening up the trans before doing so. According to him, the shift enhancement kit can jam the trans into gear a bit hard for the old internals and place them at risk.
I'm considering getting my trans overhauled next year, depending on finances and no major issues on the ute that cost me a lot of coin. Trans rebuild and strengthen will be around $2k removed and fitted, $300 is the remove and refit cost.

 

[StrokedLyfe]

Nice and tidy mate.. love the colour too... would love to pick up a vr/vs ute with 5L in it.. sadly thats dream is slowly slipping away...

 

[losh1971]

Shame a PO butchered the AC, it's dash out now to repair that if you ever want to put it back on.

 

[Immortality]

Race car....

the singe 2.5" exhaust will choke it too

 

[Phillbert]

Well done picking it up, nice ride m8.
Holy **** Batman look at the parts list of replacements lol.

I fully agree and understand when you say, run it get times, do something see what it does next... im the same thinking there, bit of a game

For your Daughter Willowbank Raceway has Test n Tune days/nights, starting again early next year.

 

[peteinoz]

Nice.

That is a very interesting pulley.

For starters, I would pull the plugs and re-gap them to at least 1.3mm and I'd maybe try 1.4mm too, if you have decent coils it won't drop spark. (factory spec is 1.3mm and from my experience it should be fine at this pulley size with decent quality coils/leads) I would consider going 1 step colder spark plug too.

As for tuning, your best bet is to visit the PCM hacking forum, they have all the gear to tune these things in real time for a fraction of the cost of fitting something like a Haltech ecu. The Boys at the PCM hacking forum can supply the correct cable, a NVram module (to replace the factory memcal) and the software used is all free/shareware etc. Use Enhanced code from The1 and you are away laughing.

I would also highly recommend fitting a MAT sensor in the LIM instead of an IAT sensor after the POD filter, with supercharging you really need to tune to the air temps after the blower. Once you learn how to log and tune you will be what it likes and where you can add timing as well as set up the ignition Vs IAT table so it automatically pulls or adds timing based on actual temp in the intake to keep it safe etc.

I'll be keeping in eye on this with interest

edit: you will also need a wideband O2 sensor. You can either get it of someone on the forum or from one of the big suppliers. Most of the guys on the forum use the 14point7 WB sensors. One of the guys on the PCM hacking forum sells starter kits which should have everything you need to get going including WB O2.

Knew I came to the right place, thanks for all that info mate. Much appreciated.

This single post gives me a ton of work to do, I'll do the plugs first over the next couple of days, then check out that forum.
I'll have to google 1/2 of these acronyms. It's been 3 decades since I've looked under the bonnet seriously etc. But I'll figure it out.

e.g. Nvram
memcal
WB Senors