Grab yourself a Gregory's manual. Very detailed and should make it reasonably straight forward if you're competent on the tools. That cam is not that big, so I don't think it would warrant a double row timing chain if you wanted to spare the expense as it should be fine with the stock 90lb spring seat pressure. The balance shaft must also be disabled or removed with a double roller. A new single row chain would be very wise though. Just make sure that cam actually suits the ecotec as it says its to suit a hydraulic flat tappet lifter, which the ecotec isn't, they're a hydraulic roller lifter.
Because its only small, it should run 'ok' on the stock tune, but of course would perform best with a tune to suit.
Easiest to change with the motor out of the car as the cam feeds in from the front. I've not done it this way, but you could also probably do it in the car if you removed everything infront of the motor, i.e. front bar, fan, radiator and ac condensor (yes this means you lose your ac gas).
Briefly though, you'd need to remove plenum, inlet manifold, alternator, heater pipes, rocker covers, rockers and pushrods, lifters, harmonic balancer, timing cover, timing chain and tensioner. Thats the bulk of it off the top of my head. Bear in mind too that with the stock timing chain and keyways with an aftermarket cam there is no ability to advance or retard the timing to dial it in and therefore by just installing it 'dot to dot' you're relying on the cam to be ground 100% where it should (which they're often not).
Personally though i'd go a little bigger than that cam for the effort involved. Keep in mind though a bigger cam requires more supporting mods if you want it to last and perform its best.
Hope that gives you a start.
Cheers