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VS L67 Ute Project

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harrop.senator

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I've not seen many stock 5l's I mean dead stock pull over 180 rwhp so that's definitely a mean gain. I've known people with 355's that have pulled that on a low rise with a 276 cam.

Holding over 200 rwhp for 100kms an hour is the flat average hp that makes these pull.
 

peteinoz

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I've not seen many stock 5l's I mean dead stock pull over 180 rwhp so that's definitely a mean gain. I've known people with 355's that have pulled that on a low rise with a 276 cam.

Holding over 200 rwhp for 100kms an hour is the flat average hp that makes these pull.

is a 355 a stroked 5L ? (+cam) pulling similar numbers to mine? is that what you mean?
 

losh1971

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I'd be cautious about shift kitting that old trans in its current state. By all means do it but you are pushing HP figures that are really needing some replacement of the weak components in a stock 4l60e. Shift kitting an old trans can be detrimental. Personally I'd be adding a rebuild to the list and getting it strengthened for say 250-300rwkw, so you have room future proofing, with HD 3500 stally.
 

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I reckon my 304 vp ute with all bolt ons etc roughly 200rwhp & high 13's....complete stockers made way less good manual driver anywhere in 14's & auto cars usually low 15's.

With extra torque down low,set up correctly with right parts on those drag slicks mid 13's or better in lightweight if all goes well...kind of think 12's be possible if set it up 100% for drags.

Good thing is those slicks will work great on manual turbo ute perfectly
 

peteinoz

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I'd be cautious about shift kitting that old trans in its current state. By all means do it but you are pushing HP figures that are really needing some replacement of the weak components in a stock 4l60e. Shift kitting an old trans can be detrimental. Personally I'd be adding a rebuild to the list and getting it strengthened for say 250-300rwkw, so you have room future proofing, with HD 3500 stally.

yeah I hear ya,
I got a quote, drive in drive out, 3500 stally, rebuilt box shift kitted. $3500.

Or I can buy another 4l60e for 1 or 2 hundred when this one breaks..

that's a lot of money for 35 hundred for a new auto, or I can get double row timing chain, new valve springs and great camshaft, for the same price,

But that will help the auto live less longer LOL

I'll just see how it goes at willowbank and decide from there.
 

peteinoz

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here's the video I put together for the channel.

 

losh1971

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yeah I hear ya,
I got a quote, drive in drive out, 3500 stally, rebuilt box shift kitted. $3500.

Or I can buy another 4l60e for 1 or 2 hundred when this one breaks..

that's a lot of money for 35 hundred for a new auto, or I can get double row timing chain, new valve springs and great camshaft, for the same price,

But that will help the auto live less longer LOL

I'll just see how it goes at willowbank and decide from there.

That's a pretty good price. I was quoted $3500 for a fairly strong, kitted 4L60e, plus another $300 to remove and fit. I had a stally but not furnace brazed, but the one down and that was bit over $600, I think. Think the HD one was around $900 IIRC.

Did the bloke quoting $3500 say he was upgrading the weak components in the trans for that price?
 

peteinoz

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Did the bloke quoting $3500 say he was upgrading the weak components in the trans for that price?

To be honest I can't remember, it's a auto place here on the gold coast who build race autos as I remember. I spoke to him on the phone, so don't have a record of what we talked about, but he sounded extremely legit.
 

losh1971

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Did the bloke quoting $3500 say he was upgrading the weak components in the trans for that price?

To be honest I can't remember, it's a auto place here on the gold coast who build race autos as I remember. I spoke to him on the phone, so don't have a record of what we talked about, but he sounded extremely legit.
I'm going by Tassie prices, which could be more than Qld prices. If it's a strongly built 4L60 that seems like a really good price, especially with HD stally alone being around $900.
 
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