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VS slips in overdrive only when hot and under load

VPbomb

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Car: 97 VS Ute Serries 2 193,000kms- Column shift auto
Issue: See below for details, but car slips under load when hot in overdrive only
Transmission serviced about 3,000 km ago when diff was rebuilt.

I know there have been a few slipping trans threads, but couldn't find the exact symptoms to mine.
I was towing a large fridge on the freeway so the revs where a little high than normal (about 2.5K). The car would slowly increase the RPM before it would start to rev out. This has happened once before, but pulling over/turning the car off and on has previously fixed it (mind you my other issue is car wont crank over when it's warmed up, so battery goes flat trying - not fun on the side of a freeway 2.5 hours from Melb with no prick pulling up to give me a jumpstart!)
The whole way home it seems that once under load like going up a hill sitting around 2.5K, same issue would happen. Sometimes backing right off to lower the revs then increase it would behave for a little.
Seems that when I left it in 3rd gear sitting on 3K, it drove normally (except I sat on 90-95 in a 110), and putting in overdrive downhills worked.

As this only happens in overdrive, is it the trans starting to go or possible stall converter issue?
I checked codes last time this happened and nothing, but will try and check tonight. Also haven't checked colour of fluid.

Thanks in advance.
 

Clint_G

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how heavy is the fridge. been told by a few transmition places to never have the car in over drive when towing or carrying heavy loads
 

Brett_jjj

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Have you serviced the transmission at all lately?Theres a filter in there that needs replacing periodically.Its not that hard to replace it yourself,if you can change the engine oil and filter,you can change the transmission filter.You just need a transmission filter kit to suit your model and 5 litres of dexron 111(3) auto trans fluid.The filter kit is around $25 and the fluid is around the same price,both are available at most auto outlets etc.The filter kit includes a new pan gasket,the filter obviously,and a new filter seal.Most times though once an auto transmission starts to slip like you have described,its usually on its way out unless its something simple like low fluid or blocked filter etc.
 

VPbomb

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Clint_G: Really, never knew this. I regularly have my 1000cc track bike in the back with all the gear (actually last Fridat before this happened I drove a few hours to phillip island) which weighs more, but think the size meant poorer airodynamics as it had to remain up right, hence why it was straining that 400rpm more.

Brett_jjj: The trans got serviced about 4 months ago and has since done about 3,000km. I assumed that they changed the filter as it was done at Preston auto & diffs, so hate to think they only change fluid. I'll check the colour of the fluid tonight and see if it's worth changing again with a new filter. Have done this on other commodores with no drain plug and it's a pain.

Cheers
 

Brett_jjj

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Yeah,if its been serviced recently then its probably on its way out and will more than likely just get worse..Id get hold of a good second hand auto and fit that,you can pick up good ones fairly cheap.Otherwise its around $2000 for a fully reconditioned auto transmission for these cars..
 

Bizmark

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Or you could do a manual conversion if that tickles your fancy

Cheapest and easiest option is to find a good 2nd hand auto, relatively simple swap.

As for the car not cranking over when its warmed up, does it also die while driving? A possible culprit is the crank angle sensor (if the ecotecs have one). Pouring cold water on them gets them going again for a little while.
 

FstStig

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I was towing a large fridge on the freeway
Sure hope it was in a trailer and there was no beer in it, be a good way to get out of speeding fine though if cops pull you over, just jump out and open up the fridge offer them a few coldies lol.
 

VPbomb

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Yeah,if its been serviced recently then its probably on its way out and will more than likely just get worse..Id get hold of a good second hand auto and fit that,you can pick up good ones fairly cheap.Otherwise its around $2000 for a fully reconditioned auto transmission for these cars..
Damn, don't say that! Well, it's starting to look like a trans then.

Or you could do a manual conversion if that tickles your fancy

Cheapest and easiest option is to find a good 2nd hand auto, relatively simple swap.

As for the car not cranking over when its warmed up, does it also die while driving? A possible culprit is the crank angle sensor (if the ecotecs have one). Pouring cold water on them gets them going again for a little while.
Happy with the auto for now. Might source a 2nd hand auto, but you sure a column shift auto is the same as a normal auto? I heard the selector is on the other side or some shyt, in which a few people scared me off doing the t-bar conversion so I could get a centre console and make shifting gears easier.
Funny about that actually, I had the CAS replaced only last week as I thought it would fix this exact issue (as it happened only once before, so just took the pre-caution and replaced with a new one)! They also said the balancer or what ever looked good when they replaced the sensor. They car has only died once when going around a corner, but I replaced the sensor after that.
 

VPbomb

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Sure hope it was in a trailer and there was no beer in it, be a good way to get out of speeding fine though if cops pull you over, just jump out and open up the fridge offer them a few coldies lol.
Nah, fidge was on the tray in the ute... and unfortunately no cold ones which I would have downed while waiting on the side of the freeway!
Oh and if any of you reading this drove past a white ute on the site of the freeway near Bendigo Sunday morning/midday with a fidge on it and jumper leads hanging off the side (or me standing there holding them looking helpless)... damn you for not stopping!
 

VPbomb

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Just checked error codes, and it returned: Code 76 - Air/Fuel ratio variation between left and right banks
Also, the Trans fluid looks a little brown and has a slight burnt smell to it. I may have even seen a small patch of this oil by the side of the road where I first turned my car off when it was revving out but assumed it was another random issue and motor had a slight leak. Not sure what all this means though.
 
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