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Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by markovr, Jan 10, 2005.
I will defintely check mine then, rather be safe then sorry. great info on all this
In reference to alternator problems
I had the same prob with alternater wire that had worn through due to rubbing. One day my gear box suddenly would go into a state of maddness and change really heavily and sometimes hold gears etc. Took it to holden(big mistake!!!i know) they told me to replace gear box. Well anger set in and a couple of days later with a coffe and smoke i took my time and looked over the car propely and found this worn wire was arc-ing onto my block. 10 winds of inso tape and problem solved that was 5 years ago. It's worth a good look yourself at things before holden get there mits on it.
Auto elec changed my wire over whilst doing another job. Good man knew about this potential problem...Dave
Had the exact same issue on Xmas Eve(at local shopping centre carpark). It took 5 days to rectify, as the holiday season saw everything closed, so no access to parts etc. Horrendously poor design and fitment IMHO.
As an aside, since fixing this problem the Airbag light on the dash is now illuminated whenever the car is being driven. Is this a common fault also(and if so, what is the solution)???
Do a check
If it reads code 12 which means everything is ok
You have to get it reset with the Tech 2
i had the same problem heading up to townsville about 2am in the morning middle of nowhere the car lost power , i pulled over and the car started to rev on it's own so it didnt stall, so before it over heated i stopped the car and yeah the lead behind the altinator, so fixed it, but obviously my battery was flat , so i had to flag down someone and jump me, luckely i got the nexted car to pass to pull over, at night in the middle of nowere is not very nice, so my advice aswell always check them before a trip and always carrt a self jump starter pack
Just had the same problem with my vs v6.
A few days ago I was driving with the aircon on and stereo and the stereo started dying and the air con to, the car then started going like a pig and not shifting gears.
Put another battery, was good for 2 days then same thing.
Checked the battery with a multi meter the alternator wasnt charging, checked the red wire going to the alternator and the nut holding on was loose.
Undid the nut and took off the washers etc and the eye terminal fell off.
The cable and insulation is burnt and the grey plastic insulator between the terminal and the alternator housing just crumbled to pieces.
Changed the terminal and made up an insulator from bake lite, seems ok now and is charging the battery at 14.3 volts.
I think I will have to replace the whole wire with a heavier gauge and better terminals.
Any idea where I can get a new insulator ?
Not very impressed considering this is such a common problem.
I feel ripped off. My VS did this with only 120k on the clock! That said it took 5 minutes to figure out what went wrong, bugger took the alternator with it though.
WOW thanks for the info, I will go and have a look too. I was just about to post about the same issue.
this has happened to me twice in the last week, prior to that the alternator died so I got another one and since then the stalling has been happening. its like it runs out of petrol, chug chug then pfft dead! I have been lucky (or its a dif prob) but after waiting 15 mins or so it will re start. I was told by the lovely young men that helped push me from the middle of the intersection that if the leads are starting to break down this will happen also. I know was told the coil will probably need replacing when I bought the car.
The clunking will most likely be your sway bar link pushing its way through the mounting point on the stut. This is common and what happens is that the quality of metal used on both the metal washers and the sway bar link (stablink) are rather poor and over time the stablink pushes its way through the washer allowing the stablink to move up and down through the mount point on the strut. I'll London to a brick that this is your issue.
I'm about two days late for this just happened to me 500km from home. Cable barley holding by a couple of copper wires. Ended up blowing my alternator just at My driveway. Luckily I've got a couple of spare alternators at home.
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You are lucky mate engine fires are nasty.
Tell me about it! Nearly burnt my car down in the garage because I forgot to disconnect the battery when I was working on the starter motor. Made contact with positive and negative, car cranked cooked the battery and the 60 amp main fuse. Smoke was everywhere. The battery terminals glowed bright red. Put them out straight away while my mate disconnected stuff. Had he not been there, car would have burnt down. Burnt the whole wiring loom. Not fun.
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Thanks heaps Markovr! Battery, car wouldn't start then Imfound this post. Stripped the wire back and sure enough it was burnt out!
Ah sweet, thanks for the info. I shall be checking out my car soon then for this issue. I have been having troubles with batteries and electrical stuff so this might be my answer. Mad as, thanks heaps.
just read the first few pages and the last page of this thread and didn't see an answer to the fault. My knowledge of this fault is that the charging line from the alternator to the battery has a shoddy factory set up. I had this fault and pulled the alternator through to the battery apart. found there was no split spring washer on the alternator terminal connection. and the crimping on the wiring was shockingly done. replaced burnt wire with same gauge did a solid crimp on the connections and added a split spring washer. fixed it right up.
Thanks for the heads up, i just checked then haha
I was wondering why I had voltage drop between the Alt and the batt. So had a geez into the black wiring case and found that someone had for reasons unknown had cut and soldered/taped on a smaller wire !
I've removed the entire wire and replaced with 0 gauge. (Might do the big 3)
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