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VS Series III Ute, Cruse Control and Remote entery??

v1l3

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Hey everyone Merry Christmas hope you are all having a wonderful time.
Was wondering if anyone could help me out on a few issues Im having with the old girl,
First is Remote key less entry,
Key just wont function although the central locking will work via the key being used in the door, Ive read around a bit and have pulled the door apart and tested the wiring to the actuator in the door itself seems brown red locks and brown yellow unlocks and everything ells is fine so Im pretty much leaning on the door mech being faulty, Ive also tests the toggle switch that sits on the door lock and it seems to be ok as well, are there any other areas I can check maybe Ive skipped over something tinny. The key it self is not that old maybe 2 years since it was replaced.
Or is there a separate unit that controls wireless entry?

And the second thing is cruse control,
Everything pretty self explanetry and plug and play in the vs all the existing loom wiring is already in place and there seems to be a mounting point on the brake pedel for the disengadge switch but what about the clutch? Is there suppose to be one here as well, and the unit Ive got atm is stamped PF 25140078 D, Im assuming its out of an latter model commodore but Im still unsure on this Ive located the plug for the unit and its wired out the same as the cut of loom attached, but the unit seems a different size to other units that ive seen but they all seem similar and looks like they just mount to a fabricated bracket easy enough.

If anyone has any ideas for me Id appreciate it, if not well Ill work it out eventually :p

Cheers guys
And Merry Christmas
 

monarols71

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If you can unlock the doors, then you put the key in the ignition and it starts and runs, your key battery is flat.
VS did not have cruise in a manual. You can either use a cheap $2 ish house alarm tamper switch pushed in (from the fire wall side) and glued with sikaflex, araldite etc, as it works as a N/O switch like the original and wired in with the brake pedal switch, or do what I did (or get someone to) machine an adapter to take the 1/2" unf original cruise switch. That way I can also use the other half (N/O) part of the switch, as the clutch needs to be pushed in to start the car.
Can't help with numbers though.
 

hako

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Re keyless entry - I thought later series utes only had central locking, not keyless but I am possibly wrong. I thought the BCM only supports CC as it's a low series. (maybe I'm confusing it with power windows!)
Re cruise - if you have the V6 you must get the cruise module (motor that connects to throttle body) from a VS with a V6....otherwise the cable will not fit and the mounting point is different. If you are using the proper module it will bolt in after you drill 1 hole...the other hole is there. There will be a spot for the disengage switch on the clutch housing...not sure exactly where but it will be there.
 

v1l3

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It depended on what factory options you wanted, my utes the series III SS manual so its the same as the VT series 1 before they dumped the gen3 in for series 2 etc
 

v1l3

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If you can unlock the doors, then you put the key in the ignition and it starts and runs, your key battery is flat.
VS did not have cruise in a manual. You can either use a cheap $2 ish house alarm tamper switch pushed in (from the fire wall side) and glued with sikaflex, araldite etc, as it works as a N/O switch like the original and wired in with the brake pedal switch, or do what I did (or get someone to) machine an adapter to take the 1/2" unf original cruise switch. That way I can also use the other half (N/O) part of the switch, as the clutch needs to be pushed in to start the car.
Can't help with numbers though.
Mmm will go and get the batt changed in the key just means ill have to that the vz and it hates speed bumps :( but its hasn't been that long since it was last done but well better to cross out all the small variables
 

tezza

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For your keyless entry you can try replacing the battery in the key (which will require you to break open the keyhead casing - there is a write up in the how-to section). Do you have a spare key which you can test it with? Also, if you press the unlock button, does the red flashing light turn off?

For cruise, Im trying to determine if there were any factory manual's with cruise added so I can then order the part from Holden to get it looking factory, or else I will need to fabricate something up to mount the clutch switch.
 

v1l3

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Yeah I'm looking into it, I just find it strange that there is no switch for the clutch seeming the unit my mate got from me came out of a manual v8 vs so I'm told.
Ive got 3 keys for my ute looks like removing the bat some how resets the code stored in the key, I did how ever pull apart the worst of the 3. I'm trying to find out if there is a relay box of some sort that controls this apparently there is a sensor in the door handle so the owner manual says, however the only thing I have located is the switch module that looks like its activated when the handle in the door itself is lifted.
My mates convinced that the signal is picked up by the actuator in the drivers door but Ive pulled this unit apart and cant see anything inferred based which is what I'm assuming these keys use for the signal pulse. apart from hard wiring my test light into the loom and seeing if it pulses when the key is used but I will try this after I get my key back from the battery being replaced and post what Ive found.
Seems like a lot of people have had this issue but there has been no clear end to how they resolved it.
 

tezza

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So none of the keys work when the unlock button is pressed? Are they two button keyheads or single button?
The microswitch on the drivers door barrel is for the deadlocking, so when the car is dead locked (key slot in hortizonal position) you cannot unlock the door with the remote.

Not having studied the wiring, it might be a fault in the BCM. Do you have a Low BCM or a Ute BCM?

To test the wiring and the remote, just put your test light in the plug at the door actuator and test it there, and work your way back until you get to the BCM. You can also test the wiring plug where the door loom connects in just where the kick panel is.
 

tezza

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You can also try disconnecting the microswitch on the door handle as this could be playing up and preventing the remotes to work.
 

v1l3

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Well the key bat turned out to be fine, just got some software for my obd2 tool so when I get that working i should be able to see what codes are coming up but ive got a feeling that the 5ltr vs series III and vt series 1 dont use the obd2 code hmmm..
 
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